• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1727-1738
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• 2002

세계화, 국제화, 개방화 시대에 살고 있는 우리가 통과의례나 전통 명절과 같은 특별한 행사에 의례복으로 한복을 애용하는 것은 한복이 한국의 문화적 이미지를 강하게 간직하고 있는 한국적 조형물 중의 하나이기 때문이다. 더우기 의례복은 특별한 행사 자체를 위해 착용되었던 만큼 당시대의 내 적 가치를 가장 현저하게 표출하고 있는 복식으로 인정 할 수 있기 때문이다. 본 연구의 목적은 시대 적으로 현대 전통 한복의 기본 형 식을 제공한 조선시대와 그 이후의 복식 중에서 특히 분명한 착용동기와 목적, 복식을 통해 나타내고자 하는 상징성 등을 함축하고 있는 아동용 의례복을 대상으로 복식의 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재 등의 조형 요소를 고찰하는 것이다. 또한 양식적 특성을 살펴보고, 그러한 조형적 특성을 형성시킨 당시대의 사상적 가치를 추론해 보는 것이다. 구체 적인 연구 방법은 먼저 관련된 문헌 고찰을 통한 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 아동용 의례복의 범주를 설정하고 현재 보전중인 실물과 또는 사진, 풍속화에 나타난 복식 자료들을 수집하였다. 그리고 당시대의 사상적 배경에 대한 고찰을 병행하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치를 추출해 보았다. 연구 결과 양식적 특징으로는 남아의 두루마기나 전복 그리고 쓰개류 등에서 기능성을 고려한 변형적 양식이 나타나고 있었다. 색채 역시 음양 보색이나, 오행색을 바탕으로 한 기본색의 구성 이외 에도 소매나 섶에 응용된 색의 배열이나 맞깃 전복의 깃에 나타난 색의 조화는 다양한 색의 조형미를 표현하고 있었다. 특히 색동 등에 나타난 오행색의 배열, 안감과 겉감, 상의와 하의, 외의와 내의에 사용된 색의 조화는 미의식에 관한 문화적 가치를 추론해 볼 수 있다. 더우기 장식 표현에 주로 쓰인 자연물 문양이나 글자 문양은 당시의 지배 사상이 지향하는 덕목 이외에도 전통적으로 내재된 수명과 복록, 부귀와 영화에 대한 내적 가치들을 반영하는 조형적 상징들이라 할 수 있다. 소재는 비교적 계절을 고려하여 사용되고 있었지만 의례적 성격을 지닌 외의나 쓰개류의 경우 계절적 구분을 고려하지 않은 경우도 많이 나타나고 있었다. 장신구의 경우는 많이 사용되는 것은 아니나 역시 상징적 인 가치를 표현하는 실물들을 미적으로 재구성한 사례들이 나타나고 있었다. 이상의 연구를 통해 아동용 전통 의례복은 형태, 색채, 문양, 소재, 장신구 등에서 양식의 다양성과 변형들을 알 수 있었다. 또한 적극적인 내적 가치의 상징들을 복식을 통해 표현하고 있었음을 알 수 있었다. 현대 복식의 디자인에 있어 아동용 의례복에 나타난 창조적인 양식의 변형과 다양성 그리고 복식을 통한 내적 가치의 반영 등이 현대 사회와 조화를 이룬 실질적인 복식 디자인 제시 및 창작에 작은 영감으로 작용하길 바란다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.7-16
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• 1993

Influnced by the official uniform system of China, the colour culture of Korea has changed with time. The ancient colour has included the philo-sophical conception as well as the meaning of thoughts. Forming its tradition, the colour has been accepted in usual life. The philosophy of the Five Element has been developed in the area of Oriental culture and it has influnced to the colour of costume. The five colours(blue, red, yellow, white and black) as the Five Elements colours have disticted the social position. Owing to the fackt, the colour costume has preserved the important meaning. In accordance with the theory of the Five Elements the five colours of costume told its purpose, social position and age. Moreover the relationship among the Five Elements, the direction and the reason have been applied to it with time. Yellow and red have been usually used by kings and high ranking officals, white has been the basic colour for traditional Korean clothes, which hs indicated the integrity symbolizing our race. The Five Elements Colours preserving the theory of Korean the Five Elements have been the conception of Korean traditional colour and they have been developing as the meaning of custom.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.666-672
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• 2024

