• Title/Summary/Keyword: 일본풍

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A Study of the Oriental Influences on Poiret's Designs (폴 푸아레의 디자인에 표현(表現)된 동양(東洋) 영향(影響)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究))

  • Park, Hye-Won;Cho, Kyu-Hwa
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.1 no.2
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    • pp.74-85
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    • 1997
  • 폴 푸아레 (1879-1944)가 패션 역사상 혁명적이라고 할 수 있는 여성의 코르셋을 제거시켰다는 것은 익히 알려진 사실이다. 그리고 그러한 결과로 인해 발생된 새로운 직선형의 실루엣에 화려한 색채와 장식을 하여 이전 시대와는 전혀 다른 현대패션의 근원이 되었다. 본 연구는 푸아레의 새로운 직선 실루엣과 화려한 색채와 경이적 장식의 근원이 다름아닌 동양이라는데 중점을 두었다. 이미 국내의 몇편의 논문에서 이러한 논의가 지적되어 왔으나 다른 논제를 다루는 중에 언급이 되었고 당시의 작품이나 동시대의 자료를 분석한 것이 아닌 근래의 출판물에 의존한 연구가 대부분이었다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 그의 동양풍 디자인의 근원을 밝히는데 있어 가능한한 1 차적 자료의 접근을 시도하였다. 1912년 작품인 이브닝 드레스, 터번, 숄, 구두 각 1점과 그의 작품 의도와 생애의 추구를 말해주는 자서전(1930년 불어본 및 1931년 영어본)과 보그(Vogue)지의 기사(1920년 2월호, 9월호) 등을 통하여 그의 동양에 대한 관심을 살펴보았다. 그 결과 푸아레의 동양 영향의 근원은 19세기 말 유럽에서 절정을 이룬 'Sino-Japonism'(중국-일본주의)의 심취, 러시아 발레단의 의상과 색채, 천일야화의 영향에 의한 중동(페르시아)에 대한 열망, 그리고 인도 토민병의 복식에서 비롯된 터번에의 매료 등이었음을 알 수 있었다. 이러한 근원에서 탄생된 디자인으로는 직선형의 튜닉, 기모노 소매(처음엔 푸아레 자신도 중국의 것으로 혼동을 하기도 했지만), 하렘팬츠, 비대칭적인 카프탄식의 코트, 원색의 사용, 극동지역의 직물과 문양, 술장식, 터번 등으로 나타내었다. 따라서 폴 푸아레의 동양적인 관심은 단지 개인적 '취향 혹은 취미(taste)'가 아니라 한 시대양식으로 자리잡은 '동양주의(Orientalism)'라 할 수 있으며 이러한 푸아레의 동양주의는 당시의 패션에 있어 신체의 선을 부정하여 코르셋을 제거 시키게한 그의 모더니즘의 근거가 된다. 본연구의 제한점으로 1차적 자료를 수집하는데에 있어 보다 폭넓지 못했던 점을 밝혀둔다.

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A Study on the Improvement of the Steel Pylon Base Design Using Nonlinear FEM Analysis (비선형 FEM 해석을 이용한 기존 강재 주탑기부 설계의 개선방안 연구)

  • Jung, Soo-Hyung;Park, Sung-Woo
    • Journal of the Korea institute for structural maintenance and inspection
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.19-30
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    • 2014
  • In this study nonlinear FEM analysis for steel pylon base of a cable supported bridge is performed in order to compare the results of Akashi-Kaikyo bridge's design specification established in 1970. Due to convenience of its application, the Akashi grand bridge's design specification has been applied to the base design of cable stayed bridges. It has been using linear spring in order to model prestressed high tensioned bars between steel pylon bottom plates and the base concrete. However, the results of nonlinear FEM analysis revealed that the Akashi-Kaikyo bridge's design specification has various problems in the analysis of the steel pylon base. And the steel pylon base has various complex members connecting with each other, and it is main member to resist against the wind load or the earthquake load. Therefore, the nonlinear FEM analysis has to be conducted in order to predict the behavior of steel pylon base exactly. Also, the nonlinear FEM analysis is more reasonable for the load and resistant factor design.

