• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.05a
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• pp.27-27
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• 2004

복식명칭은 복식을 이해하는 중요한 단서로써, 이에 대한 고찰은 많은 문헌 자료를 통해 이루어져 왔다. 본 연구는 $\ulcorner$한자학습서에 기록된 복식용어의 시대적 의미변화에 관한 연구$\lrcorner$에 이은 후속연구로서, 조선시대에 편찬된 유해류 역학서인 <역어유해>.<동문유해>.<몽어유해>.<위어유해>.<방언유해>에 기록된 복식 관련 자료를 중심으로 고찰하고자 한다. (중략)

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2020

East Asian countries share a culture of perfuming clothes. The prosperity of the Maritime Silk Road and the incense trade are direct factors that have led to the development of incense culture. Perfuming clothes is a method of applying fragrance by burning incense. The Chinese could make an incense mixture with various types of incense, and records demonstrating use of perfuming clothes tools (熏籠) show that they might have perfumed clothes with incense mixtures. During the Tang dynasty, the incense trade thrived. Examples of ancient literature such as 『千金要方』, 『香譜』, 『香乘』 describe how to make incense for perfuming clothes and how to perfume clothes. 『桂海虞衡志』 and 『諸蕃志』 shows trade partners and goods. Incense was introduced to Korea alongside Buddhist culture. 『買新羅物解』 shows Silla traded incense with Japan. One of the trade goods recorded in 『買新羅物解』 is perfuming cloth incense (熏衣香), which establishes that Silla performed perfuming clothes at that time. During the Goryeo dynasty, Goryeo exported musk as well as ginseng. The royal family burned incense from the Song royal family. Noblewomen preferred sachets. The use of this dress continued into the Joseon dynasty. 『買新羅物解』 showed that Japan imported incense from Silla. 『The tale of Genji』 illustrates Heian nobles' incense culture, perfuming clothes culture, and trade of incense. Perfuming clothes tools became essential articles for marriage purposes and it developed in a practical shape. The Champa had a perfuming clothes culture. It is described on 『諸蕃志』. As Agilawood is found in Tongking, and Tongking was neighbor to the Champa and China, they might have had a perfuming clothes culture as well. Korea, China, Japan, and Vietnam shared a perfuming clothes culture. We can identify universality and commonality in the purpose of perfuming clothes, time of development, the method of making the incense mixture for perfuming clothes, the method of perfuming clothes, the tools, the gender of perfumer, and the type of herbs and spices.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2008

This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.61-77
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• 2016

This study is to understand the meaning, the location, and the construction of Hyeonhun (玄纁) through the records and relics of the Chosun Dynasty. Hyeonhun means farewell gifts for the dead. Hyeonhun was very personal and was considered to be essential ritual supplies. it was newly made for not only first funeral(初葬), but also the second funeral(改葬), was individually made as well as in the couple funeral(夫婦合葬). the Hyeonhun ritual was performed while dressed in a simabok(緦麻服). The ritual started with washing of the hands(盥手) and deep bowing(再拜) twice. The Hyeonhun was placed on the lid of the inner coffin among the 3 coffins in Chosun tomb's way. The Hyeon was placed on the right side and the Hun on the left side of the lid.(玄右纁左). Hyeonhun are comprised of one, two, five of ten pieces. Most of the excavated Hyeonhun were two pieces : Hyeonhunsokbaek(玄纁束帛) consist of ten pieces, of which six were Hyeons and four were Huns. The records indicated that the materials used to make Hyeonhun was silk, but the excavated relics satin and twill, single gauze in the excavated relics advanced than the records.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.95-109
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• 2015

The purpose of this Study is to understand Supsin (shoes for dead) in late Chosun dynasty through records and excavated relics. The research records in this study were two types which one was official records as The Annals of The Chosean Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄), Dairy of the Royal Secretariat(承政院日記) ets and the other was private records as Korean literary collections of confucian scholars in classical chinese(文集) ect. as for relics use two types of materials that one is the excavated supsins and the other is Research Reports of Excavated Costumes published from museums. Through the Collections, we can notice that shoes were several types which Wunhae(雲鞋), Danghae(唐鞋) Onhae(溫鞋) Wunli(雲履), Taesahae(太史鞋) in Chosun dynasty. these were worn in different ways according to wearer's gender, the social status, daily life or rituals, inside or outside in palace. Wunhae and Wunli was the most ceremonial shoes for man and Onhae was the most ceremonial shoes for woman. the dead man worn the Wunhae or Wunli for Supsin and the dead woman worn Onhae. we could see they use the most ceremonial shoes for supsin. through the records, we could see the change that Women's Supsin was written for the first time in 18th Saraepyenram(四禮便覽). men's Supsin was recorded as '履', while Women's Supsin was recorded as '鞋' in Saraepyenram. the reason for making difference between man and woman in costumes(男女有別). and the excavated Supsin showed that the dead worn more ceremonial shoes than records. these changes mean one of the results for making korean style rituals from chinese style(國俗化).

