• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.6
• /
• pp.53-64
• /
• 2004

North Korea's traditional dress(chosun-ot) has developed as follows: right after the liberation(l945). North Korea tried to get rid of Japanese style and empty formalities and vanity, so chosun-ot became simple and practical. And from the Korean war to 1950's North Korea had tried to establish through a restoration of the war and chosun-ot is more easy and simple. For 1960's People became to be interested in their clothes owing to a stable socialistic economy and politics, and tried new style due to the influence of the Korea-Japanese. Since 1972 North Korea has claimed a dictational socialist organization, and constructed its own culture. Therefore North Korea emphasized its own clothing habit. and its garment style developed differently from South Korea. Since 1984 North Korea tried to change its policy dramatically. and chosun-ot has changed to a modern and various style. But on the other hand, traditional style of chosun-ot was more emphasized. North Korea especially tried to succeed its traditional style. it pursued only partial changes by sticking to its original style. And its color to bright and magnificent one with additional ornaments. Because it tried to change the style within the limits of its tradition, traditional dress has a quite fragmentary and flat appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.1 s.149
• /
• pp.106-114
• /
• 2006

This research aims to identify the recent changes in construction, design, and technical vocabularies between North and South Korea of the Korean woman's top(Jeogori), which is a main part of her traditional costume(Hanbok). After Korea War, Korea was divided into two countries(the division), and there was little communication between the two until 1972(the interexchange). Thus, this study will compare two time periods: 1953-1972 and 1972 to recent times. Hanbok construction books published in both Koreas are evaluated here to see what similarities and differences existed during these two periods. Women in the North continued to wear their traditional costume(renamed the Chosunot in the North) as daily clothing, but women in the South began saving the Hanbok only for parties and ceremonies. As the North Korean government controlled its peoples dress and continued to make changes, the North kept developing new technical vocabularies, but the South continued to use the same terms fur the Hanbok. From the end of the 1990s, the Chosunot had become more and more similar to the Hanbok in colors, shapes, and materials.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.49-49
• /
• 2003

단령은 둥근 깃이라는 뜻으로 군신(君臣)이 착용한 관복명의 의미를 가지고 있다. 단령은 검박(儉朴)하고 활동적인 옷의 형태로 AD 1세기 경 서아시아 일대의 기마 유목민족에게 발생되었고 중국에서는 호복(胡服)이라고 불렀으며 4 세기 초부터 17세기까지 군신(君臣)의 관복으로부터 일반인의 생활복에 이르기까지 여러 계층에서 착용되었다. 우리나라에서는 신라 28대 진덕여왕 2년(AD 648년)에 김춘추가 당(唐)나라 태종에게 단령을 하사 받음으로 착용하기 시작하였고 고려시대 조선시대에는 주로 관복(官服)으로 계속 착용하였고 현재에는 혼례 예복으로 착용하고 있다. 이와 같이 오랜 기간 동안 착용되어 온 단령은 봉재와 구성면에서 깃의 너비나 형태 앞 뒤 길이 차이 소매의 너비무의 변화 등 구성과 여러가지 면에서 변화를 거쳐 왔다. 단령의 구조는 깃이 둥근 형태에 옆 목점에서 매듭단추나 끈으로 여미며 길이가 길다. 따라서 15-16세기의 전단후장형 단령과 현재 혼례시 신랑 예복으로 착용되는 후기의 단령을 비교하여 구성의 차이점을 알아보도록 한다.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.52 no.1
• /
• pp.120-147
• /
• 2019

In this study, we divided the portraits in the reign of King Seonjo into those which were created before and after the Japanese invasion. We then examined various aspect of costumes expressed in the portraits of meritorious vassals. To analyze official uniforms (Heuk-Danryeung), we examined the Samo height; the side wings' type and pattern; the Danryeung pattern; the Mu style; the processing method of lateral lines in Danryeung the rank badge and rank belt, the color of Dabho and Cheolrik, which were undergarment of Danryeung and Heuk-wa. The meritorious vassals' portraits, prior to Imran, were analyzed with a portrait of Han Eung-in, a Gwang-kuk Pyeong-nan meritorious vassals. The Samo was the highest of the Choson dynasties, and the cloud and treasure pattern was identified on the side wings. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue(acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a large outward wrinkled Mu, and it had a wild goose badge (second rank) and a Sabgeumdae. It did not coincide with the Pumgye(Jaheondaebu) recorded in Gugjo-inmulgo. Reddish Dabho for Dangsang-kwan, green Cheolrik which was undergarment of Danryeung, and Heuk-wa. were identified. After the invasion of Japan, portraits of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals were analyzed through eighteen portraits, including Lee Hyeon-bok. After the invasion of the Japanese, the height of the Samo's top was much lower and the width of the side wings was wider than before the invasion of Japanese. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue (acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a stretching backward Mu. Rank badge and rank belts were almost identical with the record, but there were two exceptions (Sin-jab and Kim, Sae-sin). Therefore, it was reaffirmed that the meritorious vassals' portraits were drawn by the Pumgye at the time of appointment. Among the undergarments of Heuk-Danryeung, green Dabho(11), blue Dabho(4), reddish Dabho(3), and blue Cheolrik(10), green Cheolrik(6), reddish Cheolrik(1), and yucheongsaeg Cheolrik(1) were identified, However, it is suggested that the Dabho of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals should be the reddish Dabho of Dangsang-kwan, which is the same as the previous Imran, and a green Cheolrik.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
• /
• v.96
• /
• pp.209-223
• /
• 2019