Dynamic Analysis for Base Isolated Structure with Shear Keys (쉬어키를 가진 면진건축물의 동적해석)

  • Han, Duck-Jeon;Kim, Tae-Ho
    • Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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    • v.7 no.1 s.23
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    • pp.45-53
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    • 2007
  • Recently, high-rise base isolated building structures with shear keys are often constructed in Japan which frequently occurs earthquakes. High-rise buildings are less damaged because those buildings have longer natural period than md or low rise buildings. The shear key is device that prevents the base isolators operating by the wind loads not by the earthquake loads. In case of big base shear force acts on the shear keys by earthquake, this device is broken and base isolator is operated. Therefore, seismic intensities play a role in acting on the shear keys. If wind loads are hither than the earthquake loads, the shear keys designed by wind loads are not operated in earthquakes. So, the requirements of shear keys in high-rise base isolated building structures must be examined in Korea with moderate seismic legions. In this study shear keys are applied with 5 and 15 stories base isolated building structures and investigated their dynamic responses to original and 1/2 scale downed El Centre NS(1940) ground motions. The results show that the yield shear forces of the shear keys affect significantly the dynamic behavior of base isolated building structures

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The Influx of Four Wangs' Landscape Style Reinterpreted in Jiangnan Circle(江南) in the 19th Century Focused on An Geon-yeong(安健榮)'s Six-fold Landscape Screen (19세기 강남(江南)에서 재해석된 사왕풍(四王風) 산수화의 유입 안건영(安健榮)의 <산수도> 6폭 병풍을 중심으로)

  • Choi, Kyoung Hyun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.41 no.2
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    • pp.79-97
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    • 2008
  • Four Wangs' landscape style (四王山水畵風), which had appeared in Beijing in the early 18th century, widely spread to Korea and Japan in the 19th century and became a significant basis for developing new painting styles in both countries. It was first introduced to Korea by Shin Wi (申緯) and Kim Jeong-hee (金正喜) who associated with literary men of the Qing Dynasty. Being influenced by them directly or indirectly, Shin Myeong-yeon (申命淵), Yi Han-cheol (李漢喆), Yu Suk (劉淑), Changv Seung-eop (張承業), An Choog-sik (安中植), and Jo Seok-jin (趙錫晋) attempted to adapt Four Wangs' landscape style and it later became a main Stream painting style of the Korean painting circles. Based on Four Wangs' landscape style, their landscape paintings had something in common in that they captured natural features from a short distance using the Down-Up prospective and placed guardian mountains across mountain streams by making a tall tree in the right or left bottom of the canvas as the starting point. However, recently unveiled court painter An Geon-yeong (1841~1876)'s the Landscape Screen is remarkable in that it is based on Four Wangs' style, which was in fashion in the late 19th century, but shows different aspects from other Four Wangs' style paintings in terms of feature capturing, brush stroke and colors. While most of An Geon-yeong's existing paintings are small ones, this folding screen is a big piece consisting of six-fold landscape paintings. In particular, it shows new aspects by creating a serene and calm atmosphere through the description of various landscape scenes with thin brush strokes using glossy ink, by showing a macroscopic view in some paintings through feature capture using a birds-eye view method, and by giving life to the canvas through smoke and clouds. This painting style is considered to be linked with those of Wang Xue-hao (王學浩, 1754~1832), Tang Yifen (湯貽汾, 1778~1853) and Dai Xi (戴熙, 1801~1860), based on Four Wangs' style in the early 19th century's Jiangnan Circle (江南 畵壇), who tried to express the energy and vitality of real landscapes by going around China's well-known mountains and complementing painting styles with drawing from nature. Therefore, An Geon-yeong's six-fold Landscape Screen is very significant as a rare case proving the introduction and reception of Jiangnan Circle's Four Wangs' landscape style which was different in many aspects from Beijing Circle in the 19th century.

