• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.37
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• pp.63-91
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• 2009

This study presents an investigation into the Sahyang process and activities of the individuals whose Sahyang(receiving Gwanhyang from the king) was confirmed in the Shilrok documents of early Chosun among naturalized citizens(Hyanghwains). In early Chosun, there were four Chinese(Oh Jin, Lee Min-do, Dang Seong, and Mae Woo) in the Sahyang cases with more of those cases found among Hoigol-in(Seol Jang-soo, an Uighur) and Oioa-guk nationality(Lee Hyeon) from the countries bordering on Western China and two Japanese(Pyeong Sun and Pi Sang-ui). They were naturalized from the reign of King Chungryeol of Goryeo to the first year of King Jeongjong's reign of Chosun. They were diverse to include the great grandfather, grandfather, and father of the individual that received Gwanhyang and himself. There were one case of Sahyang during the reign of King Taejo, four during the reign of King Taejong, one during the reign of King Sejong, and three during the reign of King Sejo. The Gwanhyang they received was wide spread across the nation including Gyerim, Imju, Haeju, Sangju, Milyang, Chungju, Changwon, Dongrae, and Taean. It's very likely that the place of Sahyang was Cheohyang. Many of those who received Gwanhyang were translators and achieved great feats in Chosun's diplomacy with Ming Dynasty and Japan. There were also those who worked in medicine, art of divination, and articles of a criminal code. Seol Jang-su, who passed the state exam of Chosun, was in charge of Jigonggeo, and Lee Min-do and Dang Seong made a contribution to the establishment of Chosun and became big or small meritorious retainers at the founding of Chosun. It's all thanks to those performances that they had the honor of Sahyang of receiving Gwanhyang. Although they were the Gwanhyang with the honor of Sahyang, there is no confirmation of the descendents of the Lee family of Imju, the Pyeong family of Changwon, and the Pi family of Dongrae. While the descendents of the naturalized Chinese still remain in the nation, those of naturalized Japanese ceased to exist, which must be closely related to Chosun's perceptions of other nations those days.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.