• 제목/요약/키워드: 복식미

검색결과 251건 처리시간 0.026초

21세기 패션의 탈중심화 현상에 나타난 해체성에 관한 연구 - 의복의 외형미와 착용미를 중심으로 - (A study on the deconstruction shown in the 21st century fashion decentering phenomenon - Focused on visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing -)

  • 정세희;김영선
    • 복식문화연구
    • /
    • 제23권1호
    • /
    • pp.145-160
    • /
    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to review the concept and thinking structure of deconstruction theoretically and thereupon, analyze the visual beauty and wearable comfort of the clothing and further, discuss the aesthetic characteristics and values of the decentering phenomenon in the 21st century fashion. Deconstruction provides for an cognitive framework whereby we could comprehensively review the difficult-to-understand and imprudent creativity unravelling in the name of the post-modernism as well as the ambiguous visual beauty and wearable comfort of our contemporary fashion. In particular, deconstruction refuses such concepts involving the relationship between the conventional clothing and its components as order, symmetry, balance, harmony, perfection and simplicity and instead, attaches some sense of value to such relatively inferior concepts as disorder, asymmetry, unbalance, disharmony, imperfection and complexity, and thus, reflects them in the modes of aesthetic representations to create new aesthetics and expand the expressive potential.

댄스 스포츠 의상의 조형성과 미적 특성에 관한 연구 (A Study on Formative and Aesthetic Characteristics of the Costume of Dance Sports)

  • 김미영
    • 복식문화연구
    • /
    • 제14권6호
    • /
    • pp.1042-1055
    • /
    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to consider the formative characteristics of dance sports from such points of view as shapes, colors, material and decorations, and to examine artistic characteristics that are expressed through those elements. As a result, this study shows five artistic characteristics as follows; First, rhythmic characteristic is expressed with repeat of lines that is formed by pleats, shirring or gather, with duplication of ruffle's wave, with gradation of colors, with Moire-effect that is generated with overlap of see-through material, with glossy material that reflects lights to a great extent, with fringe. Second, bodily characteristic emphasizes the beauty of human bodies through direct or indirect body exposure by way of cut-and-open, see-throughness or close adhesion. Third, decorative characteristic is shown with beads, fringe, ruffle, embroidery, shirring, binding, or feather. Fourth, the beauty of female body is manifested to express eroticism, which is culminated by body exposure, body consciousness, use of illuminating or see-through material or colorful trimming. Finally, elegant characteristic is revealed through feminity, sophistication, and harmony that are expressed with black and white colors, see-through material, or bead trimmings.

  • PDF

힌두 사상에 영향을 받은 인도 무봉의(無縫衣)의 조형미 (The Aesthetics of Indian Unstitched Costumes Affected by Hinduism)

  • 서봉하;김민자
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제57권10호
    • /
    • pp.129-141
    • /
    • 2007
  • In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

마돈나 의상에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성없음 (A Study on the Postmodern Identity in Madonna Costume -Focusing on the intertextuality-)