Estimation on the Radius of Maximum Wind Speed using RSMC Best Track Data (RSMC 최적경로 자료를 이용한 태풍의 최대풍속반경 산정)

  • Ko, Dong Hui;Jeong, Shin Taek;Cho, Hongyeon;Jun, Ki Cheon;Kim, Yoon Chil
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.25 no.5
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    • pp.291-300
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    • 2013
  • Typhoon simulation method is widely used to estimate sea surface wind speeds during the typhoon periods. Holland (1980) model has been regarded to provide relatively better results for observed wind data. JTWC or RSMC best track data are available for typhoon modeling, but these data show slightly different because the data generation process are different. In this paper, a Newton-Raphson method is used to solve the two nonlinear equations based on the Holland model that is formed by the two typhoon parameters, i.e. the longest radius of 25 m/s and 15 m/s wind speeds, respectively. The solution is the radius of maximum wind speed which is of importance for typhoon modeling. This method is based on the typhoon wind profile of JMA and it shows that Holland model appears to fit better the characteristics of typhoons on the temporal and spatial changes than that of the other models. In case of using RSMC best track data, the method suggested in this study shows better and more reasonable results for the estimation of radius of maximum wind speed because the consistency of the input data is assured.

A study on the Process Characteristics of the N/P Micro-fiber Fancy yarn and fabrics (N/P 분할사를 이용한 Fancy 가공사 직물의 공정특성 및 물성에 관한 연구)

  • Hong, Sang-Gi;Park, Seong-Woo;Park, Jang-Hwan;Lee, Yeong-Hyeong
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.90-90
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    • 2012
  • 극세섬유는, 1970년대 말부터 일본의 합섬업체들이 천연소재인 Silk를 모방하기 위해 개발을 시작하였으며, 개발된 섬유의 굵기가 0.5d(1denier=1g/9,000m)이하인 것을 말한다. 이후 극세사에 대한 끊임없는 노력으로, 1980년대에는 천연스웨이드 풍의 인조피혁의 제조가 가능한 0.1d이하급 초극세사가 N/P(Nylon/Polyester) 복합방사된 형태로 개발되었으며, 일본, 및 한국 등에서 이들 소재로 제조된 직편물 제품이 첨단 고부가소재로서 호황을 누려왔다. 이러한 초극세사는 다양한 형태로 발전되어왔는데, 해도형(Islands-in-a-Sea Type), N/P(Nylon/PET), P/N(PET/Nylon) 등이 대표적인 형태이며, 가공공정 중에서 분할이 되면서 그 특성을 발현한다고 하여 분할사, 형태에 따라서 N/P 분할사라 하기도 한다. 최근들어 이러한 N/P 분할사는 기존의 의류용 용도뿐만 아니라, Wiping Cloth, 극세사 타울, 항진드기용 침장 등 다양한 비의류용 소재로도 확대 전개되고 있으며, 이렇게 다양화 되어가고 있는 용도에 따른 공정별 최적 가공 방법에 대한 연구가 진행 중이다. 사가공 공정에 있어서는 텍스쳐링 방법이 적용되기도 하는데, 가장 보편화된 텍스쳐링 방법으로는 DTY(Draw Texturing Yarn), ATY(Air Texturing Yarn) 등의 형태가 있으며, 이러한 텍스쳐링 방법은 물성에 민감한 N/P 분할사의 강도, 신도, 분할도에 영향을 미치게 된다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 텍스쳐링 방법이 아닌 Fancy사 형태로 사가공을 하였으며, 직물로 제직하고, 분할 가공하여 직물로써의 물성까지 분석하였다. Fancy사는 색이나 형의 변화로 디자인효과를 준 실을 말하는데, 심사, 부사, 압사로 이뤄지며 의장사, 장식사 등으로 불려지기도 한다. 주요 공정을 보면, 크릴형성용 부사를 500-600T/M으로 가연한 연사를 얻는 제1공정과, 이 가연된 부사와 심사를 합사하는 제2공정 및 합사된 크릴의 뒤틀림을 방지하기 위하여 압사로 크릴을 고정하여 주는 제3공정으로 이루어진다. 사용된 N/P 분할사는 NP30/36dty, NP50/36dty를 사용하였으며, 부사의 오버피드 및 피드되는 사에 따라 각각 8종, 7종의 Fancy사를 제조하여 섬도(Denier), 강도(Tenacity), 신도(Elongation)를 측정하였다. 또한, 이들 사들로 제직 및 분할가공을 하여 인장강도, 인장신도, 인열강도, 마모강도, 공기투과도 등의 물성과 중량, 두께를 측정하였으며, 온도, NaOH 농도, 시간 등의 분할 가공조건에 따른 직물의 인열강도 변화도 측정하였다. 이렇게 공정별 조건에 따른 물성의 변화분석을 통해 추후 N/P의 제품화 전개에 도움이 되고자 하였다.

