• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.31-41
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to formulate a concept of naturalism in fashion and verify the design characteristics found in such designs via reviewing the concept of naturalism and its influence on dress making in different periods in history. The references from various academic fields including philosophy, literature and fine arts were used to examine how the naturalism was formulated over the years. This study was then to identify the naturalistic influences by closely examining various Western dress codes found in literature, publications and actual samples. The results of this study shows that the close examination of naturalism in fashion with the changes of times displayed the complex evolution process over the years, and they were classified by four distinctive categories; Retro, Ecology, Primitive and Ethnic. Naturalism in the contemporary fashion design showed higher frequency of adopting ecological and retro styles, especially retro style adoption being on the rise, combining wide range of partial components of each style. The color usage showed the skewed concentration on YellowRed, Red and Yellow colors with pale, light grayish and grayish tones.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.53-67
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• 2002

자연을 분석함으로써, 얻어진 기하학적 패턴은 이미 자연의 질서를 포함하고 있는 논리적이고 합리적인 기본형이기 때문에 간결하며 시각적으로 명쾌감을 준다. 이러한 기하학적 패턴은 복식 디자인에 있어서 20 세기 이후 여러 디자이너의 작품을 통해 재구성되어 현대적 이미지를 나타내는 중요한 모티브가 되고 있으며, 다양한 기법과 재료로 형성화하여 도입되고 있다. 이에 본 연구는 복식의 문양, 실루엣, 디테일에 사용되고 있는 기하학적 패턴을 연구함으로써 기하학적 패턴의 새로운 조형가치를 고찰하였다. 먼저 기하학의 용어 정의를 하였고 기하학적 패턴의 유형과 표현 기법을 분석하고 정리하여 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴의 조형미와 그것을 바탕으로 패션 이미지를 추론해 보았다. 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학 패턴을 분석해 보면 유형으로는 첫째, 기하하적 문양으로 복식디자인에 있어서 주로 평면적인 형태로 많이 나타나지만, 크기가 다르고 동일한 기하학적 패턴을 조합시킴으로서 평면적인 형태에 공간감을 부여하기도 하며, 같은 기하학적 패턴의 표면이라도 배치구조에 의해 직선 혹은 사선으로 지각되므로 전혀 다른 이미지를 주었다. 또한 현대 패션에 나타난 기하학적 패턴이 종류는 세로 스트라이프, 가로 스트라이프, 격자 문양, 원, 사선 스트라이프, 마름모, 사각형, 삼각형 등의 순서로 많이 나타났다. 둘째, 색채는 단색의 복식에 강한 대비가 이루어지는 색상으로 표현되어 역동감과 유연한 운동감을 나타났다. 셋째, 기하학적 실루엣으로 단순한 라인의 형태를 나타내거나 입체적이고 부조적인 형태로 구성되어 전체적인 실루엣으로 사용되어 강한 조형감각을 보여주는데 원형을 이용한 실루엣이 가장 많았으며 사각형을 이용한 실루엣, 삼각형을 이용한 실루엣 순서로 나타났다. 넷째, 기하학적인 디테일로 복식의 어느 한 부분에 장식적으로 사용되거나 입체적 형태로 부출 되어 부조적인 느낌을 주는데 소매에 가장 많이 나타났으며 앞여밈, 칼라, 밑단, 주머니 순서로 장식되었다. 다섯째, 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴의 표현기법으로는 프린팅, 퀼팅, piece기법, 패치워크, 엮기, 꼴라쥬, 아플리케 순서로 많이 나타났다. 위의 분석을 토대로 기하학 패턴을 활용한 디자인에 내재된 조형의지는 다음과 같이 정리되었다. 첫째, 기하학적 패턴이 지닌 단순성과 경직성을 완화하기 위하여 여러 가지 패브릭을 조합시켜 입체적인 표면효과로 시각적인 착시효과를 극대화하였다. 둘째, 표현기법은 입체파적 표현주의의 특성의 하나로 복시에 사용되는 소재의 왜곡으로 설명할 수 있으며, 새롭고 실험적인 소재의 도입으로 인해 의외성과 부조화를 유발시키는 통시에 유희직인 일면도 지니는 일종의 그로테스크를 나타냈다. 이상에서 정립된 조형의지를 바탕으로 현대 패션에 나타란 기하학 패턴은 절제된 단순함과 명확성으로 단순미가 유추되었고 강한 색상대비로 인한 시각적 집중효과로 주목성을 가지며 재현이 가능하므로 반복성이 유추되었다. 그리고 표준영역이 없는 창의적 표현으로 풍부한 독창성을 보여주고 있다. 또한 내재된 패션 이미지를 분석해 보면 정확함과 차가움의 의미를 지닌 이지적 이미지와 우주의 질서를 반영하는 상징적 이미지, 복잡한 자연으로부터 간결한 형태로의 경향성이 이루어낸 인공적 이미지를 느낄 수 있었으며, 미래적 이미지와 전통적 이미지의 상반된 개념의 이미지를 같이 내포하고 있음을 추론할 수 있었다. 이와 같이 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴은 복식을 조형예술 분야로 확실히 인식시키고 발전시키는 데 중요한 촉매제 역할을 담당하고 있으며 또한 많은 디자이너들에게 창조적 욕구를 불러일으키고 영감을 주는데 중요한 모티브를 제공하고 있다.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.113-129
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• 1997

