• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.18-33
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• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.929-939
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• 2015

Zero-waste is sustainable development for ensuring continuous interactions with the environment as well as for the next generations, while expanding across industries. Zero-waste fashion design does not necessarily mean that we should stop making clothes in order to reduce waste, but we consider the social values of sustainability regarding the environment, humans, and profit. In particular, in the pre-use stage of zero-waste fashion design, fashion designers play critical roles. The purpose of this study is to develop a methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design through establishing the typology of zero-waste pattern making (ZWPM) as well as exploring the practical implications of zero-waste fashion design. For the realization of zero-waste fashion design that draws from pattern-making principals, this study categorizes zero-waste fashion design into zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) and non-pattern cutting (NPC). ZWPC is based on drafting patterns on a piece of fabric, which can enable the sharing of patterns and processes, while NPC requires little- or non-cutting/sewing in optimizing a piece of fabric, bringing the possibility of creating indefinite forms. ZWPC is sub-categorized into tailored and non-tailored, and NCP into draped and folded. Then, by implementing the typology in undergraduate design programs, this study tests and completes the design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권5호
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• pp.969-983
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• 2020

Zero waste fashion design to minimize the 15% fabric waste generated during production can be difficult to industrialize instead of having strong originality. This study designed shirts that are practical and reflect trends using the zero waste pattern cutting method and suggest the possibilities for industrial production. The content of the study are as follows. First, the pattern cutting method of zero waste fashion design was studied. Second, the recent trends of shirt design were analyzed and reflected in the design development. Third, 4 zero waste shirt designs were developed and produced by applying the geometric cutting, puzzle cutting, and minimal cutting methods. As for the research method, literature research was conducted on related references; in addition, design development and production were conducted empirically. As a result, the developed zero waste shirts are practical and trendy. In addition, the results of the study are meaningful to provide basic data for the commercialization and industrial application of zero waste fashion design.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.199-212
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• 2015

Environmentally-friendly whole-cut designs can minimize carbon dioxide emissions which are harmful to the earth, and reduce energy, labor force and time in cutting or sewing clothes. The design and way of wearing clothing will be investigated by classifying whole-cut clothing appearing in the history of costume and past traditional outfits such as Drapery, a Pancho, Tunic, or Loincloth. According to the results from the analysis of whole-cut methods applied in design, they were classified as follows: whole-cut, utilizing square-panels as is, pleats, smoking, lip band, origami, cutting way, and subtraction-cutting whole-cut design. The whole-cut design utilizing square panel as it is can minimize the waste of energy and material but can also maximize the possibility of circulation by recycling. In utilizing an all square panel, it broke away from the existing whole-cut in the western pattern, namely, the pattern of clothes clinging to the body, and was found to have new aesthetic value with a new approach. Due to the whole-cut method having a restriction in the use of dart and line cutting in its designing process, there were only designs that did not show the body line, such as designs clinging to the body. Therefore we developed a design similar to those that cling to the body by whole-cut, In addition, the work produced was with high efficiency and variability, which produces simple designs but can be worn in a variety of ways.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.59-76
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• 2023

The COVID-19 pandemic has brought about environmental severity and new social, economic, and cultural changes. Conscious fashion, which is oriented to sustainable and valuable consumption, has become a trend to consume products produced using eco-friendly and ethical processes, from the selection of the product materials to the manufacturing process. The purpose of this study is to identify the concepts and characteristics of conscious fashion and zero waste, and to explore design trends of zero wastein the new normal era of conscious fashion through the analysis of various cases. The research method is a literature review on conscious fashion based on relevant professional and academic books and articles, designer collections, and campaigns from 2010 to the present, when conscious fashion as eco-friendliness and sustainable fashion became a trend. The concept and characteristics of conscious fashion were examined them in terms of environmental, ethical, social, and cultural aspects and the concept and characteristics of zero waste through previous studies and case analysis. Through this, the trends of zero-waste design in conscious fashion were categorized into: first, an eco-friendly design orientation that utilizes reuse and reduce methods of clothing and fabric; second, a variable design orientation that practices zero waste designs by using diversity of patterns through deconstruction, disassembly, and various cutting methods. Third, long-term circulation of design through the recycling of resources by second-hand trade, the utilization of stock clothing, resale, and availability of eco-friendly materials through the development of new technologies. As an active practice for the sustainable fashion industry expands, it is expected that continuous research will be conducted as a future core value to realize the possibility of long-term circular zero-waste design through social responsibility and conscious recycling, reuse, and reproduction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.513-528
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to understand the concept of zero-waste design and to apply Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques to develop a zero-waste fashion design method that contributes to sustainable fashion design. In this study, we explore the method and characteristics of zero-waste fashion design based on the concept of folding described in Sophia Vyzoviti's book on folding techniques. Using the autonomy of Sophia Vyzoviti's folding technique, four changeable folding fashion designs were developed and produced, demonstrating zero-waste fashion design. The results were as follows. First, the development of fashion designs using Sophia Vyzoviti's folding techniques enabled the development and production of free and creative zero-waste fashion designs that were three-dimensional, continuous, fluid, and full of potential. Second, the production of zero-waste patterns was further developed into a transformable fashion design that can be used with geometric patterns. These folding techniques produced a fashion design method that could transform one piece of clothing, demonstration the potential for maintenance of creativity using a zero-waste design based on these folding techniques. Third, the double-faced fabric, Neoprene, was chosen as an appropriate material as it emphasizes the depth of folding with application of two colors and its cotton/polyester blend that is suitable for folding.

