• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.2
• /
• pp.45-57
• /
• 2002

21th century is evolving from physical to brain-oriented society, and from class oriented society to network society. In the midst of it, bobos is the new enlightened elite group. In depth analyzationon of the beat generation from the 1950's and hippies from the 1960's, which had influenced the bobos, were done to study on such new and core elite group. According to the research, the emerging of bobos was originated and created from the long gone conflict between the beat and bourgeois, and the hippie and the conservative. And this mixed culture of both free-spirited hippie and materialistic yuppies from the 80's is rapidly growing, and they are easily seem from various commercial advertisements, accessories and fashion designs. In addition, the bobo's were targeted by the main designers, and expressed through bohemian luxury and romantic hippie mood. Naive and childish floral prints, paisley prints that were influenced by the hippies, the hair styles from the 80's and washed denims were seen at the collections. However, the symbolism of the 60's defiant fashion styles seem to fade away but remains only as a style. The comparison and analyzation between the fashion of bobos, hidden meaning of those defiant fashion styles and the aesthetics of it are arranged in the following conclusions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.4 no.3
• /
• pp.75-87
• /
• 2002

The nineteenth century was a watershed - the extreme point of difference in the style of fashion dress and in the roles men and women played in society. This conviction has its roots in the socioeconomic changes of the 19th century and the industrial revolution, and the new working bourgeoisie' value, fashion and taste were on the rise. The bourgeois, who was not considered as having infallible taste, was looking for its own style, while on the other hand it was competing with the nobility. Therefore bourgeois' own etiquette and taste were appeared. There was ideals which the middle classes were hungry for, and it became the basis of judging an individual. The bourgeois tried to get social approval and used fashion was the mean of it. Bourgeois women fashion has a funtion as a complete symbol of the status, wealth and leisure in a patriachal society. Not only the Bourgeois tried to control themselves and to achieve the virtue of moderation, chastity and obedience by the restrictive costume, but also extravagant and cumbersome dresses has a kind of compensative funtion against a sober and simple men's dress. There was a reformative movement to break out of the legal, economic and social restrictions within the confines of respectable Victorian Society. The process of reform was long and slow for not only did laws be changed but the barriers of prejudice in a society convinced of man s mental and physical superiority had to be overcome. But even though there were many difficulties, a small number of progressive women challenged the social recognition and role of women and decisively refused the restrictive and ostentative fashion. Victorian costume was also criticized in the medical and aesthetic aspect for their impracticality. As a result, more funtional and practical women's clothes has appeared, but it have resulted in a peculiar hybrid of traditional female attire in combination with the more uncomfortable aspects of men's clothes. However it was becoming an essential look for new women who were the equals of men and wanted to be treated as such.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
• /
• s.34
• /
• pp.197-217
• /
• 2014

The 1920s and 1930s ushered in "the golden age" of Chinese comics when the comics flourished. Satirical cartoons in modern Chinese comics were popular due to emotional instability and war caused by foreign powers. Among many popular comics, this paper analyzes in the 1920s and in the 1930s which were made into films and dramas. Chapter Two shows that China in the Republican era of China expanded its consumer culture into some sectors like films, novels, magazines and fashion in the 1920s and 1930s. However, more than any other things, this chapter considers from the historical perspective "the golden age" of comics including comic magazine in the 1930s and a history of comic magazines that gained popularity with conventional and common story. Chapter Three explains that social satire cartoons were in vogue since the May Fourth Movement and anti-imperialistic and semi-feudalistic stories in the 1920s were realized in life. It also says that comics that describes the negative sides of its society were popular. Ye QianYu, a cartoonist, portrayed many facets of Shanghai through : the daily life of the middle and lower classes, bureaucratic corruption and sympathy for the working class. drawn by Zhang LePing describes the unfair social system between the bourgeoisie and the proletariat and the gap between the rich and poor through the main character, the powerless and poor orphan. and lampooned the reality of its time in an objective, witty and humorous way in terms of ethics and economy respectively. The researcher chooses to study and which are very familiar to us, because good cartoons, animations and movies stimulate the feelings about our surroundings.