Shadow puppetry (皮影戏) is a traditional Chinese folk art that was inscribed in 2011 as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. This study focuses on analyzing the character sculptures, colors, and patterns recorded in professional books from Shanxi Province in northern China. The findings indicate that Shanxi shadow puppetry can be categorized into two types. The 'Xiaoyi' in northern Shanxi mainly features characters from the story of 'The Investiture of the Gods' (封神演义) and is characterized by the use of both intaglio and relief carving, dark colors, and a paper screen background. The 'Houma' shadow puppetry in southern Shanxi is influenced by the traditional Shanxi opera 'Jinju' (晋剧) and features four roles: Sheng (生), Dan (旦), Jing (净), and Chou (丑), using a mesh screen background. Shadow puppetry represents costumes, beliefs, lifestyles, social status, social systems, and Confucian culture from the Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties, utilizing both intaglio and relief elements, and traditional five-element colors(五行色). This study aims to understand the characteristics of the modeling art in Shanxi shadow puppetry, and to maintain the traditional craft features while adding innovative elements from animation and film, thereby promoting and preserving the traditional values of shadow puppetry culture for children and youth.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.42-43
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• 2001

색상특성은 각 계열별로 차이가 있었으나 전반적 으로 고명도.저채도 중심으로 황색계열과 청색계열 은 고명도 위주의 분포특성을 보였다. 이어 반하여 적색계열은 비교적 색조의 영역이 넓었으며 고채도 의 분포특성이 두드러졌다. 자색계열은 저명도.중 채도, 녹색계열은 고명도.저채도 중심이었다. 남.녀복의 색조유형으로서 여복에서는 white보다는 tone 중심의 색조특성이 나타났으며. 남복에서는 white를 제외한 tint의 색조유형이 많았다. 이는 당시대인의 백색지향 의식을 대변하는 것으로 사료된다. 음양오행론의 배색원리에 의해 검토한 결과 여복 은 상생이 남복보다 낮게 집계되었으며, 반대로 파버 비렌의 색채조화의 배색원리에 의한 검토 철과는 남 복보다 여복의 적용수치가 높았다. 이것은 감각적인 색채조화 보다는 의례적인 성향이 좀 더 징한 남복이 서구의 색채조화의 척도에 적합하지 않은 결과로 추측된다. 전통복의 배색특성은 남녀가 매우 다른 양상을 보 이고 있었다. 여복의 기본 복식구조인 저고리/치마 는 백/청색계열, 백/황색계열과의 배색이 중심으로서 면적대비 및 명도대비에 의한 조화가 이루어지고 있었다. 반면에 저고리의 배색은 유채색과 백색계열 의 배색으로 채도대비의 성향이 강했다. 남복은 황/백색계열. 백/청색계열로 명도의 차가 크지 않았다. 포/띠의 의복 구성에 있어서는 흑색 또 는 적.자색 등의 세조대(細條帶)로 인해 채도대비, 면적대비, 명도대비의 배색효과를 찾아볼 수 있었다. 이상과 같은 분석결과를 통한 한국인의 색사용의 특정은 복식의 전면에 등장하는 백색지향과 음양오 행설을 그 배경으로 하고 있다. 백색위주의 색사용은 인공미가 배제된 자연미의 추구에 기인한 것으로 토착화된 한국의 색으로 볼 수 있다. 백색은 여러 색을 통합하고 배색된 색채착화된 한국의 색으로 볼 수 있다. 백색은 여러 색을 통합하고 배색된 색채들을 담하게 만드는 것이 특징 으로 한국전통 복식의 배색특성을 주도하고 있었다. 마지막으로 본 연구는 회화자료를 근거한 것으로 풍속화의 변색 및 탈색에 의해 당시대의 정확한 색채규명이 어려우며, 실물작품이 아닌 도판을 통한 측 색으로 색의 오차가 발생할 수 있음을 연구의 한계 점으로 언급하고자 한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.81-89
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• 2003

This study is to consider both the eastern and western concepts of colors focusing on the five colors(Blue, Red, Yellow, White, Black) derived from the principles of Yang and the Five Elements, which are the traditional philosophy of the East and to analyze the modern fashion on the basis of the theoretical background. This study is summarized in the following. The eastern color concept has been formed by the influence of the principles of Yin and Yang and the Five Elements, which explain the generation and extinction of the universe. When it comes to the five colors, the symbolism of the east and west has much in common relatively. Concerning the rule of the five colors match, both the rules of the east and west are highly similar with each other. As mentioned above, the study shows that the five colors concepts and match rules between the east and west have much in common. There is a high possibility to connect the compatibility and incompatibility of the eastern five colors with scientific western theory of color harmony.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.53-59
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• 2010