The Iron Seated Buddha sculpture in the National Museum of Korea had long sat unregistered in storage at the museum. However, a new accession number "bon9976" has recently been assigned to it. This sculpture was excavated from the neighborhood of Heungnyongsa Temple in Baekun-ri, Yidong-myeon, Pocheon-gun, Gyeonggi-do Province together with another Iron Seated Buddha sculpture(bon9975) called "Iron Buddha from Pocheon." A comparison and examination of Gelatin Dry Plate and official documents from the Joseon Government-General Museum during the Japanese occupation period have revealed that these two Iron Buddha sculptures were transferred to the Museum of the Government-General of Korea on December 17, 1925. The Iron Seated Buddha sculpture(bon9976) has a height of 105 centimeters, width at the shoulders of 57 centimeters, and width at the knee of 77 centimeters. The Buddha is wearing a robe with rippling drapery folds and the right shoulder exposed. He is seated in the position called gilsangjwa(the seat of good fortune) in which the left foot is placed over the right thigh. The features of the Buddha's oval face are prominently sculpted. The voluminous cheeks, eye sockets in a large oval shape, slanted eyes, short nose, and plump lips can also be found in other ninth-century Iron Seated Buddha sculptures at Silsangsa Temple in Namwon, Jeollanam-do Province, Hancheonsa Temple in Yecheon, Gyeongsangbuk-do Province, and Samhwasa Temple in Donghae-si, Gangwon-do Province. Moreover, its crossed legs, robe exposing the right shoulder, and rippling drapery folds suggest that this sculpture might have been modeled after the main Buddha sculpture of the Seokguram Grotto from the eighth century. The identity of this Iron Seated Buddha can be determined using the Gelatin Dry Plate(M442-2, M442-7). In them, the Buddha has its right palm facing upwards and holds a medicine jar on its left palm. Until now, the Iron Seated Bhaiṣajyagura(Medicine) Buddha(bon1970) excavated from Wonju has been considered the sole example of an iron Medicine Buddha sculpture. However, this newly registered Iron Seated Buddha turns out to be a Medicine Buddha holding a medicine jar. Furthermore, it serves as valuable material since traces of gilding and lacquering clearly remain on its surface. This Iron Seated Buddha sculpture (bon9976) is presumed to have been produced around the ninth century under the influence of Esoteric Buddhism by the Monk Doseon(827~898), a disciple of the Monk Hyecheol, to protect the temple and help the country overcome geographical shortcomings. According to the records stored at Naewonsa Temple(later Heungnyongsa Temple), Doseon selected three significant sites, including Baegunsan Mountain, built "protector" temples, created the Bhaisajyagura Buddha triad, and enshrined them at the temples. Moreover, the inscription on the stele on the restoration of Seonamsa Temple states that Doseon constructed temples and produced iron Buddha sculptures to help the country surmount certain geographical shortcomings. Heungnyongsa Temple is located in Dopyeong-ri, Yidong-myeon, Pocheon-si, Gyeonggi-do Province. This region appears to have been related to rituals directed to the Medicine Buddha since Yaksa Temple(literally, "the temple of medicine") was built here during the Goryeo Dynasty, and the Yaksa Temple site with its three-story stone pagoda and Yaksadong Valley still exist in Dopyeong-ri.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.49-55
• /
• 2000

The Yellow-Sand phenomena occurred during the period from l0C to 14C in Korea have been investigated using the historical record of the Koryosa. It is written as the "dust rain"or "mud" which means the falling down of dust from the sky. The authors have extracted 50 historical writings of dust rain from the Koryosa. The results show that the observation records concerning Yellow-Sand phenomenon for the period of Korea Dynasty (918~1392) are described with the scientific accuracy for the Yellow-Sand phenomena as the pure dust phenomena, the mixture of Yellow Sand with snow or rain, and the Yellow-Sand associated with fog or hail, etc. It is also found that the occurrence of Yellow-Sand phenomena was the incomprehensible natural phenomena such as Yellow-Sand were interpreted as a warning from the Heaven to the king and people of their fail in moral principles.in moral principles.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.231-240
• /
• 2003

