• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.93-93
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• 2012

섬유산업은 그 제조 스트림이 높은 오염 부하와 에너지 다소비를 특징으로 하여 환경규제에 따라 기존 시장의 위축 가능성이 상존하고 있다. 특히 섬유산업의 주요 스트림 중의 하나인 염색가공 공정은 섬유에서 불순물을 제거하고 심미한 색상과 사용 목적에 적합한 성능을 부여하는 단계로 섬유제조 공정에서 가장 높은 부가가치를 부여하는 단계이나 고온의 물과 다양한 화공약품을 많이 사용하고 그 처리온도가 비교적 높아($100^{\circ}C$ 이상) 대표적인 폐수 발생 공정이자 에너지 다소비 공정이다. 섬유의 염색 방법 중 반연속방법인 CPB(Cold Pad Batch)염색은 반응성 염료와 알칼리의 혼합액으로 구성된 염액에 원단을 패딩한 후 상온에서 수 시간 배칭하고 수세 및 후처리하여 염색하는 방법으로 작업공정관리, 설비관리가 간편하고 에너지소비량 절감, 높은 생산성의 장점이 있다. CPB염색법은 주로 직물에 적용되어 보편화 되었으며, 작업공정 중 장력의 영향을 많이 받는 니트 소재에 적용되는 사례는 드물다. 직물류의 CPB 염색가공법은 대구 경북을 중심으로 연구진행이 활발히 이루어지고 있어 국내 100대 정도의 CPB 관련 장비가 직물제품에 한정되어 가동되고 있는 반면, 니트 CPB 관련 염색 가공 업체는 1곳에 불과한 실정이나 니트류에 대한 지속적인 수요 증가를 고려하면 니트 소재에 대한 CPB염색 적용은 시의적절한 필수요소라고 판단된다. 니트 소재에 대한 CPB염색가공 적용 시 나타나는 문제점은 작업원단의 변부 말림현상 발생, 전폭 상태에서의 색상차이인 listing현상, 원단의 첫도입부분과 끝부분의 색상차이인 tailing현상이며, 반복되는 작업 시 염색재현성을 확보하는 것으로 나타난다. 본 연구에서는 CPB염색 시 CPB Head 장치의 Padding 방식 즉, trough와 Nip type에 따른 염색 시 알칼리와 염료 투입에 따른 염색 재현성(Build up, Ending, 알칼리 안정성)을 비교해 보았으며, 이에 따른 염색제품의 물성 및 견뢰도를 확인하여 보다 효율적인 방식을 선별하였다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.341-348
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• 2010

Sodium sulfate is commonly added in reactive dyebath in order to increase substantivity of the reactive dye to cellulose fiber by reducing repulsion between anionic dye and fiber. While sodium sulfate is mostly used in solid form, it is inconvenient to dissolve a large amount of powder sodium sulfate. Furthermore, if there is undissolved salt in dyebath it might cause unlevel dyeing. In this study, sodium sulfate in liquid or solid form was used in dyeing of cellulose fabric with reactive dyes of three primary color and the effect of type or amount of sodium sulfate on dyeing and fastness properties was investigated. When the amount of sodium sulfate rose to 30-50 g/l, K/S value of the dyed fabric markedly increased; further rise in sodium sulfate concentration resulted in slow increase in K/S value. For light color, optimum amount was about 30 g/l in solid form and 50-100 g/l in liquid form while, for medium to deep color, it was 50 g/l and 100-150 g/l in solid and liquid form, respectively. When using each optimum amount of salt in solid or liquid form for medium color, shape of dyeing curve as well as exhaustion was similar to each other. On the whole, similar color fastness results were obtained regardless of type or amount of sodium sulfate.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.16-25
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• 2012