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Analysis of Wind Velocity Profile for Calculation of Wind Pressure on Greenhouse (온실의 풍압력 산정을 위한 풍속의 수직분포 분석)

  • Jung, Seung-Hyeon;Lee, Jong-Won;Lee, Si-Young;Lee, Hyun-Woo
    • Journal of Bio-Environment Control
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.135-146
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    • 2015
  • To provide the data necessary to determine the design wind speed for calculating the wind load acting on a greenhouse, we measured the wind speed below 10m height and analyzed the power law exponents at Buan and Gunwi. A wind speed greater than $5m{\cdot}s^{-1}$ is appropriate for calculating the power law exponent necessary to determine the wind speed distribution function according to height. We observed that the wind speed increased according to a power law function with increased height at Buan, showing a similar trend to the RDC and JGHA standards. Therefore, this result should be applied when determining the power law function for calculating the design wind speed of the greenhouse structure. The ordinary trend is that if terrain roughness increases the value of power law exponent also increases, but in the case of Gunwi the value of power law exponent was 0.06, which shows contrary value than that of the ordinary trend. This contrary trend was due to the elevations difference of 2m between tower installed and surrounding area, which cause contraction in streamline. The power law exponent started to decrease at 7 am, stopped decreasing and started to increase at 3 pm, and stopped increasing and remained constant at 12 pm at Buan. These changes correspond to the general change trends of the power law exponent. The calculated value of the shape parameter for Buan was 1.51, confirming that the wind characteristics at Buan, a reclaimed area near the coast, were similar to those of coastal areas in Jeju.

A Study on the Structure Style of Street Green Spaces on Port Island, Kobe, Japan (일본 고베시(神戶市) 포트아일랜드 가로녹지 구조 유형 연구)

  • Kwak, Jeong-In;Han, Bong-Ho;Noh, Tai-Hwan;Kwak, Nam-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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    • v.43 no.4
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    • pp.62-74
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    • 2015
  • This study was carried out to provide examples of planting methods for the construction of street green spaces with abundant greenery by analyzing road type, surrounding land use and planting structures in street green spaces on Port Island, Kobe, Japan. Port Island_(total area: 826ha) is a marine cultural city located in Japan's first artificial island with facilities of urban function and port facilities. The study site was designated at 11 plots of $55{\sim}285m^2$ on Port Island, and topography structure styles were divided into four types with mounding style, slope style, slope and flat style, flat style according to the adjacent roads width. The area adjacent to the middle roads with high levels of noise and pollution set up the mounding style, slope style, slope and flat style of multi-layer structures using topographic properties. The area adjacent to small roads focused on a green strip with shrubs on a flat style. Surrounding land-uses include a public institution, housing complex, and a commercial building. The planting concept was a buffer and landspace function in case of the middle road_(lane 4) while the small road_(lane 2) was a landspace function. Planting species were diverse with Liquidambe formosana, Cinnamomum camphora, Sapium sebiferum, Cedrela sinensis, Laeocarpus sylvestris var. ellipticus, Ginkgo biloba, Prunus serrulata var. spontanea, Zelkova serrata, Quercus glauca, Juniperus chinensis, Magnolia kobus, Rhododendron spp., Camellia japonica, Abelia mosanensis, etc. Planting density was 0.02~0.08(0.04) individual/$m^2$ at the canopy layer, 0.02~0.08(0.04) individual/$m^2$ at the understory layer. Ratio of green coverage was 40.0~173.7(93.0)% at the canopy layer, 2.1~79.8(34.9)% at the understory layer and 17.9~64.2(32.9)% at the shrub layer. $Gr{\ddot{u}}volumenzahl$ was $1.43{\sim}6.67(4.13)m^3/m^2$ at the canopy layer, $0.02{\sim}2.01(0.85)m^3/m^2$ at the understory layer and $0.14{\sim}0.58(0.26)m^3/m^2$ at the shrub layer. The ratio of green coverage of street green space on Port Island was higher than that of Seoul, and particularly, the ratio of green coverage and $gr{\ddot{u}}volumenzahl$ at the shrub layer differed, compared to the main street green space in Korea. The result of this study may be applicable to other coastal reclaimed cities in terms of setting methods for street greenery considering the topography structure, planting structure and planting function.

