• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1190-1197
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.749-755
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• 2004

This paper was conducted to compare the methods of women's basic pattern and the problems by analyzing the space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner and thereupon, proposed the solutions. The Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University(Bunka) and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli(Secoli) were used. The subject who has nearly the same body size with N type of National anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997 was picked out. In the result of analyzing the space between skin and clothing of each pattern by 3D Scanner, there exist significant differences in the chest and bust parts. The Bunka has more space than the Secoli at bust part, especially between bust points. Because the Bunka has the bust dart which was made from only the bust girth, it couldn't reflect the difference of each human body. Whereas the Secoli has the bust dart which gave a consideration the difference between the bust girth and the chest girth, it has more even space between skin and clothing.