  • 김주영;양숙희
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제51권8호
    • /
    • pp.123-139
    • /
    • 2001
  • 본고는 공간, 시간, 계급, 종교 등 하위문화 텍스트의 병행인용 즉 상호텍스트성(intertextuality)을 통해, 20세기 대중 문화의 상징 마돈나 뮤직 비디오와 공연 등의 인체, 의상, 이미지 등에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성을 연구함으로써, 현대 미디어 문화를 관통하는 주체적 여성 정체성과 미적 주관성을 이해하고자한다. 첫째, 상호공간텍스트성 복식은 스패니쉬룩. 태국룩. 게이샤룩, 테크노펑크룩, 테크노 카우걸룩 등의 동서양의 지리적 소외감을 통해 비권위적 다양한 시선을 제시함으로써, 다국적 자본주의와 함께 확장된 미적 체험을 하게 한다.; 둘째, 상호시간텍스트성 복식은 중세 엠파이어 드레스, 18세기 로코코시대의 robe'a la francaise, 미래적 제 3의 종 룩 등 동시적 몽환적 이미지를 통해 유희적 유토피아를 지향하였다.; 셋째, 상호계급텍스트성 복식은 그라피티룩, 펑크룩, 키치룩, 먼로 룩, 보깅(voguing), 에비타 룩 등 상하류층, 하위문화, 빈부, 권력의 유무를 병행인용하여, 좋은/나쁜 취향, 창녀/성녀 이분법을 해체하고 반부르조아적 저항과 물질주의를 찬양하는 탈계급적, 양면적 정체성을 구축하였다. ; 넷째, 상호종교텍스트성 복식은 상징적 가부장인 카톨릭교 텍스트를 인용하여 펑키크리스찬 룩, 에로틱 크리스찬 룩 등의 선/악, 신성성/관능성, 미추, 정숙성/비정숙성의 이분법, 비장미를 해체함으로써 예술의 자율성, 무의식이 강조된 쾌락주의적, 반권위주의적 정체성을 주장한다. 섹슈얼리티에 있어, 시선, 권력, 쾌락의 주체가 됨으로써, 미적 범주에 있어 선악, 미추, 정숙성과 비정숙성의 이분법을 해체함으로써, 유동적 자아를 구성한 마돈나 의상의 포스트모던 정체성은 여성에게 확대된 가능성을 제공하며 내부로부터 해체된 열린 복식을 지향한다.

  • PDF

빅토리아시대 유행복식과 반(反)유행복식 운동에 나타난 여성성자 인체미에 관한 연구 (I) (Study on the Femininity and the Ideal Beauty of Body Implied in the fashion and the Anti-fashion Movement in the Victorian Period (I))

  • 김정선;김민자
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제51권2호
    • /
    • pp.169-180
    • /
    • 2001
  • This paper is intended to explore femininity, the ideal beauty of body and the features in fashion pursued in the fashion system and the Anti-Fashion Movement in the Victorian period, on which the modern fashion is based. For the informative facts needed in this paper, books on history, fashion history, feminism, art history of aestheticism and tole ideal beauty of body are referred to. On the part I of this paper, the femininity and the ideal beauty of body implied in the fashion system in the Victorian period will be reviewed. following are the conclusion : First, in the Victorian period, the value of femininity is put on the body of female by the discrimination of sex divided in two. Consequently, the characteristics of femininity mainly include dependence, passiveness, emotion, beauty, maternity, innocence, and purity. To emphasize the function of reproduction as primary duty and nature of female, the ideal beauty of body is represented in the form of Venus Naturalis, which symbolizes the fertility. And the external form of this body is expressed in slum waist line, ample busom and hip in fashion. Second, the features of this fashion are classified into three categories by their internal value : images of subordinate female, sensual female and maternal female 1) The image of subordinate female is expressed by concealment of legs, tightening the upper part of the body in corset and restriction on action by the crinoline 2) The image of sensual female is revealed in brazing colors and decoration, excessive exposure of the upper part of the body and hip by means of bustle. 3) The image of maternity is expressed in swollen skirt of crinoline, oval bustle silhouette metaphoring the extended womb resulted from pregnancy.

  • PDF

요대 고분벽화상의 무악인 복식에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Dancer and Musician Costumes by the Murals in Tombs of Liao Dynasty)

  • 임명미
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제53권6호
    • /
    • pp.1-10
    • /
    • 2003
  • The results from the consideration of this are as follows. A Study on the Dancer and Musician Costumes by the Murals in Tombs decorate with mural, which is of Liao Dynasty. The tombs belong to two families: eight of them located to the northeast of Xiabali Village belong to the Zhang Family. Another was located to the north of Xiabali Village belong to the Han Family. The bands of the "Sanyue" consist of five to twelve players wearing luxurious dresses(Jamhwasik hwagakBokdu, Danryung, Belt, Boots) and playing miscellaneous musical instruments: sometimes the female ones in the bands are disguised as male. Usually, each band is accompanied with one or a couple of dancers. which one wearing is luxurious dresses (Goge.1amhwasik. Yoo : Jaket : joegori, Sang: skirts: chima, and shoes).