Taxonomic Study on the Genus Parasenecio (Compositae) of Korea by the Morphology and Somatic Chromosome Numbers (한국산 박쥐나물속(국화과)의 외부형태와 체세포 염색체수에 의한 분류학적 연구)

  • Nam Gi-Hum;Park Myung-Soon;Jeong Hyung-Jin;Chung Gyu-Young
    • Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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    • v.19 no.2
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    • pp.323-330
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    • 2006
  • The morphology and somatic chromosome numbers of Korean Parasenecio were investigated to estimate their taxonomic values. Some morphological characters, such as the length of whole plants, the numbers of cauline leaves, the shapes of leaf and petioles, the numbers of involucral bracts, floret numbers per head, presence of trichomes on the style, ratio between wide part and narrow part of floret and the size of achene were found to be a good characters for delimiting each taxa. Based upon these characters, six taxa, Parasenecio auriculala var. auriculata, P. auriculata var. kamtschatica, P. hastata subsp. orientalis, P. koraiensis, P. firmus, P. pseudotaimingasa, were recognized about their distribution in Korea, but 2 taxa, P. adenostyloides, P. auriculata var. matsumurana, were needed to be studied their taxonomic position and distribution in Korea. The somatic chromosome numbers of six taxa, P. adenostyloides, P. auriculata, P. auriculata var. kamtschatica, P. hastata subsp. orientalis, P. firmus, P. pseudotaimingasa were 2n=60 and those of P. firmus and P. pseudotaimingasa were reported first in this study.

Distributional Patterns of Understory Vegetation at Mt. Geumdae's Protected Area for Forest Genetic Resources (금대봉 산림유전자원보호림의 하층식생 분포양상)

  • Chun, Seung-Hoon;Lee, Hyung-Sook;Lim, Jong-Hwan
    • Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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    • v.98 no.3
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    • pp.339-350
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    • 2009
  • This study was carried out to investigate distributional condition of rare plants and useful plant resources, and to verify distributional patterns of understory vegetation associated with the upper layer's vegetation structure. Total 59 families, 160 genera, 218 kinds of vascular plants were identified at the study site including 6 rare plants designated by Korea Forest Service (Lloydia triflora Bak., Trillium kamtschaticum Pall., Lilium distichum Nakai, Anemone koraiensis Nakai, Iris odaesanensis Y.N. Lee, Viola diamantica Nakai). Twenty three species of useful plant resources were also identified at the site; 8 of them showed clustered distributions and the others were prone to scatter. Actual vegetation of this study area consisted of one natural community dominated by Quercus mongolica Fisch. and three disturbed communities of Larix kaempferi (Lamb.) Carriere, Abies holophylla Max. and/or a herbaceous vegetation resulting from forest removal and strong wind of mountain top. This classification was strongly supported by cluster analysis based on the surveyed plot data. Distributional patterns of understory vegetation within forest stand were somewhat related to overstory vegetation structure, but showed a different tendency according to site condition, species composition, and competitive pressure among understory vegetation. Therefore, in order to protect the important understory components as forest genetic resources, forest treatments such as density control of overstory should be implanted based on understanding of impact on understory's dynamics and growing condition.