As the test results for surface color, dyeing durability, antibiosis of cotton fabrics and silk fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract, the following conclusions were obtained. The surface color of all the dyed fabrics was confirmed mostly as a GY system. As the result of chrominance(${\Delta}E_{ab}$) measurement, in the case of cotton fabrics the dyed fabrics treated with $Al_2(SO_4)_3$ mordant showed the highest value and in the case of silk fabrics the non-mordant dyed fabrics showed the highest value. The dyeing durability of test fabrics dyed with Agastache rugosa extract are as follows. As the test results of colorfastness to laundry for cotton dyed fabrics, the discoloration degree showed 1st-2nd grade and the contamination degree showed 4th-5th grade. As the test result of colorfastness to dry cleaning for silk dyed fabrics, the contamination degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to acid artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 3rd-4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. As the test results of colorfastness to alkaline artificial perspiration, the discoloration degree showed from 1st to 4th grade and the contamination degree showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade. The colorfastness to sunlight showed from 1st to 2nd grade. The colorfastness to rubbing showed from 3rd to 4th-5th grade in dry process and from 2nd-3rd to 4th-5th grade in wet process. As the test results of antibiosis, the decrease rate of germs to virus Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus showed at least more than 99% after the wash of 10 times. As the test results of antifungal activity to mycete Trichophyton mentagrophytes and Aspergillus niger, the both cotton and silk dyed fabrics didn't gain the significant antifungal effect.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.135-145
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• 2022

In this study, the dyeability of 0.06-denier-per-filament (dpf) ultrafine sea-island-type nylon knitted fabric was investigated and compared with that of 1.0-dpf general nylon with respect to four types of dyes. In particular, leveling, milling, half-milling, and metal-complex dyes were compared at concentrations of 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0%, 4.0%, and 8.0% on-weight-fabric (o.w.f). In each case, staining was performed at 100 ℃. The dyeabilities of the materials were compared in terms of the depth of color as defined by the ratio of the absorption coefficient (K) to the scattering coefficient (S). Results indicated generally low K/S values for both the 0.06-dpf ultrafine sea-island-type nylon and 1.0-dpf general nylon. In terms of the dye type, the milling and half-milling dyes exhibited K/S values of ≥20 for all colors of yellow, red, and blue for the 0.06-dpf ultrafine yarn sea-island-type nylon, which were superior to those of the other dye types. Hence, the milling and half-milling dyes are considered more suitable than the other dyes. Further, a comparison of dye fastness and compatibility revealed that the half-milling dye was the most suitable dye for the 0.06-dpf ultrafine sea-island-type nylon.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.48-55
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• 2003

As the polyester fiber becomes thinner, thermomigration that is the most important factor deteriorating the washfastness, is more dominant. For improving the washfastness of ultrafine polyester dyed with disperse dye, it is necessary either to decrease the amount of thermomigrated dyes on the fiber surface, or to use a disperse dye containing diester group in the coupling component. This paper is concerned to investigate the relation between the chemical structure of three disperse dyes and their dyeing properties and washfastness. The disperse dye whose molecular size is big, can dye ultrafine polyester with good build-up, and its washfastness is reasonably good. Other disperse dye which has diester group, shows the same dyeing properties as the standard disperse dye, and its washfastness is better than that of the standard disperse dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.283-289
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• 1992

In this paper, dyeing properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same liquor-goods ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fibers but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, there fibers were similar and three were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white cotton fabric was higher in case of red dyes and it showed the difference of dye's properties. The degree of stain about white wool fabric showed the highs resistance or stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the dyes. used were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was consistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than that of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arose from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly oriented structure.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.53-61
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• 1998

The absorptions of ultraviolet rays of benzophenone derivatives were investigated in terms of the position of substituent, especially hydroxyl group. When the derivatives were added to the aqueous solution of Rhodamin B, which has very low light-fastness, all of them delayed the photofading of Rhodamin B solution. But on the fabrics, only the derivatives with the hydroxyl group at 2-position showed the good ability of ultraviolet rays absorption. The benzophenone derivatives absorb ultraviolet rays to form a hydrogen bond between hydroxyl group and carbonyl group, and return to their original structure by releasing heat energy. In solution, the derivatives can form a intermolecular hydrogen bond, and absorb the ultraviolet rays. But on the fabric, the intermolecular hydrogen bond is impossible, only hydroxyl group of 2-position forms a intramolecular hydrogen bond, and that makes the derivatives on the fabric absorb ultraviolet rays.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.75-80
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• 1998