• 복식
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• 제65권4호
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• pp.91-108
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• 2015

As a solution to the wasteful consumption of resources in fashion design, this research aims to develop a process guideline for ZWF Design Methods from an educational perspective. After selecting the Jigsaw Puzzle, Subtraction Cutting, and Layer Methods as representative ZWF Methods, an application experiment was designed to deduct each Method's process, characteristics, needs, and improvement points. Its results were analyzed through action protocol analysis, expert evaluation, and qualitative analysis. Based on the analysis, this research proposed a ZWF guideline and a step-by-step guide suitable to the students' needs. By following the guideline, students can use the chosen ZWF Method to create a planned or an accidental design. In addition, they can practice ZWF effectively step by step in the order of Layer, Jigsaw Puzzle, and Subtraction Cutting. Thus, this research can provide the basis for ZWF education, which can lead to expanded application of ZWF in the future and reduce textile waste.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.125-139
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• 2020

The fashion industry that perceived the severity of environmental pollution, has sought various methods of sustainable fashion. However, most of the businesses paid attention to the development of materials using industrial waste, or vegan material. Thus, this study aims to present the methods for improvement in creativity for inversely developing the design from patterns and present new approaches by applying the contrarian development of proto to class under the limited condition of material concerning general design, selection of material, and production of sample. In the case of three student teams enrolled in the first semester of the second year, the fabric and used clothing donated by industry were used as material. The whole cut for cutting a single fabric in connected state, and Zero Wastes Design within a rectangular frame of fabric, upcycling of used clothes, and cutting out of Geometric Form are suggested. The team(A) produced a zero-wastes coat and whole-cut Pancho that could be variously represented. The team(B) produced two kinds of asymmetric dress by utilizing used check-patterned shirts through upcycling. The team(C) utilized the fabric in geometric forms such as rectangle, trapezoid, and atypical figure by drawing design within donated fabrics. The items were a dress, blouse, and skirt. Consequently, an opportunity for both academia and industry to present more concrete methods for sustainable fashion and deeply perceive the sustainable fashion is presented along with novel methods for creation by carrying out the composition of pattern and design at the same time.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.140-156
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to review and establish the three concepts of upcycling, zero-waste fashion design, and regional sustainability through a review of domestic and international case studies. Furthermore, it will provide the theoretical basis for using upcycling as a regional sustainability practice to create zero-waste fashion design. To conduct an empirical study, we systematized the stages of the survey on waste resources in Changsin-dong, the sourcing and utilization of waste resources, the design-planning stage, and the co-production with pattern and sewing masters as a suggested practice for regional sustainability. Through this study, we propose the possibility of regional sustainability by developing and sharing the method of zero-waste fashion design. The conclusion of the study as follows: First, upcycling fashion designs can be extended to a regional sustainability practice by taking the characteristics of social design into account. Second, by providing a design development process and methodology suitable for regional sustainability application, it is helpful to revitalize regional upcycling fashion brands and communities by providing data for upcycled fashion branding. Third, as part of the revitalization project for the Chang-shin and Soongin areas that started in 2014, using the region's economic, cultural, and environmental characteristics to make and sell high-value, upcycled fashion products will contribute to social and economic achievements and aid in solving regional problems.