This paper mainly focuses on the Korean Folk Village and Beijing Si-He-Yuan, according to the color theory of hue, value and chroma of Munsell color system to demonstrates the similarities and differences of the traditional upper-class housing between South Korea and China. As the neighboring countries sharing very similar culture and philosophy which owe to the continual communications between China and Korea in the history. The Obangsaek which is derived from the thought of five-elements profoundly and deeply impact on the color selection of traditional housing in both countries. According to the quantitative analysis of photographs, it was found that: 1. The commonly used colors in Korea are Y, YR and neutral color, but in China, people usually used R and GY, especially the high chroma red in Beijing Si-He-Yuan was used as a symbolic color. 2. The chroma preference of traditional housing reveals that people in China used to apply the polychrome and various brightness, on the contrary, the color of low chroma and high lightness were used to be applied in Korea which can give the sense of simplicity and tranquility. 3. Red, one of the Obangsaek affects the color characteristic of Beijing Si-He-Yuan critically but scarcely impact on the color characteristic of Korean Folk Village.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.24
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• pp.215-274
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• 2010

Iron-making industries of the country, regardless of age has been the focus. This makes the iron production technology and production techniques that result in increased economic activity and because of the central charge. Therefore, the social development of ancient iron-making technology is based on phase-sensitive. Modern steel making up the monopoly of the country's target under the strict control of production, distribution was. It is essential to produce iron weapons was a threat is because you can keep the throne in the hands of the forces that can cause side effects when I went was to block. This study created a rail Cholbi(iron monument) and the regional distribution pattern of the production, construction background, looked on. Cholbi(iron monument) for the production and recording "the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" often appear in history books and many academic interests, but was off target. Compared to a stone monument that was not generally as well as the Japanese colonial period and over the course of modernization destroyed, damaged a lot of cases the cause may be found in front. Cholbi(iron monument), except for the gravestones of the Joseon Dynasty monument erected in honor of virtue, as an example of content that dominated a packman business, founding of the school and confirmed that a few were built as a special purpose. Cholbi(iron monument) compared to the production technology or the cost of the monument's difficulty in financing follows. Therefore Cholbi(iron monument) the establishment of the Joseon Dynasty through the background of the economic situation and the local government can look. And iron technology began complaining about the object of history, economic conditions, with the change of season has been a change in people's consciousness tells you. Important data of ancient history as an epigraph that has been as important, the Middle Ages to modern times ranging from newly born to the time Cholbi(iron monument) in the development of the country's documentary subject to change should have been brought. Based on these discussions changes the identity of the hero monument and production inspector, review of production through the Joseon Dynasty period Cholbi (iron monument) contemplated the significance is reflected in production.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.231-240
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• 2003

As all other cultures do, in the background of color of costume, view of life or spirit are contained in the nature or environment that the people lived in are applied. Marring is the ceremony to be socially recognized that both of sexes are unified, assist ancestor and bear future generation. Meaning and symbolism of color are appeared in beauty and organic composition of Lee dynasty. This paper tried to dear up five colors are dean, beautiful and philosophical colors rather than awkward composition of colors through surveying character of five colors appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress that has been succeeded in present age. This paper compared Korean traditional wedding dress and "Dan-chung" of Korea, Japan and China and surveyed theoretical background of Korean traditional color to find character of color appeared in Korean traditional wedding dress. As a result, Korean traditional color is meaningful symbolic color, its origin starts in yin-yang and the live elements of the Oriental cosmogony and it is related with Taoism of Confucianism and color of "Dan-chung." Five colors of yin-yang means everything under the sun and il is the color achieving beauty of balance due to correlation when it is linked to over one color. Further, it contains nature worship and human dignity, prays happiness and gives the significance of "Buksa", meaning of expelling an evil spirit. Formative beauty praying that all creatures are harmonized while human is happy and escapes from uncertainty is the beauty pursuing mental satisfaction as well as visual satisfaction. In future, the creational and characteristic designs that can appeal to world are required through right understanding and study of the beauty of traditional culture beauty of traditional culture

