• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1011-1019
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• 1998

The natural dyestuff(squid ink) was manufactured from squid ink by boiling in 0.1% NaOH solution and powdering in freeze dryer. Cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics were dyed under several conditions using the manufactured squid ink to investigate the dyeability and color fastness. Dyeing was operated in acidic dyebath of pH 4 because the squid ink is anionic. Dyeabilities on wool, silk and nylon fabrics were good, especially silk fabrics were dyed deeper than others because of being amine group. But dyeability on cotton fabrics was low and developed with chitosan treatment. All the dyed fabrics showed excellent in color fastness to crocking and laundering. Also light fastness of them were excellent except nylon. The light fastness of dyed-nylon fabrics was as poor as grade 1, but they could be improved to grade 4 by aftertreatment with gallicacid. Useing the natural dyestuff-squid ink powder, we could execute whenever we want to dye fabrics in the adequate concentration. Dyeabilities were developed according to repeating times of dyeing and the increased dye concentration. We could recycle the wasting sources.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.51-51
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• 2011

PLA(Poly(lactic acid))는 옥수수, 사탕수수와 같은 천연재료에서 얻어진 젖산(lactic acid or lactide)을 원료로 하여 합성한 생분해성 고분자로서 석유자원의 고갈과 환경오염에 대한 관심이 고조됨에 따라 합성고분자를 대체할 재료로 각광받고 있다. 일반적인 PLA의 장점으로 투명성, 굽힘강성, 방수성, 가열밀봉성 등이 있으며, 단점으로는 열안정성, 내구성, 충격 강도 등이 있다. PLA를 섬유로 사용될 경우 농림 토목용 생분해성 소재 뿐 아니라 실크의 광택과 뛰어난 드레이프성, 감촉을 갖는 장점이 있다. 또한 수분을 신속하게 흡수하여 발산시키는 특성을 가지고 있고, 낮은 연소열과 가스량, 자기 소화성 등의 방염 특성 등을 지녀 의류 인테리어 소재로 매력적인 특성을 가지고 있다. PLA는 바이오고분자 중 비교적 높은 용융온도를 가지고 있지만 특히 염색 및 가공조건 등 고온 처리에 의해 기계적 강도가 저하되는 단점이 있어 내열성 및 기계적 강도의 향상이 필수적이다. 내열성 및 기계적 강도 향상을 위한 가장 손쉬운 방법은 고분자 사슬을 가교시키는 것으로서 열처리 또는 감마선, 전자선, 자외선 조사를 이용할 수 있는데 열에 의한 가교는 균일한 열전달과 고온이 필요하며 감마선 및 전자선 조사는 설비의 고비용과 방사성 노출 위험으로 인해 비친환경적이다. 따라서 다루기 쉽고 비용이 적게 들고 친환경적인 장점을 가진 자외선 조사법을 이용한 PLA의 광가교의 연구가 필요하다. 본 연구의 목적은 PLA 직물의 열안정성과 기계적 특성을 향상시키기 위해 광개시제와 자외선 조사를 이용하여 PLA 직물의 광가교를 수행하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.263-269
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• 2002

This research was conducted to establish the efficient use of the colored rice bran fur dyeing textiles. To investigate the fabric dyeability of the colored rice bran extract, the anthocyanin pigments were extracted with water of different temperature ranges of 40 ~ 8$0^{\circ}C$ and were dyed on silk fabrics with different dyeing temperature $25^{\circ}C$~6$0^{\circ}C$, at acidic pH and neutral pH, respectively. Aluminum chloride was preheated with mordant K/S value and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics were examined. The anthocyanins of the colored rice bran were stable and red color at acidic pH, red purple or purple blue at neutral pH, but unstable, blue color at alkaline pH. If extracting temperature and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution were higher, the dyeability was high, but the color of dyed fabric showed red tone. When extracting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and dyeing temperature of dyeing solution was 6$0^{\circ}C$, the dyeability was best. Without mordant, the dyeability of silk fabrics was higher in acidic pH than in neutral pH solution. With mordant, the dyeability was higher than without mordant, and also higher in acidic pH. Pretreatment of aluminum chloride resulted in the increase of color intensity and stability. The laundering fastness of dyed fabrics was good from grade 5 to grade 3-4. Because of the anthocyanins sensitivity on light radiation, the light fastness of dyed fabrics was poor from grade 3 to grade 1-2.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.337-343
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimal dyeing conditions and human-friendly properties of the extract from the branches of Alnus firma tree which is widely used for forestation and to provide basic information for quantification and commercialization of natural dyeing by discovering such as dye material. The optimal dyeing conditions, as a result, were shown at 100% of dye concentration, $90^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature and 40 minutes of dyeing time. In terms of dye uptake depending on the mordanting methods, it showed the best result in order of Fe, Sn, Cu and Al at pre-mordanting while found strong in order of Fe, Cu, Al and Sn at post-mordanting. Color fastness to washing and dry cleaning was found strong at grade 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at 2. The grade of change in color to rubbing and perspiration was good at 4-5. In aspects of functional properties, it showed excellent results of 98% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 96.1% UV protection rate and 99.9% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneuminiae. It is considered, therefore, the extract from Alnus firma tree is of great value as an eco-friendly natural dyestuff.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2019

In this study, the dyeing properties and functionalities of Crataegi fructus extract were investigated for the purpose of application to new natural dye resources. The effects of dyeing conditions(concentration of dye, dye bath temperature, dyeing duration and dye bath pH) and mordanting on dye uptake and color changes were also examined. The study also estimated the colorfastness, antibacterial properties, and ultraviolet protection properties of the dyed and mordanted silk fabrics. The dye uptake increased in tandem with the dye concentration and dye bath temperature. The highest K/S values were obtained at the following conditions: a dye concentration of 100%(v/v), a dyeing period of 60 minutes, a dye bath temperature of $90^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing pH of 3. The colorfastness of the material when dry cleaned or rubbed ranged from good to excellent and fastness to light was rated at grade 2-3. The change in the color grade when exposed to washing was not good; however, the stain of washing fastness was good at a range of 4-5. In regards to the functional property aspects, the dyed and mordanted fabrics exhibited excellent results with a 99.9% reduction rate, and excellent ultraviolet protection factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1051-1059
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• 1997

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing: on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics dyed with the extract from Turmeric. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absorption band of Turmeric extract were 400 nm respectively and the wavelengths were 440 nm after the mordants were added in the color extract. The bands of Turmeric extract shifted to long wave length side as pH increased. In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased as pH increased. 2. The main color substance in extract from Turmeric were expected to be curcumin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20 g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5∼10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by premordanting and synmordanting had influenced upon K/S valse. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Turmeric extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perspiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained.