• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.26-36
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• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.93-101
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• 2015

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit six-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance evaluations twice. The researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores from the evaluations. The results are as follows: first, when comparing the four kinds of existing slopers, dimensions and patternmaking methods of 18 areas, especially width of back chest and side chest, were varied according to the existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance evaluations such as placements of side line on the chest, waist, hip line, measurement in dimension from the center back hip line and from waist line, and appearance of neck line. Third, the suggested sloper are as follows: the ease on the chest is 10.5 cm, 8~10 cm extends for the jacket length, the measure in dimension from the back waist is 2.2 cm, dart intake at the back side is 4 cm, dart intake at the front side is 1.5~2 cm, and dart intake at the front waist is 1 cm. This suggested six-panel jacket sloper is expected to be useful for the various slim-fit jacket designs which have the side panels.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.184-194
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is twofold: it suggests appropriate sizes in menswear slim-fit jackets according to brand zones and number of buttons, as well as jacket patternmaking methods according to jacket styles by surveying and comparing the overall present status of patternmaking and production for both men's slim-fit and classic-fit jackets. The researcher conducted interviews with patternmakers of sixteen brands with prepared questionnaires. Data were analyzed by descriptive statistics using SPSS 12.0. The results of this study are as follows: first, for the production ratios of jacket style, the jacket styles' respective proportions differ distinctly according to brand zone. Second, for a jacket with the same number of buttons according to brand zone, the size in character-casual brand zone (character casual can be defined as high quality brands producing designer style clothes) is slightly bigger than the men's formal suit. As the number of buttons increases, there are increases in the chest, waist and hip circumference; on the other hand, the front neck width and the distance from the shoulder neck point to the bottom of the lapel both decrease. Furthermore, the amount of wearing ease in the chest, waist, upper arm circumference, and sleeve curve is less in slim-fit jacket styles than in classic-fit jacket styles. Fusible interfacing alone is used in slim-fit jackets, while sew-in interfacing is used in combination with fusible interfacing in classic-fit jackets. This research concludes that when slim-fit men's jackets are manufactured, appropriate patternmaking and manufacturing methods should be considered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.569-580
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• 2015

The recent fashion market failed to satisfy the needs of female customers in their 30s who are demanding a slim jacket that makes the wearer look young and slim. Accordingly, the slim-fit jackets of domestic brands targeting the women in their 30s were collected to conduct look and movement fitting evaluations based on the standard somatotype, and a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype was developed based on the present findings. This research aims to increase the satisfaction level of the slim-fit jacket customers reflecting a variety of somatotypes of women in their 30s. The research process was developing jacket patterns fully reflecting the properties in terms of extra space and design lines for different somatotypes of women in their 30s based on the jacket pattern formulated through the advanced research, and then suggesting pattern design methods for the different somatotypes. In this sense, this research attempted to identify the problems concerning the slim-fit tailored jacket fitting for different somatotypes of women in their 30s. The main aim was to suggest ways to improve the customers' satisfaction level regarding the fit, and enable the manufacturers to produce a well-fitting jacket reflecting the peculiarities of each somatotype.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-224
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• 2016

Recently, the interest in a garment that accentuates a fit and slender body continues to be highly desirable. Customers frequently want to wear a slim designed jacket that fits well, reflecting the trends of being young and slim. Accordingly, this research collected information on brands with ready-to-wear slim fit tailored jackets that target female customers in their 30s. By identifying the jacket pattern design and production state by brand, and evaluating the appearance when wearing the jacket, I was able to draw up the following conclusions. First, the fit highlights many problems because of the difference between the model size of brands that targeted domestic women in their 30s and the standard somatotype of them. This can be solved by considering the somatotype of women in their 30s when choosing the models. Second, the relative simplicity of the pattern should allow a slim fit tailored jacket to be produced that fits the front, back and side well. This would lead to the development of a jacket that would fit better as well as allowing for ease of movement. Similar to this, the model size of domestic brands changes frequently and customers prefer the size of a slim model instead of the size suitable for a target's somatotype. This results in a limit on the levels of satisfaction regarding brand targets for body types. Accordingly, it is hoped that this research will become the standard data for the development of a slim fit tailored jacket that will fit women in their 30s well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.171-187
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• 2016

The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.227-236
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• 2015