Postmordern style showed in contemporary fashion is various. Specially, street style begins from teddy boys, mods, hippy, skin head & popular fashion. They are come from mass culture. Mass culture dominated in many ways in modem society. In music, cinema & other plays we can read of youth. Street style includes youth culture about their fear and resistance and their passion. We can see kich in aetheics of street style as it was showed in mass culture. They are as follows. ${\cdot}$ Wit and sympathy expressed in primitivism. ${\cdot}$ Sensuality expressed in erotism like shows in works of Vivian Westwood & Zandra Rhodes. ${\cdot}$ Fantasy expressed cyber & psychidelic fashion.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.209-216
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• 1998

The results of the study of diving the 21st century's Korea fashion market into consumer market, fashion market, and a new marketing strategy are as follows. The 21st consumer market is First, a fashion democracy phenomenon. As many people try to leave unconditional fashion following, consumer show a phenomenon to choose and create their own fashion by subjective judgements. Second, a phenomenon of total fashion pursuit. Consumer in the future are likely to put their goals not in differentiating small item products, but considering various fashion elements based on their individuality and sense of value. Third, world quality-oriented. With the improvement of life level, it accomplishes to emphasize consumers' fashion mind on the world wide popular use of materials, quality, design and brand image. Fourth, with the entrance of neo-rationalism, consumers show increasing trends to emphasize wisdom, solidity in goods strategy pursuing high quality fashion and to demand resonable prices. Fifth, concept-oriented. Consumers are changing into pursuing concept appropriate to individual life scene. Prospecting the composition of the 21st century's fashion market, First, sportive casual zone will draw attention more than any other zone. This is because interest in sports will grow according to the increase of leisure time and the expasion of time and space in the 21st century, and also ecology will become the important issue of sports sense because of human beings's natural habit toward nature. Second, the down aging phenomenon will accelerate its speed as a big trend. Third, a retro phenomenon, a concept contrary to digital and high-tech, will become another big trend for its remake, antique, and classic concept in fashion market with ecology trend. New marketing strategy to cope with changing fashion market is as follows. First, with the trend of borderless concept, borders between apparels are becoming vague, for example, they offer custom-made products to consumers. Second, as more enterprises take the way of gorilla and guerrilla where guerrillas who aim at niche market show up will develop. Basically, they think highly of individual creative study, and pursue the scene adherence with high sensitiveness. However this polarization becomes mutually-supplementing relationship showing gorilla's guerilla movement, and guerilla's gorilla high-tech. Third with the development of value retailing, enterprises pursuing mass merchandising of groups called category killers are expanded and amplified to new product fields, and expand business' share. Fourth, using outsourcing, the trend to use exterior function leaving each enterprise's strength by inspecting its own work is gradually strong. Fifth, with the expansion of none store sale, the entrance of the internet and the CD-ROM sales added to communication sales such as catalogues are specified. An eminent American think tank expect that 5-5% of the total sale of clothes and home goods in 2010 will be done by none store sale. Accordingly, to overcome the problems, First international, global level marketing, Second, the improvement of technology, Third, knowledge-creating marketing are needed.

• Journal of Science of Art and Design
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• v.11
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• pp.5-35
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• 2007

When it comes to art, the two conflicting themes of 'scientific progress' and the 'nature' have often motivated the advent of the new mode of arts. By the late 20th century, uniform and simplified mode of arts, inspired by scientific and technological progress of that time, was gradually disillusioned by the contemporaries due to the adverse effect of science on human life. In this context, naturalism pursuing for harmony of human and the nature came up as an alternative to those living in the 21st century. The pendulum has swung from minimalism to naturalism. Though the quantitative improvement of human life cannot be denied, the uprise of such problems as environmental pollution and exhaustion of natural resources degraded the quality of human life, which, eventually, shifted the attention to the theme - 'revival of naturality.' Therefore, this thesis intends to represent the modem interpretation of the 'revival of naturality' by applying the major expressions of Art Nouveau that also emphasized naturalism. Art Nouveau found its motifs from organic figures of natural beings and put them to designs of decorative arts. This carries a historical significance in that Art Nouveau boldly revolutionized historicism, which only repeated adoption and modification of the existing modes of arts, and opened it to the modem design with new attempts to practical applications of the arts. Art Nouveau, which means 'new art', prospered from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, and even after one century, it is highly appreciated, reviving as novel and vivid forms in this contemporary art. Art Nouveau based on naturalism has revisited our contemporary period when naturalism and feminized romanticism came into fashion and its common motifs revive in different jenre of arts such as fashion, furniture, glass works, and jewelry works. This study illustrates and analyzes the works of four major artists who gave a specific attention to botanical motifs of Art Nouveau and applies decorative beauty of highly sophisticated and organic curved lines and the expressional forms of botanical figures to design. Art Nouveau proved this; the nature herself is as beautiful as she can be. Within Art Nouveau, the true humanism can be revitalized with the 'revival of naturality'. This study rediscovered the boundless potential of modern interpretation and application of Art Nouveau in decorative art and design.