As all other cultures do, in the background of color of costume, view of life or spirit are contained in the nature or environment that the people lived in are applied. Marring is the ceremony to be socially recognized that both of sexes are unified, assist ancestor and bear future generation. Meaning and symbolism of color are appeared in beauty and organic composition of Lee dynasty. This paper tried to dear up five colors are dean, beautiful and philosophical colors rather than awkward composition of colors through surveying character of five colors appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress that has been succeeded in present age. This paper compared Korean traditional wedding dress and "Dan-chung" of Korea, Japan and China and surveyed theoretical background of Korean traditional color to find character of color appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress. As a result, Korean traditional color is meaningful symbolic color, its origin starts in yin-yang and the live elements of the Oriental cosmogony and it is related with Taoism of Confucianism and color of "Dan-chung." Five colors of yin-yang means everything under the sun and il is the color achieving beauty of balance due to correlation when it is linked to over one color. Further, it contains nature worship and human dignity, prays happiness and gives the significance of "Buksa", meaning of expelling an evil spirit. Formative beauty praying that all creatures are harmonized while human is happy and escapes from uncertainty is the beauty pursuing mental satisfaction as well as visual satisfaction. In future, the creational and characteristic designs that can appeal to world are required through right understanding and study of the beauty of traditional culture beauty of traditional culture

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.52 no.4
• /
• pp.246-263
• /
• 2019

The stone Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple at Bukhansan in Goyang, Gyeonggi Province, is an excellent example of stone Buddha statues created in the late 15th century. On the base of the figure, there is an inscription, which informs that it was produced in 1497. In recognition of this significance, it was recently designated as a tangible cultural asset in Gyeonggi-do. Thus, this paper tried to evaluate the value of the statue by analyzing iconography and style. The characteristics of a typical 15th-century style that the Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple shows are the form of ushnisha, the way clothes are worn, the form of a w-shaped chest muscle, and the simple lotus pedestal. On the other hand, the elongation of the waist and the disappearance of the waistband on undergarments are new forms of Buddha statues in the 16th century. Besides, parting the hair in the middle of the head and leaf-shaped short ribbon draped on undergarments are unique features that only appear on the statue of Sangunsa Temple. Sangunsa has been known to be built in the early 18th century based on Bukanji compiled by Seongneung in 1745, and Bongeunbonmalsaji composed in 1943. However, the statue was created in the late 15th century, before the establishment of the temple in the early 18th century. Therefore, this paper briefly reviewed the history of Sangunsa Temple, focusing on the initial period, referring to the historical sites and the relics that were passed on to the temple, as well as the literature records. The data newly referred to in the study are as follows: Sangunsa Stone Pagoda, presumed to be from the Goryeo Dynasty; the Stone Buddha Statue of Sangunsa; Wooden Amita Triad Buddha Statue of Sangunsa. According to the data and contrary to previously-held beliefs, Sangunsa Temple is believed to have been operating since the Goryeo Dynasty. It can be inferred through analysis of the stone Buddha statue of Sangunsa Temple that the size of the Temple before the 18th century was not very large.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.53 no.2
• /
• pp.180-203
• /
• 2020

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.47 no.1
• /
• pp.134-151
• /
• 2014

This paper deals with a review of the structure and production techniques of the Dried-lacquer Amitabha Buddha statue enshrined in Geungnakjeon Hall of Simhyangsa Temple, located in Daeho-dong, Naju-si, Jeollanam-do, Korea. To achieve this goal, X-ray date and two rounds of field research were performed. The data collected were reviewed, and a sample peeled off from the damaged part was analyzed to investigate the structure and material of the background layer. The results revealed that the Simhyangsa Temple Buddha statue was an almost empty Dried-lacquer(Hyeopjeo) Buddha statue where wood core had not been framed and inserted in the statue. It was thus observed that considering that the clothes wrinkles clearly remained, the same one as the irregularity of the outer clothes wrinkles, the Dried-lacquer layer was lifted made in an almost complete shape in the process of forming the clay figure as the origin form. The statue was found to be diagonally incised from the top of the head to the back of the neck to remove the clay and wood core. But in other sites, no incision was confirmed. It was observed that on the site of the head where the incision was made, an adhesives(lacquer or paste) was used. In addition, the black eyes were impacted with beads and the ears, hands, bands, and knots were made of wood. These features are identically shown in the Dried-lacquer Amitabha Buddha statue from Seonguksa Temple, known as a work of the late Goryeo dynasty; the Seated Dried-lacquer Buddha statue in Okura Museum of Art in Tokyo, Japan; the Seated Dried-lacquer Amitabha Buddha statue from Jungnimsa Temple, know as a work of the early Joseon dynasty; and the Seated Vairocana Buddha statue in Bulhoesa Temple, the Seated Dried-lacquer Amitabha Buddha and the Seated Dried-lacquer Buddha statue from Silsangsa Temple. The analysis of the back layer demonstrated that the ground layer and the red lacquer were the production of the time. In particular, the bone ash used for the ground layer was also coated for the ground layer of Buddha statues as well as for the production of the lacquerware during the Goryeo dynasty. It was also found that gold mending was conducted more than twice even in modern times and that the layer of the production time was well preserved despite gold mending several times.