• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.44-63
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• 2017

'Bukpo' is called 'Tongpo' or 'Balnaepo,' which respectively mean hemp fabric that goes into a small bamboo tube and women's table utensil 'bari' in Chosen. It is fine hemp fabric produced in Yukjin, Hamgyeong province. Korea has been divided into North and South since the Korean War in 1950. As it is hard to get information about Northern life style or their traditional technology, their hemp fabric production is also left unknown. This study demonstrates characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' through "Ojuyeonmunjangjeonsango", the only document that marked about 'Bukpo' making process of the late Chosen dynasty. It aims to analyze the transition of the technique and the meaning by comparing the characteristics of the production of 'Bukpo' with the modern era's documents. In this process, I discovered that the hemp fabric production technique at 19th century shares some sort of similarities with that of Europe or Chinese Miao(hmong). But the hemp fabric production technique changed before the 20th century. The evolution of Northern hemp fabric production technique can be a good example to examine the context of the traditional craft technique.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.170-183
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• 2019

Fiber scutching refers to the process of extracting fibers from plants by separating or extracting fibers from the raw materials. As the definition of the term implies, the "Fiber Scutching" is performed on plants with advanced bast fiber as the primary material processing technique performed on plant materials. Some of the most popular phosphorus plants are ramie, hemp, flax, and the paper mulberry, which have a long history of cultivation and a wide range of distribution, making them very universal as a material supporting human life and culture. This study was described in Oju-yeonmunjangjeon-sango but was designed to re-examine the method of breaking dried stalks, which is currently unused in Korea, to examine the feasibility and characteristics of the technology. As a result of sampling and experimenting with hemp bast using the method recorded in the literature, hemp fiber was actually produced. The criteria for removing the shell from the hemp stem were the degree of discoloration and drying, and only when the stalk was completely discolored to yellow could segregation of the stalk from the shell be performed. The amount of sunlight and temperature were conditions that accelerated drying. However, if exposed for a long time, it is confirmed that hemp bast will be in a suitable condition to process, regardless of the amount of sunlight and temperature. 'Breaking of dried stalks', which utilizes the physical power of 'threshing with a flail' is considered a core process of the fiber scutching technique in 'Yukjin' in Hamgyeong-do. The bark and the core of the hemp were separated by tapping, the bast was thinly split, and the shell was peeled off, making it suitable for collecting with thread. The method of collecting the fibers by applying physical power causes downing on the fibers, which is to be generally avoided in the manufacture of bast fabric woven hemp or ramie. However, Hamgyeong-do's fiber scutching method seems to have applied this principle to the method of making fragile fabrics by using it in reverse. This method is distinct from the steaming or boiling of the stalks' in Andong, Korea, and it is similar to the Western method of spinning fabrics.