• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권10호
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• pp.179-190
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to apply the three dimensional Replica method to the fabrication of dress forms of plus-sized women to attain proper ease through draping and based on the ease to develop good torso patterns with superior fit. The results were as follows. The physical characteristics of the dress forms of plus-sized women were divided into two: Types I and 11. The proper ease was calculated through draping using dummies of each somatotype and appropriate torso patterns were developed. The differences of the types for each pattern were as follows. The bust girth ease of Type II was 6cm as for Type I. As for the bust breadth 1.0cm was added to the anterior chest width, the armpit width was the actual measurement plus 0.5cm, and the back breadth was the posterior chest width plus 2.5cm. The bust breadth was smaller and the back breadth was bigger that those of Type I after improving the bust and back fit. The bust of Type I protrudes outwards relatively and so the shoulder dart of front-side of Type I was 1.2cm bigger than that of Type II which improved the bust region fit. Considering the characteristics of the protruding abdominal region the front- side waistline of type II was assigned W/4+3.5cm and the back-side waistline W/4cm, so that the sidelines divided the front and back properly. It was drafted so that the center-front became diagonal, thereby improving the middle-hip girth fit.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1073-1081
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• 2006

The development of foundation garment pattern on the typical adult women's body was carried out. By means of the flatted body surface shell, the foundation garment pattern was developed. And its fitting test also performed. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The investigated Foundation basic pattern was made by the allowing the maximum bust size without any surplus since it was based on the tight-fitted model drawing technique. The investigated the completed pattern was designed in three parts of front and back body, including bust. 2. The result showed by overlapping the torso basic pattern foundation and body surface development selected from body almost the same except for the shift of dart position. 3. The result by overlapping basic pattern 3 existing basic patterns. On the basis of top-bust line showed that the setting up the volume of dart of bust and its waist affect the appearance of model. Especially, it was found that the above result was related to the bust and under bust line. 4. The result of the wearing test of 3 existing basic patterns and basic pattern of this study revealed that the mean values of whole items were higher than average in type P and type E. The fitting & position of under-bust line and extent of wrapping bust showed the high points in the current study and type of P. The result of evaluating the whole appearance in three points(front, side, back) showed different according to the every basic foundation garment pattern.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.111-121
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• 2001

본 연구는 중년여성의 상반신을 대상으로 기존원형에 대한 평가를 실시한 후 이를 기본으로 제도법을 수정·보완하여 중년여성 체형에 맞는 상반신 토루소 연구원형을 제작하기 위한 목적으로 연구되었다. 연구 대상은 35세에서 59세의 중년여성으로 하였으며, 45세를 전후로 체형이 변한다는 선행 연구를 토대로 중년 전기(35세∼45세), 중년 후기(46세∼59세)로 나눠 연구하였다. 연구원형 제작을 위해서 97년 국민체위조사보고 자료에 나온 35세∼59세에 해당하는 신체치수를 사용하여 대학에서 교재로 사용되고 있는 4가지 원형을 설계하고 이를 CADsystem을 이용하여 각 Pattern간의 차이를 정확하게 비교하고, 4가지 원형의 실험복을 제작하여 착의 실험을 통해 객관적 평가 11항목, 주관적 평가 23항목에 대해 설문 조사를 하여 문제점을 파악하였다. 이를 기초로 연구원형을 제작하였고 제작 후 연구원형의 신체 적합성을 알아보기 위해 기존원형과 마찬가지로 착의 실험을 하여 평가하였다. 실험 결과 기존원형들이 착용시 진동부분과 뒤중심부분의 당김으로 인해 착용자가 불편함을 느끼는 것으로 나타났고 외관상으로는 가슴둘레와 엉덩이둘레 부분에 여유분량이 중년여성 체형에 비해 상대적으로 적었으며 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선의 위치 역시 중년여성의 체형과는 맞지 않은 것으로 나타났다. 대체로 중년 전기에 비해 중년 후기에서 수정 보완이 더 요구되었는데 특히 나이가 들수록 등이 뒤로 젖혀지는 현상으로 인해 측면에서 봤을 때 허리가 들어가는 현상이 두드러져 뒤 허리부분의 수정이 요구되었다. 이에 연구원형에서는 기존원형에서 나타났던 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선의 위치 조절을 위해 앞목기준선을 위로 2cm 올려 주었고 가슴둘레와 엉덩이둘레 부분에 여유분을 각각 2cm더 주어 제작하였으며 중년 후기에서 두드러지게 나타났던 뒤허리부분의 문제점을 허리중심선 설정시 1∼2cm안쪽으로 설정하여 체형변화를 반영하였다. 이에 따른 연구원형에 대한 주관적·객관적 착의 평가 결과는 착용시 기존원형에서 나타났던 진동부분과 뒤중심부분의 당김이 없어지고 외관상 가슴선, 허리선, 엉덩이선이 기존원형보다 개선된 것으로 나타났으며, 전체적인 외관에서도 전·후기 모두 기존원형 보다 좋은 것으로 평가되었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.892-907
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.804-812
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• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.577-585
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• 2007

This research aimed for 20 latter man whose body shape of torso alters remarkably to develop nipper pattern of running type considered characteristic of body shape of 20 latter man to keep rather balanced body shape against middle age when body shape changes extremely. 1. running type nipper pattern design. Pattern of running, lining and nipper were designed by flattening surface shell. A basis line of running pattern is completed by applying reduction ratio after 3 times of modification & complement based on surface shell. Nipper pattern is designed with design line set by a plaster cast based on running pattern line. Lining pattern is designed with lining design line set by a plaster cast based on running type outside material and nipper pattern. 2. Functional evaluation of research and commercial nipper. Functional inspection through dress test was applied 5point evaluation method and the result of functional inspection on the sight of a wearer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged more 4.8point but commercial nipper averaged less 1.8point in the aspect of 20 items such as wear sensibility, motional function and external appearance aesthetic. Research running type nipper scored high in order of motional function, looks of side, back, front and whole and wear sensibility. Functional inspection in the point of view of an observer is that research nipper(running reduction ratio 15%, nipper reduction ratio 18%) averaged over 4.8point and commercial nipper averaged under 1.9point in 17 items of external appearance beauty. Research running type nipper marked high in order of looks of back, whole, front and side.