• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.59-62
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• 1992

Empirical criteria for wave breaking on the coastal slope are substantiated theoretically for complex-shape basins. The theory developed here is a generalization of Carrier-Greenspan theory for a plane beach. The place and role of the linear theory for the description of run-up problem is discussed. The height of run-up on the beach of the basins with a “parabolic” profile is calculated for originally monochromatic wave.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2020.06a
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• pp.304-304
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• 2020

항만구조물의 방파제 또는 방파호안의 마루높이는 배후지역의 활용도에 따라 내습파의 월파로 인한 전달파 또는 월파량에 의해 결정되기 때문에 월파량산정은 항만구조물을 설계함에 있어서 주요한 설계인자이다. 그동안 국내에서는 항만구조물 설계시 주로 외국의 기준이나 기법을 활용하고 있는 실정이다. 국내 항만설계기준에서는 Goda도표를 이용하여 직립제 및 방파호안에 대한 월파량 산정방법을 제시하고 있으나, 도표축이 log로 되어 있어 내삽 또는 외삽시 사용자에 따라 월파량 차이가 발생할 수 있다. 국내의 해역특성 및 최근 설계동향을 반영한 월파량 산정식의 개발이 필요하고, 동일조건에 대한 동일한 월파량 산정결과가 도출될 수 있어야 한다. 최근의 대표 연구성과인 EurOtop(2007)과 같이 지수함수의 형태로 월파량 산정식을 제시하고자 한다. 경사식구조물의 평균월파량 산정식 도출을 위해 적용한 구조물 위치에서의 수심(d_t)은 0.40m, 0.55m, 0.70m 이다. 적용수심을 서로 다르게 한 것은 기존의 대부분의 연구에서 적용하지 않았던 구조물 위치에서의 쇄파조건을 고려하기 위한 것이다. 실험파는 Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu 주파수 스펙트럼을 사용한 불규칙파를 적용하였다. 본 연구에서는 주 피복재로 TTP를 대상으로 하였고, 주기 및 파고를 다양한 조건에서 수리실험을 수행하였다. 본 연구의 실험결과는 월파량 계측을 통해 분석된 평균 월파량을 적절한 산정식으로 나타내기 위해 EurOtop(2007)의 기존 월파량 산정식 형태에 대입하여 비교하여 분석하였다. 따라서, 본 논문은 월파량 산정식 제시를 통해 보다 합리적인 항만구조물의 마루높이 산정이 가능하게 하고, 또한 월파량 산정과 관련된 실험자료 구축을 통해 신뢰성해석 자료 및 수치모형의 검증 자료로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of the Institute of Convergence Signal Processing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.122-127
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• 2021

Flow features near the ship bow such as wave breaking, small scale phenomena have been studied using numerical methods. In this study, the bow shaped wedge was adopted which is from previous paper [1, 2] and the conditions of simulation were Re = 1.64 × 10⁵) and Fr = 2.93. Star CCM+, one of the commercial CFD programs has been used for the simulations. Simulation results such as wave profiles near the ship bow, shape of plunging jet, air entrainment, and wave breaking process have been compared with previous experimental and numerical studies. Overall results showed good agreements with previous studies. Profiles of bow waves showed that overturning jet has been created and broken along the wedge. Plunging wave breaking has been observed along the wedge and four components of plunging wave breaking process were shown. It is confirmed that velocity near the overturing jet significantly increased during plunging wave breaking.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.149-155
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• 1999

A treatment of wave breaking is included in the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu. A spatially distributed source function and sponge layers are used to reduce the reflected waves in the computa¬tional domain. The model uses fourth-order Adams predictor-corrector method to advance in time, and discretizes first-order spatial derivatives to fourth-order accuracy, and thus reducing all truncation errors to a level smaller than the dispersive terms. The generated wave fields are found to be good and the corresponding wave heights are very close to their target values. For the tests of wave breaking, although agreement is considered to be reasonable, wave heights in the inner surf zone are over-predicted. This indicates the breaking parameters in the model should be adjusted.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2020.06a
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• pp.89-89
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 GPU 가속화 기반의 Boussinesq 모형인 Celeris Advecnt에 수심 적분된 2차원 이송-확산방정식을 추가하여 인터렉티브 시스템 기반의 추적자 이동 모형을 개발하였다. Celeris Advent는 최초로 개발된 인터렉티브 시스템을 갖춘 Boussinesq 모형으로, 시뮬레이션 중에 사용자가 모형의 파라미터뿐 아니라 모델 도메인 내 수위 및 수심을 바꿀 수 있다. 이를 통해 사용자는 모의가 진행되는 도중에 모델의 안정성 및 효율성을 위해 시간 간격을 조정할 수 있을 뿐 아니라 방파제 설치 등과 같은 지형 변화를 고려하기 위해 도메인 내 격자별 수심을 조정할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 연안에서의 추적자 이동 모의를 위해 Boussinesq 방정식과 더불어 이송-확산방정식을 풀이하는 추적자 이동 모형을 개발하였다. 추적자의 확산항의 경우 분자 자체의 확산과 더불어 쇄파에 따른 난류 확산을 고려하였다. 난류 확산계수는 슈미트 수를 1로 두어 와동점성계수와 동일하게 두었으며, 와동점성은 단순화된 형태의 쇄파모형을 고려하여 계산하였다. 쇄파모형의 고려로 인해 이송-확산방정식과 더불어 운동량 방정식에서도 쇄파에 따른 운동량 소산이 고려되었다. 마지막으로, 추적자 농도에 대한 인터렉티브 시스템을 추가하여, 모델 구동 중에도 사용자가 수심적분된 추적자 농도를 조정할 수 있도록 하였다. 기수행된 2개의 수리실험 조건과 관측값을 이용하여 벤치마크 테스트를 수행하였으며, 관측값과 대체로 일치하는 것을 확인하였다.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

A numerical model for the transformation of irregular waves in a coastal area is developed, which takes account of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction and wave breaking. The governing equations are the usual energy conservation equation and kinematic conservation equations, but to consider the diffraction effects additional terms are included in the usual kinematic conservation or wave number equations. A linear superposition technique is used to represent the spectral formation. and an explicit formula is developed for the estimation of friction factor of irregular waves. A breaking criterion of component waves, which is the modified form of the Kitaigorodskii saturation relation, is employed to restrict the growth of shoaling waves in very shallow waters. The model was applied to a laboratory test and satisfactory agreement was obtained between the computation and measurement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.12-23
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• 1995

Currents driven by irregular waves are modelled using numerical model with various empirical relations improved. Kitaigorodskii's equilibrium equation is refined to account for shoaling effect and used for checking the breaking condition. In order to compute the bottom friction realistically. equivalent roughness blights are estimated considering the ripple shape and bed load transport which may be significant the surf zone. Two sets of equations are employed to evaluate the ripple shape: one is suggested by Nielsen and the other by Madsen and Rogengaus. Both equations give similar shape of ripples. but Madsen et al. give lower value of ripple factor than Swart suggesting that the equivalent roughness becomes relatively small. Optimization technique is used to determine the proper values for the empirical parameters of $\kappa$-ι equations, and the longshore current velocity is computed using the values of empirical parameters determined by the optimization technique.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.873-879
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• 2009

The steady breakers at an infant stage are investigated through the numerical simulation. The appearing condition and characteristics of the sub-breaking waves are reviewed by analysing bow waves. The instability analysis is possibly done through the relationship between the free-surface curvature and circumferential force, which is obtained from the momentum equations. Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite difference method where the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the advanced mesh system are invoked. The numerical result shows that the gradient of M/$U_s$ is greatly influenced by the Froude number and the decrease of M/$U_s$ indicates that the flows are unstable. Additionally flows with plunging or spilling are simulated successfully, but the application of breakers to the severely broken wave still remains to be settled in the future.