• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.158-168
• /
• 2001

A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.14 no.3
• /
• pp.240-246
• /
• 2002

Hydraulic model experiments were conducted fur a series of regular and uni-directional irregular waves propagating over a submerged elliptic shoal. Two different sets of experiments have been studied； one considers regular wave transformation with no breaking, and the other considers uni-directional irregular wave with partial breaking on top of the shoal. The numerical experiments are also performed using a numerical model based on the parabolic approximation equation. The result of the numerical experiments are compared with that of hydraulic experiments.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.13-27
• /
• 1988

Two version of the TUMMAC(Tokyo University Modified Marker-And-Cell) method, i.e., $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ and TUMMAC-VI are applied to two water-wave problems. The ship wave of a Series 60 model($C_B=0.6$) and of the fore-body of a HSVA tanker model are simulated by the $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ method are the results are compared with the experimental results. From the comparison with the experimental data it is ascertained that the $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ method is useful for the analysis of the realized by the TUMMAC-VI method is useful for the analysis of the characteristics of nonlinear ship waves. Three-dimensional wave breaking is realized by the TUMMAC-VI method in the simulation of a flow about a vertical rectangular cylinder. From the results of this simulation, it is shown that the TUMMAC-VI method is very available for the simulation of 3-dimensional wave breaking phenomena.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2004.04a
• /
• pp.179-186
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the developemnt could be easily neglected.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.5
• /
• pp.421-428
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, partial reflection, bottom friction, breaking at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster prevention problems. As waves move from deeper waters to shallow coastal waters, the fundamental wave parameters will change and the wave energy is redistributed along wave crests due to the depth variation, the presence of islands, coastal protection structures, irregularities of the enclosing shore boundaries, and other geological features. Moreover, waves undergo severe change inside the surf zone where wave breaking occurs and in the regions where reflected waves from coastline and structural boundaries interact with the incident waves. Therefore, the application of mild-slope equation model in this field would help for understanding of wave transformation mechanism where many other models could not deal with up to now. The purpose of this study is to form a extended mild-slope equation wave model and make comparison and analysis on variation of harbor responses in the vicinities of Pohang Old Harbor and Pohang New Port, etc. due to construction of New Port in Youngil Bay. This type of trial might be a milestone for port development in macroscale, where the induced impact analysis in the existing port due to the development could be easily neglected.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.403-410
• /
• 2011

Consistent observation with high temporal and spatial resolution is required for an efficient monitoring of coastal environments. Remote monitoring system installed on the ground is capable of simultaneous observation of wide coastal area and consistent observation with high frequency, which a small number of in-situ measurements cannot manage. This paper studies two typical ground based coastal monitoring system, marine radar and camera system. Marine radar can produce time series of frequency spectrum by integrating wave number spectrum calculated from spatial and temporal variation of waves in the radar image. The time averaged radar images of waves can analyze wave breaking zone, rip currents and location of littoral bars. Camera system can observe temporal variation of foam generation originated from coastal contamination as well as shoreline changes. By extracting the part of foams from rectified images, quantitative analysis of temporal foam variation can be done. By using the two above systems of different characteristics, synergetic benefit can be achieved.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.157-164
• /
• 2003

Introduction of wave model, considered the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, and wave-wave interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for that sense, we applied the spectral wave model t the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process. We also compared the simulation results with the calculated from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and sager use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
• /
• v.28 no.1
• /
• pp.97-104
• /
• 2004

Introduction of wave model, take into account the effect of tide, wind and wave induced currents at the coastal waters of complex bathymetry, is a very important factor for most coastal engineering design and disaster protection problems. As the steady state spectral wave model could simulate depth induced wave shoaling and refraction, current induced refraction effect, steepness induced wave breaking, diffraction, wind wave growth, wave-wave interaction, and wave-current interaction that redistribute energy, this would support and compensate the gap in the real field of design where other wave models could not deal and cause wrong estimation. In this study, for better understanding and analysis of wave transformation process, we applied the spectral wave model to the large coastal waters near Gaduck Island where the Busan new port construction project is going on. We also compared the simulation results with the calculatea from the existing model. From such a trial of this study, we hope that broader and safer use of the spectral model in the area of port design and disaster prevention system come through in near future.