• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.45 no.4
• /
• pp.104-113
• /
• 2012

Traditional weaving crafts has the history, environment and lifestyle of country where the country is located. Thus it has been an regional industry because it has the representation of country due to a long history. However it has faced a threat which comes from lifestyle changes. Therefore a law on the protection of traditional weaving crafts was established and took action to protect weaving crafts. It was played importantly as protection system on weaving crafts. But traditional weaving crafts was a regional industry from long time ago, accordingly we need to think as not only cultural heritage but also crafts industry. This study will demonstrate how sustainable as designated cultural heritage and traditional crafts industry with case of Ojiya-chijimi and Echigo-jofu (Japanese traditional weaving crafts).

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.20 no.1 s.69
• /
• pp.229-242
• /
• 2007

In Japan, a country renowned for her traditional respect for handicraft, superior craft techniques have been transmitted from generation to generation. Modern Japanese textiles reinterprete these traditional techniques in a new light and combine them with modern technology, to make modern Japanese industrial textile both futuristic and traditional simultaneously. This combining of new technology and handicraft serves as a reservoir for a remarkable diversity and originality in the development of new technology and design, and constitutes an important trend in modern industrial textiles. The aim of this study is to investigate the developmental background of Japanese textile industry that championed this trend to make the Japanese development unique in modern textile industries and to consider the concept of modern textiles as well as the structural innovation as represented by this new trend, thus contributing to the development of creative textiles for the present and the future. The findings of this study can be summarized as follows. The combining of new technology and traditional handicraft: 1) was made possible by Japanese consciousness that values traditional culture and by early recognition of advanced textile industry, which awarded new meaning and value to the traditional handicraft leading to an expanded social role for textiles. 2) helped construct a modern concept of textiles by pursuing textile media that are state-of-the-art, aesthetic, and highly sensitive to satisfy the requirements of modern industrial textile such as high quality, high performance, and high sensitivity. 3) enabled new design ideas and creation of new styles by implementing structural innovation in industrial textiles that involved diversification of expression, diversity in materials, and emphasis on texture. In short, by combining new technology and traditional handicraft, Japan came up with a new sense of aesthetics that is highly original and high level and with which the rest of the world can easily sympathize, thereby presenting one of the most important guiding principles for future textiles.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.28 no.4
• /
• pp.321-328
• /
• 2012

A $SO_2$ gas acceleration test was carried out on four textile groups (silk, cotton, ramie cloth, hemp cloth) which were categoried in five categories by the dyeing materials (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black) and the relation between the concentration of $SO_2$ and deterioration rate was evaluated. The textiles were exposed to 0.01, 0.12, 1, 10, 100, 1000, and 5000 ppm of $SO_2$ for 24 hours and the optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates were studied. An optical change was identified as the color difference and grey scale rating (colorfastness) enhanced with the increase of gas concentration while there was little physical change. Chemical damage was caused by the acidification of the textile material due to the trapped sulfate ion concentration. The result of optical, physical, and chemical deterioration rates shows that 1 ppm/day $SO_2$ is a critical level of deterioration of traditional textiles.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.29 no.3
• /
• pp.197-207
• /
• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.45
• /
• pp.5-16
• /
• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 Navajo 직물의 역사적 발달을 고전시대를 중심으로 살펴보고 특히 외부영향에 따른 직물의 변화를 고찰하는데 있다. 구체적으로 1) 고전시대의 전통적인 직물은 어떻게 발달하였는가\ulcorner 2) 고전시대 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향요인은 어떤 점이 다른가\ulcorner 예 초점을 맞추었다. 연구방법은 아메리카 인디언의 이동,문화 Navajo 직조 및 직물에 대한 문헌을 바탕을 조사하였고 아리조나 주립박물과 아리조나 역사 박물관을 방문하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또 비교 미학적 차원에서 고전시대 navajo 직물의 전통적 요소와 외부영향 요인을 분석하였고 외부영향을 받은 직물의 예를 시각적자료로 제시하였다. 이연구는 인디언직물에 대한 이해, 고전시대. Navajo 직물의 문헌고찰을 통한 민족의복의 문화적측면에 기여할수 이고 현대적 감각을 지닌 Navajo 직물을 한국직물에 접목 응용하는데 도움을 줄수 있다 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. Navajo 직물을 고전, 전환, 양탄자 시대로 구분되었고. 이중에서 고전시대가 navajo 직물의 특성을 가장 잘 나타내었으며 발달된 직조기술을 보였다. Navajo인들의 직조기술은 1863년경 최고조에 달했다. Navajo 직물의 디자인 주제로 주로 인간을 둘러싸고 있는 환경에서 얻어졌고 이것들은 직선의 기하학적 형태로 구체화되었다. 또한 직물에 표현된 색도 자연과 밀접한 관련성을 갖는 있었다. 2. Navajo 직물의 주용한 용도는 여성용 드레스, 남성용 셔츠는 어깨에 걸치는 두르개였다. 여성용 드레스는 동일한 크기의 직물의 두장을 직조한 후에 꿰매었고 남성용 셔츠는 머리가 들어갈수 있는 구멍이 있는 장방형 판쵸 스타일이었다. 어깨에 걸치는 두르개는 여성의 경우 가운데가 검은색이고 가장자리가 푸른색인형태오 흰색과 붉은 색이 교대로 나타나는 형태의 2가지가 있었고 남성용은 고전시대의 대표라고 일컬어지는 족장 두르개였다. 3. Navajo 직물은 외부의 영향을 받아 많은 변화를 가져왔다. 즉 스페인 사람들로 인하여 면 섬유대신 양모섬유를 사용하게 되었고 전통적 모양과 다른직물이 출현하게 되었다. 또한 인디고 염류, 색소니 실, 바에타 직물의 도입으로 다양한 색상의 표현이 가능해졌고 이와 관련하여 다이아몬드 십자형 톱니형 무늬드이 나타나게 되었다. 4, 고전시대를 대표하는 직물로 족장 두르개, 쇼올, 안장덮개를 들수 있으며 이 직물들에서 뚜렷하게 외부영향 요인을볼수 있다. 즉 족장 두르개의 가장 정교한 단계에서 다이아몬드 무늬가 가장가리 가운데 모서리에 위치하여 9지점 배치를 이룬 것 쇼올의 경우 폭보다 길이가 긴 형태의 비전통적 모습을 나타낸 것 안장덮개에서 보여지는 여덟포인트 별 무늬도 외부의 영향을 받은예이다. 뛰어난 직조기술로 유명한 navajo인들은 변화에 잘 적응하는 특성을 갖고 있었다. 외부의 영향을 그들은 긍정적으로 받아들였고 자기 자신들의 필요에 맞도록 수정하여 정체감을 잃지 않으면서도 문화를 발전시켰다. 따라서 고전시대의 Navajo 직물은 고유적 요인과 외래적 요인의 조화를잘 나타내고 있으며 디자인의 탁월함이 세련됨 천연염료와 인조염료의 배\ulcorner에 의한 색상의 우월성 등으로 오늘까지 높이 평가되고있다.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.353-364
• /
• 2014

Formaldehyde(HCHO) may have a damage effect on Korean traditional textiles, because concentration is high and occurrence frequency is frequent at the exhibition room and storage area. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to HCHO gas in the test chamber. The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles according to HCHO concentration(0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm), to temperature-humidity condition at HCHO 500ppm, and deterioration conditions at HCHO 500ppm. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. The results, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased at 500ppm, while pH decreased at 500ppm. Also, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased double damage at high temperatures & humidity, high humidity condition. But, damages of accelerated degradation textiles were slight, because of degradation degree and degradation products. The results suggest that determined the damage to the korean traditional textile, damage level, damage-weighted condition, damage to accelerated degradation textiles. In addition, formaldehyde damaged to yellowing of red textiles, bleaching of accelerated degradation textiles, formic acid damaged to bleaching of total 20 specimens.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.321-331
• /
• 2016

Textiles damage caused by acetaldehyde($CH_3CHO$) is not clear as compared to other materials. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyed with 4 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to $CH_3CHO$ gas in the test chamber. First, textile specimens' damage by differert concentration of acetaldehyde(0.1, 0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500, 1000 ppm) was tested. Second, accelerared damage to the textile specimens were tested according to the temperature and humidity conditions at the damage levels. Third, damage of deliberately degraded textile specimens were examined at the damage levels. After the exposure, optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out. As a result, at 1000 ppm/day, the color difference of cotton_yellow has increased. At the condition of $25^{\circ}C-80%$, $30^{\circ}C-50%$, $30^{\circ}C-80%$, the color difference of yellow specimens has increased and grey scale rating has decreased. At $30^{\circ}C-80%$, acetate of cotton_undyed increased and the pH of silk_undyed decreased. In the case of deliberately degraded textile specimens, actetate concentration of black specimens increased. In conclusion, damage to the traditional fabric by acetaldehyde is not impact. However, it is expected that yellow specimens will be bleach and black specimens' actetate concentration will be increase.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.99-111
• /
• 2007

In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.24
• /
• pp.67-74
• /
• 2008

The objective of this study was to investigate stability of traditional starch sizes according to time. The properties of wheat flour and fermented whole-wheat flour were studied. And comparison of stiffness, tensile strength, air permeability, whiteness, and surface observation of cotton fabrics sized with wheat flour and fermented whole-wheat flour before and after 12-years were examined. The amylograph data indicated that ISF-W(Isolated starch flour- white) have good pasting properties than NWF(Natural wheat flour) and ISF-B(Isolated starch flour- light brown). The cotton fabrics sized with ISF-W had higher tensile strength and whiteness, and lower stiffness and air permeability than those of NWF as the time takes 12 years. We identified the stability of traditional starch size using scanning electronic micrograph.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 2009.05a
• /
• pp.223-226
• /
• 2009

최근 의생활에 있어서 가장 큰 변화는 쾌적성의 추구와 건강을 중심으로 한 기능성 소재에 대한 소비자들의 욕구가 증대된다는 것이다. 천연 섬유 중 모시는 통기성이 우수하고 감촉이 깔깔하여 고온 다습한 우리나라의 여름철 옷감으로 좋으므로 현대 의생활로의 도입이 요구되고 있다. 그동안 모시직물은 심미적인 욕구에도 잘 맞아 한국인의 정서에 좋은 이미지로 자리 잡고 있지만 수공예적 생산방식을 그대로 답습하고 있어 전통모시직물로는 많이 이용이 되어왔으나 현대 방적모시직물을 이용한 새로운 직물디자인 개발은 이루어지기 어려운 실정이었다. 그러나 최근 방적모시섬유에 대한 연구가 활발하게 진행되기 시작하면서 현대 방적모시직물의 생산이 가능하게 되었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발하기 좋은 폴리에스터를 경사로하고 방적모시와 라이오셀을 위사로 하여 현대 모시직물의 개발을 시도하였다. 모시의 소비를 증가시키고 현대인의 감성에 맞게 심미성을 향상시킬 수 있도록 직물문양을 디자인하였다. 직물의 복잡한 문양을 컴퓨터로 디자인하고 자동으로 제직이 가능하게 하는 시스템인 EAT 프로그램을 이용하여 자카드 직물 특유의 고급스러움을 살리며 공정과정에서의 실의 밀림 등을 고려하며 조직을 설계하였다. 설계된 직물은 제직 후 염색 가공하여 쿠션, 방석, 테이블 러너 등의 시제품으로 제작하여 고부가가치 모시제품의 개발가능성을 살펴보았다.