• The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.101-107
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to research and develop the concepts and functions of the Metabus dog fashion show. Currently, as the pet-related industry grows rapidly, the pet fashion industry is also naturally growing. However, unlike the fast-growing fashion industry, it was not enough to meet the needs of dog owners. Therefore, this study attempted to develop a metaverse dog fashion show by supplementing the problems that arise when purchasing existing pet clothes through metaverse. As a research method, first, a survey was conducted on the rise in the actual pet-related industry and the social trends of metaverse and virtual fashion shows. Second, the existing dog clothing purchase characteristics were examined through user demand analysis, and user needs were derived. Third, the appropriate form of content was established, and a new content consumption environment called metaverse was analyzed and derived. Finally, functions were derived and developed to give users satisfaction. In the future, it is necessary to study a clear payment system in connection with the actual dog clothing business based on this.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.167-182
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to examine the art nouveau fashion represented in the end of the twentieth century. The characteristics of art nouveau are naturalism, medievalism , exoticism, and decadentism. The influences of art nouveau were seen in the fashion of the late nineteenth century : S-curve silhouette and organic curve motives printed on hems. Art nouveau has reappeared in modern fashion trends such as romanticism , decadence, ecology, ethno, and fusion. To sum up, art nouveau fashion at the end of the twentieth century is classified into four shapes. First, art nouveau appears in naturalism. Influenced by the arts and crafts movements and naturalistic trend, it has reappeared at the end of the twentieth century in themes like 'art & craft'. This expression technique is to objectively nature and to represented art nouveau textiles. Second, S-curve silhouette appeared at the end of nineteenth century's fashion with the art nouveau influenced rejection of the bustle style. At the end of the twentieth century, the design , emphasizing the hip, is represented in fashion collections as a phenomenon of romanticism . Especially the art nouveau silhouette of the end of the twentieth century does not represent S-curve silhouette. But , it emphasizes the hip only. Third, Art nouveau exoticism by symbolism is influenced by Chinese and Celtic art, the Middle Ages, and the exoticism that appeared in fashion at the end of the nineteenth century : harem style, kimono style, and turbans. Exoticism at the end of the twentieth century is expressed by optical flower prints and successive floral print arrangements as seen in the themes of ethno and fusion. Fourth, one of the characteristics of art nouveau, decadence is influenced by the pre-raphaelite brotherhood. This is expressed in the images of vampires, and symbolism expressing grotesque insect motives and decadent successive curves. At the end of the twentieth century decadence is represented in fashion ; grotesque insect motives, tatto looks of organic curve motives celtic hair style, see-through fashion, grotesque make-up . Besides hair style techniques, decadent expressions applying art nouveau paintings also appeared. Finally , art nouveau fashion represented as a fashion trend at the turning point to the new millennium is one of great significance as an organic, an environment-intimate and continuance-possible design in a future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.12 s.148
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• pp.1582-1594
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to rediscover the value of form in fashion design by developing a new perspective of design appreciation. By examining and modifying the theories of Wolfflin and Belong, this paper tries to of for a new perspective for analyzing the characteristics of form in fashion designers' works. The three new perspective, Flat & Rounded, Closed & Opened and Part & Whole, can be used to analyze the formative aesthetic character of Vionnet's and Dior's works. Ten of Vionnet's and eleven of Dior's representative works selected and applied Delong's visual priority diagram to analyze their character. Vionnet and Dior, emphasized form and construction in their design and applied geometric shapes in their works. The main differences between Vionnet and Dior is that Vionnet's work transforms from geometric shapes in 2-dimentional space to drapery shapes in 3-dimensional space, Dior's work displays geometric shapes in 3-dimensional space. Vionnet created new formative art through the relationship between the clothes and human body. Vionnet's work has distinctively different qualities depending on whether the space is 2-dimensional or 3-dimensional showing transposition of form. In 2-dimensional space, Vionnet's works consist of triangles, rectangles and circles which are 'flat' and 'closed' in quality. These transform to solid forms by draping bias fabrics, which have a 'rounded' and 'open' quality. Dior tended to show artificial form rather than the natural lines of the body which is very different with Vionnet. Dior created clothes by using solid geometric form such as spheres, prisms, cylinders, pyramids and cubes in 3-dimensional space, which were visualized through constructive technique such as dart manipulation, boning, gathering, tucking, pleating, shirring and layering. Dior's works have their own form which does not relate with body shape. So his Works have a 'rounded' and 'closed' quality.