• 한국지역사회생활과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국지역사회생활과학회 2004년도 제17차 학술대회
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• pp.166-166
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• 2004

전통염색은 합성염료가 공해를 수반하는데 반하여 오히려 득이 되며 염료 자체가 갖고 있는 색의 복합성 때문에 추출색은 가장 자연스럽고 아름답다. 이렇듯 훌륭한 선조들의 문화유산이 편리한 합성염료로 인하여 그 전통과 단절되어 있으므로, 이를 전승발전시키기 위하여 상방정례, 규합총서, 임원경제지, 탁지준절 등의 문헌에 수록된 전통 염색방법을 비교하였다. (중략)

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제18권8호
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• pp.353-365
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• 2018

본 연구는 1759년 6월에 거행된 영조와 정순왕후의 가례에서 사용된 물품 중 보자기에 관련된 내용을 조사하고, 명칭, 옷감, 크기 및 용도, 사용상황, 외형의 특징을 분류하여 정리하였다. 또한 "상방정례"와 "국혼정례"에 기록된 보자기 관련 자료와 "조선왕조실록"의 혼례 관련 기록의 정리를 통해 보자기의 외관 및 사용용도와 당대의 생활상을 비교 분석하여 보자기가 담고 있는 생활 문화적 가치와 상징적 의미를 분석하였다 .18세기는 유교적 의례문화가 확립되고 실행되던 시기였고 왕실의례는 유교이념을 따르고 실천하려는 왕실의 의지를 백성들에게 보이는 실행의 장이었다. 따라서 왕실의 가례절차에 사용되는 모든 물품은 기능적인 용도 외에 백성들이 본받고 따를 수 있는 유교적 예법을 표현하는 도구이기도 했다. 영조는 혼례에 사치를 경계하여 본인의 가례에 사용된 물품에 대하여 사치를 금한 기록이 있다. "영조정순왕후가례도감의 궤"에 기록된 보자기의 재질은 대부분 홍주(紅紬), 홍초(紅?), 대홍광적(大紅廣的) 등의 무늬가 없는 옷감으로 영조의 검소와 절약 의지를 나타내고 있다. 영조 정순왕후 가례에 사용된 보자기는 우리의 전통 의례용품인 동시에 전통의례에 깃들어 있는 성(誠)과 예(禮)의 가치를 표현하는 문화유산이다.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.11-28
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• 2007

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.