• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.270-282
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• 2002

This study was established to understand how Arte Povera has affected the contemporary fashion based on the analyses of its characteristics and may provide a prospective view to predict style of future fashions. The results were as follows : 1) “The poverty” shows such characteristics as patch work, intentional mismatch, and tendency to prefer slightly used style. This meaning can be explained as direct expression from a sense of alienation, against to consumer economy, and dual-expression between poverty and wealth. 2) “Anti-formativeness” can be described for misinterpretations of creation, arrangement, and informal silhouette due to distortion of the human body. This expression includes such meanings as against to traditionalism, ignorance of rationality, and disorganization of the concepts between the beauty and the ugly. 3) “Naturalism” indicates as characteristics of use of natural materials and primitive expression. This expression could be generated from adaptation to the nature and desire toward uncivilized society due to skepticism about modern society. 4) “Symbolism” shows such expressions as an isolated feeling from society, and metaphoric sense from specific situations because there are too many applications of imported materials. This tendency can be also explained with the creations of spaces for opened concepts through disorganizations of territory, obscurity, and irregularity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.126-142
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• 2009

Arte Povera, which was started centering around of Italy in 1960, made a great sensation using by base materials in the works that were totally different from other artists' work. Beginning of Arte Povera was just starting of Base Materialism and it was a reconsideration about the life's authenticity in material civilization. Arte Povera carried worthless materials, which were overlook or ignored in the life, into the gallery. In this study, records and Arte Povera Group's works was studied. The outcome of Arte Povera's materialism was used to an analysis of fashion designers' works. It shows how to explain Arte povera's materialism in fashion designers' works in 1960s and since 1990. Materialism in fashion is expanding from constructed materials of the clothing to the body. The expression method is getting various and complex. As if 1960s' art was, modern fashion is getting one of the testing places for the Ideology. It is getting out of the boundary of the utility as fashion art by using materials. So a function of the clothing is expending including wareing. The same expression methods of the materialism between fashion and art are as follow: First, revealing silhouette or materialism of the body or material as formless material. Second, an expression method as Base Materialism from a raw material. Third, the mobility and the transformation, which are a changeable characteristic according to a place, a space and an audience.