In this paper, deying properties and colorfastness of ramie, flax, and cotton fabrics for direct dyes were compared. When dyed in a same dyeing bath ratio, in case of green dyes, colorfastness to light was similar for three fabrics but in case of red dyes, cotton had a lower level. For colorfastness to laundering, three fabrics were similar and there were no consistent differences. The degree of stain about white fabric cotton was highest in case of red dyes. The degree of stain about white fabric wool showed the high resistance of stain and little stain was seen. This result represented that the used dyes were proper direct dyes for cellulosic fibers. For the difference of shade, the cotton was cosistently brighter and the shade of ramie was darker than of cotton and flax. This might mean that optical effects arouse from the comparatively large cross-sectional size of the ramie fiber and its highly ordered structure.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.11a
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• pp.51-51
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• 2011

Acetate 섬유는 고감성 제품의 대표적 핵심소재로서 실크와 같은 우아한 광택과 청량감을 주어 고가의 의류제품으로 사용되지만 편직 및 염색가공 공정이 까다롭고 비교적 저분자량의 분산염료로 염색되어 내열성, 염색견뢰도 및 물에 대한 형태안정성이 떨어진다. 특히, Acetate 편직물은 이태리나 일본 등 섬유선진국에서도 제조가 까다로운 기술적 난이도가 매우 높은 제품군이다. 반면 Tri-Acetate는 Acetate의 장점을 가지면서 내열성, 내세탁성, 원상회복력(resilience)등이 우수하여 기존 Acetate 시장의 고급제품 용도로의 전개가 가능할 뿐만 아니라 PET 등의 물성 및 형태가 다른 복수의 소재성분을 직물 사이에 공존시킴으로써 새로운 태, 기능, 외관, 광택의 부여가 가능하며 이를 활용한 차별화된 고부가가치 시장의 창출이 기대된다. Acetate와 Tri-Acetate 모두 셀룰로오스의 친수기가 아세틸화된 구조를 가지는 소수성 섬유로 분자구조가 치밀하여 분산염료로 염색된다. 그러나 일반적으로 Acetate 섬유의 경우 Acetate용 일반분산염료를 사용하여 저온상압염색을 하는 반면, Tri-Acetate의 경우 고온고압 분산염료를 사용하여 고온고압염색을 한다. PET와 Tri-Acetate 복합소재의 경우, 두 소재의 염색거동이 비슷하여 고온고압 분산염료로 염색이 가능하지만 T/P 복합소재에 상응하는 염색을 위해서는 복합소재를 구성하는 각각의 섬유소재에 적합한 염료의 선정 및 염색법의 개발이 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 Tri-Acetate 및 T/P 복합소재에 대한 염색최적조건을 규명하고자 염색온도별, 2종의 분산염료의 농도별 염색성, 염색시료의 인열강도 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 적정조건을 도출하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1963-1970
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye in powder form was prepared by modifying traditional Niram method, using $Ca(OH)_2$ instead of baked oyster powder for precipitating indigo dye. The prepared dye was applied to dyeing Tencel fabrics to investigate the effect of experimental conditions for the optimization of dyeing process. The indigo dye powder contained 15.2%(w/w) of indigo content and 0.757%(w/w) of indirubin content on the basis of HPLC analysis. Maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 20min. Almost saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 4g/L of indigo dye and then slowly increased for further increase of sodium hydrosulfite. Whereas at higher indigo dye concentration(8g/L) more than 3g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the maximum dye uptake. At the same indigo dye and reducing agent concentration, K/S value of the sample dyed without sodium hydroxide(pH 5.75) was 15.19, much higher than one dyed in alkaline condition(K/S 5.76). There was no difference in colorfastness ratings among samples with different color strength. However, more fading was occurred for the sample with low color strength.