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2014

This study was intended to analyze the correlation between the builder's intentions and the colors that are revealed through the analysis of the manifestation of symbolic colors as the signs and symbols that are shown in the traditional space of Soshaewon as one of the representative retreating villa gardens of Chosun Dynasty and the interpretation of the meanings. The research on the traditional colors and the intended background of Soshaewon and so on was conducted by examining the relative literature and the contents as the objects for the empirical analysis were the scenic beauties and spatial elemnts that are shown in the plan of Soshewon and the poems about Soshewon 48 scenes as well as the contents of the poems related to Five Primary Colors that are used based on "the Ideology of Five Elements of the Positive and Negative". Espectially, this study was conducted by dividing the spatial elements shown in Soswaewon broadly into the visual, synesthetic and symbolic & cognitive spaces in order to classify the locations and directions of the spaces and natural objects as the visual space, the seasons, the points of times and the five sensory organs as the synesthetic space and the "Four Moral Begginings" & the "Seven Emotions" of New Confucianism as the symbolic and cognitive space and by analyzing if there are any correlation between the decided intentions and the spatial meanings that are revealed by analyzing the system of five primary colors which are used in each spatial element.7) As a result from the analysis of the colors that are used based on the three spatial components of Soshaewon, it was found that one of Five Primary Colors were used 74 times in total. First, in the visual spatial component, one of the colors was used 18 times in total including 2 times of blue, 1 time of red, 6 times of yellow, 4 times of white and 5 times of black. The fact that yellow symbolizing the source of everything and white symoblizing cleanness and pureness are used relatively more often than blue and red symbolizing nature and life respectively can be interpreted that the builder, Mr. San-bo Yang's intention to build Soshaewon is related to the meaning symbolizing the pure will of the builder who wanted to seclude himself from society rather than to give priority to enjoying nature. Second, in the synesthetic spatial component which are selected from the 48 scenes of Soshaewon, one of Five Primary Colors was used 38 times in total including 11 times of blue, 8 times of red, 4 times of yellow, 5 times of white and 10 times of black. Since blue and red symbolizing nature and life respectively are used more often than yellow and black symbolizing the source of the world and pureness & knowledge respectively, it was interpreted that the builder means to be faithful to the unique basic functions of the retreating villa with which the builder wanted to enjoy his passion for enjoying nature and exploring knowledge even though the builder built the villa garden for the purpose of keeping himself pure while being unstained by the world. Finally, it was analyzed that one of Five Primary Colors was used 18 times in total including 4 times of blue, 5 times of red and 9 times of white in the symbolic and cognitive spatial components of the 48 scenes. Since it was found that white symbolizing the builder's political pureness is used at the same frequency as blue and red symbolizing nature and life respectively are used as a result from the analysis, it was interpreted that the intention of creating Soshaewon was emotionally revealed at the same percentage in the aspects of his political pureness and enjoyment of nature through his poems. Especially, as a result from such 3 kinds of analyses regarding to the frequency of using Five Primary Colors, it was found that the number of times using Five Primary Colors in the synesthetic spatial component was 38 as the highest percentage, around 51% followed by each 18 times as the24.5% respectively in the visual and cognitive & symbolic spatial spaces. Based on such results, it can be interpreted that the builder, Mr. San-bo Yang's intention of creating Soshaewon sympolizes that his intention for enjoying the basic nature and the vitality of nature within the retreating villa garden is hidden at the same proportion as his intention for keeping himself pure from the unrightful world. It was intended to reveal the traditional colors which are hidden in a traditional retreating villa by analyzing the correlation between the symbolic meanings and the spatial components of Soshaewon based on the Five Primary Colors which are originated from the "Ideology of the Five Natural Elements of the Positive and Negative", but it is thought that it is possible to explore whether such a theory can be generally applied to other kinds of retreating villa gardens or not through a study on other retreating villa gardens as other examples in which the builder's apparent pure intentions, such as enjoyment of nature and persuit of study, etc., unlike Soshaewon are hidden.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.25-35
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• 1998

This thesis is a study of Kas ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kas ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of T -chi and Yin-yang and Wu-shing as a frame-work of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kas ya mean a name of peculiar color. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kas ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly. they established 'non-primary color' as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called discolored color' as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kas ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary color. That is say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to 'profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness' as the source of them. Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kas ya symbolizes 'profound color' as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetic's mind as well as means don't attach to the shaped materials'. Fourthly, discoloring means to return 'color'. namely 'all kinds of shaped material' to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to reture to the empty. nya. nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors. R pa, by one time Yin and the other time Yang'. R pa, color is a metaplasia of nya and nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means R pa is nya, R pa is nya at the same time and Because this is another expression of Dharma the original meaning of Kas ya symbolize true robes. Consequently, Kas ya means truth and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.