고구려인의 복식문화고찰-집안지역 고분벽화를 중심으로-

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.