This study analyzed the lower body type of 30's Korean men to develop a slim-fit pants pattern. As the analysis data, direct measurement data of anthropometric measured value in the 6th Size Korea(KATS, 2010) was used as basic data with 481 men in 30's as analysis objects. The result are as follows. First, the result of analyzing factors for the lower body type classification indicated five factors. Second, the result of executing group analysis (with the independent variable of 5 clusters extracted from the factor analysis)classified the following three types. Type 1(36.8%) displayed a medium height of lower body type, small waist and hip, slim and fit body type with a slim shape between the knee and ankle. The shape between the waist and hip had characteristics of a slight curve and short length. Type 2(35.6%) displayed lowest height of a lower body type that was large and thick between the waist and the hip. The drop value of the waist and the hip was small; therefore, the body type was flat with a minimal curve. The underpart type (below the knee) was the thickest and the length was short. Type 3(27.7%) displayed the highest lower body type, a medium level waist size, flat and narrow waist and belly. This body type had a curve with big drop value of the waist and the hip, lower part from the hip to the ankle (including the knee) and a thick calf with along leg.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.97-109
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• 2014

This study developed a functional dress shirt for adult males that reflected the body surface variation of a human body section by motion. This study conducted a 3D body scan for 8 subjects in their 40's based on the Size Korea 2010 database. Data recorded the proper posture change value and body surface change value to develop functional dress shirts for adult males. We scanned the subjects with a 3D body scanner for five primarily male wearing dress shirts and operating postures, right standing, arms raised to $90^{\circ}$ horizontal forward position, arms raised $90^{\circ}$ to the horizontal position side, lift up the arm $180^{\circ}$, and arm forward $90^{\circ}$ in a bent posture. We analyzed the 3D scan data from those motions to examine change of length using 3D software Rapidform XOS. The results indicated that the body surface sections with contraction were the front and rear shoulder area, armpit and central length as well the width of arms at more than 10%. The increased body section included the body and armpit back length; in addition, the rear arm vibration girth and under arm girth were more than 10%. In order to reflect the size variation of for each motion, the ease amount of the front and rear shoulder length and width needs to be reduced 20% because it affects the shoulder length during the right standing. The results suggest that the ease amount of the shoulder length should be minimal. The ease amount of the back size needs to be 0.5-2cm bigger and set 0.5-1.5cm longer than the dress shirt length side drooping to compensate for the side length shortage of each motion. The sleeve length needs to be 0-0.5cm shorter, and ease amount of the girth of sleeve bottom needs to be reduced 0-0.7cm due to the size variation of arms. However, the girth of the rear arms is suggested to be 0-0.6cm longer in the ease amount to the rear arm girth as the extension is more than 10% over the width and length of each motion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.983-991
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide basic reference data for the development of slim-fit dress shirts patterns for a variety of body somatotypes. For this study, a survey was conducted on the actual product conditions of slim-fit dress shirts of domestic brands(Actual wearing and purchasing conditions, fit, design preferences). The survey was conducted on 135 men in their 20s~30s. PASW Statistics 18 was used for data analysis. The result of this study are as follows : Analysis of the actual wearing conditions of dress shirts indicates that consumers own an average of 1~2 classic-fit shirts and 1~4 slim-fit shirts. These are normally worn once or twice a week, and purchased mainly at department stores, agencies, direct sales markets or outlets. With respect to the purchasing factors, price and style were the main priorities. Surveyed consumers had the greatest preference for designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, a semi-wide collar and the color white. By classifying the surveyed by somatotype, Type B preferred designs darted on both front and back, Type A preferred designs with a non-darted front and a darted back, while Type Y preferred designs non-darted on both front and back. All somatotypes displayed a preference for semi-wide collars and the color white.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.588-596
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• 2015

This study aims to provide the basic reference necessary in improving the fitness of a ready-to-wear brand jacket through a research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s. The following results were drawn by implementing the research method of the self-administered type survey targeting 201 women in their 30s from August 14~28, 2014. First, the female consumers in their 30s preferred one button slim fit jacket when purchasing a tailored jacket and chose a close-fitting size. Second, the slim fit tailored jacket consumers preferred a jacket with some extra portion in the bust and hip areas but tightly fit in the waist area. Third, when purchasing a jacket under the ready-to-wear size system, the women with a triangle shape similar to a standard body silhouette had less instances of mending a jacket while the women with a big or small rectangle shape different from a standard body silhouette had more experiences of mending a jacket. Accordingly, it is expected of the manufacturers to increase the fitness satisfaction of the consumers by identifying the problems concerning the fitness and suggesting the improvement plans to produce a jacket of a good fitness reflecting the properties of different body shapes through such research on the wearing conditions and preferences regarding a tailored jacket by body shape of the women in their 30s.