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.20
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• pp.61-76
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• 2018

The National Museum of Korea conducted conservation treatmenton the armor in its collection for the purposes of public display and appropriate preservation. This was preceded by a literature study on the types and features of the armor in order to collect basic data for secure and accurate conservation treatment. The literature study found that during the Joseon dynasty, armor was named in reflection of precise details including the color, material, status of the wearer, and even the certain parts of a suit of armor. In general, the name of armor includes the details in the order of color, underlying textile, and scale material (e.g., iron, leather). The former part of the name presents the features of the garment and the latter part refers to the material of the scales or the status of the wearer. The study also found that main materials used in armor include textiles, leather, and metal, and armor can be classified by the materials of the scales-e.g., metal armor (鐵甲), leather armor (皮甲), paper armor (紙甲), paper-and-fabric armor (淹心甲), silk armor (緞甲). Joseon-period armor can also be classified into four types according to its structure and the method of wearing, and overcoat(袍)-style armor was the most widely used in the period following the Japanese Invasion of Joseon (1592-1598) through the late nineteenth~early twentieth century. Overcoat-style armor was commonly worn by infantry, and the four examples of armor with leather scales at the National Museum of Korea belong to this category.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.254-267
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• 2019

Clamp resist dyeing is a resist dyeing technique in which a fabric is sandwiched between two or more pieces of woodcarving and then a pattern is expressed by dyeing. Records from nine years of King Heungdeok's reign during the Unified Silla dynasty show that the use of the clamp resist dyeing technique was banned for different garments. This was only for garments of YOOKDUPUMNYEO (六頭品女) or OHDUPUMNYEO (五頭品女). Given this, it can be assumed that clamp resisted fabrics were widely used, and the technique had been established during the Unified Silla dynasty or before. However, only the term can be found in the records. Neither its definition nor how this technique was used is explained. Also, it is difficult to assume the types and features of clamp resist dyeing due to a lack of materials. A small number of relics from the Goryeo dynasty still remain, though. Craft techniques have developed through international exchanges and have changed according to respective nations' circumstances including politics, economics, society, and culture. Hence, this research analyzed documents and relics from China and Japan, two countries neighboring the Republic of Korea, and studied the different types and features of clamp resist dyeing techniques. Clamp resist dyeing techniques were divided into monochromatic or multichromatic according to the number of colors that represented patterns, rather than according to the respective nations' features. They were also classified into mono, bilateral symmetry, or vertical-bilateral symmetry according to the structure of the patterns. Through the study of examples of inherited or reproduced dyeing techniques in China and Japan, it was confirmed that different engraving techniques, including relief, openwork, intaglio fit for the feature of a pattern and the number of colors, were applied in order to vividly represent patterns on fabric. Using small flower pattern clamp resist dyed fine tabby in Amitabha of 1302, the only relic showing its patterns and colors in Korea, as the experiment subject, this research successfully reproduced a clamp resist dyeing technique through a successful experiment based on the basic materials from the dyeing technique case study. Due to the significance of the experiment on a clamp resist dyeing technique that stopped its transmission and shows the features of the technique, this study is expected to be a basic resource that can be used for future reproductions of multichromatic clamp resist dyeing techniques. Also, it is expected to be helpful in widening and recreating the world of Korean pattern dyeing with modern dyeing techniques.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.120-147
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• 2019

In this study, we divided the portraits in the reign of King Seonjo into those which were created before and after the Japanese invasion. We then examined various aspect of costumes expressed in the portraits of meritorious vassals. To analyze official uniforms (Heuk-Danryeung), we examined the Samo height; the side wings' type and pattern; the Danryeung pattern; the Mu style; the processing method of lateral lines in Danryeung the rank badge and rank belt, the color of Dabho and Cheolrik, which were undergarment of Danryeung and Heuk-wa. The meritorious vassals' portraits, prior to Imran, were analyzed with a portrait of Han Eung-in, a Gwang-kuk Pyeong-nan meritorious vassals. The Samo was the highest of the Choson dynasties, and the cloud and treasure pattern was identified on the side wings. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue(acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a large outward wrinkled Mu, and it had a wild goose badge (second rank) and a Sabgeumdae. It did not coincide with the Pumgye(Jaheondaebu) recorded in Gugjo-inmulgo. Reddish Dabho for Dangsang-kwan, green Cheolrik which was undergarment of Danryeung, and Heuk-wa. were identified. After the invasion of Japan, portraits of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals were analyzed through eighteen portraits, including Lee Hyeon-bok. After the invasion of the Japanese, the height of the Samo's top was much lower and the width of the side wings was wider than before the invasion of Japanese. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue (acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a stretching backward Mu. Rank badge and rank belts were almost identical with the record, but there were two exceptions (Sin-jab and Kim, Sae-sin). Therefore, it was reaffirmed that the meritorious vassals' portraits were drawn by the Pumgye at the time of appointment. Among the undergarments of Heuk-Danryeung, green Dabho(11), blue Dabho(4), reddish Dabho(3), and blue Cheolrik(10), green Cheolrik(6), reddish Cheolrik(1), and yucheongsaeg Cheolrik(1) were identified, However, it is suggested that the Dabho of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals should be the reddish Dabho of Dangsang-kwan, which is the same as the previous Imran, and a green Cheolrik.