효석작품에 나타난 한국적 복식미 (The Beauty of Korean Costume in Hyo-Suk's Works)

  • 정경임
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제43권
    • /
    • pp.225-242
    • /
    • 1999
  • Generally people and their lives are the basic object of literary works. Although each literary work possesses a different degree of significance depending upon the author's intention the description of costume becomes an indispensable factor in the formation of characters and the social background. In this paper the types of men's and women's clothing in fashion from 1895 to 1942 are studied fior the purpose of understanding the correlation between hyo-Suk's description of the attire and the vogue of the time. Consequently it was clarified that his descriptions of costume have an analogy with the fashion during the era. Especially this study ascertains that the beauty of costume as a formative art emphasizes the altered inherited and developing traditional Korean beauty influenced by exoticism. In conclusion the aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee tells us clearly that the beauty of Korea is the universal beauty apprecialted regardless of place and time. Such an aestheitic consciousness is not rigid but continously transforming. his literarywork clearly shows a new aesthetic categry formed by combination of traditonal Korean beauty and the aesthetic consciousness of exoticism.

  • PDF

레이 카와쿠보의 패션에 나타난 일본 전통복식 미학 특성 연구 - 꼼 데 가르송 2011 F/W ~ 2016 S/S 맨즈컬렉션을 중심으로 - (A Study on Aesthetic Traits of Japanese Traditional Costumes in Rei Kawakubo's Fashion - Focused on Comme des Garḉons' F/W 2011~S/S 2016 Men's Collections -)

  • 이애진;최수아
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제65권8호
    • /
    • pp.125-135
    • /
    • 2015
  • This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

스카프의 조형미를 응용한 의상디자인 연구 (A Study on Apparel Designs using Formative Aesthetics of Scarf)

  • 정희경;김정혜
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제52권5호
    • /
    • pp.47-60
    • /
    • 2002
  • With such basic conceptions in mind. this study was aimed at reviewing the unique formative aesthetics of scarves for creation of modern apparel design. To this end, the drapeability of the rhythmically wrinkled fabric of scarf as well as its tying and enclosing representation were introduced into the apparel details and silhouette to create an apparel design flattering the moderns unique sense of aesthetics and emotion. In the same vein. threads were superimposed on the planar fabric to express a sense of volume and thereby, pursue a unique decorative effect of rich texture. Specifically. the objectives of this study are to highlight the practical use of scarf warming and its decorative formative aesthetics and thereby, apply it to apparel designs and develop an art fabric using the machine embroidery technique. and ultimately, suggest the possibility of unique but highly value-added apparel designs.

핀업스타일이 패션에 미친 영향에 관한 연구 (The Research of Pin-up Style's Influence on Fashion)

  • Young-Sam Kim;Heungsook Chung;Sun-Hwa Kim
    • 복식
    • /
    • 제53권1호
    • /
    • pp.159-170
    • /
    • 2003
  • 핀업은 제2차 세계대전기간동안 매력적인 여성들의 성적인 사진들을 군일들이 그들의 숙소 벽에 부착함으로서 생겨난 신조어이다. 이러한 핀업들은 영화의 발달로 인하여 헐리우드 스타들과 같은 발전된 형태로서 나타나게 됐으며, 그들의 스타일은 하나의 패션 트랜드를 만들었다. 본 연구의 목적은 핀업의 스타일을 역사적 관점에서 고찰하여 특성을 분석하며 핀업 스타일이 역사적으로 어떠한 변화를 통하여 오늘날의 현대패션까지 영향을 미치게 되었는가를 연구하는 것이다. 연구방법은 관련된 문헌고찰을 통한 역사학적 이론적 배경을 토대로 하여 핀업의 범주를 설정하고 관련자료를 수집하였다. 그리고 핀업 스타일의 공시적, 통시적 고찰, 역사적 변천과 특성을 분석하여 이들에 내재된 문화적 가치가 패션에 어떠한 영향을 미치고 있는지를 연구해보았다. 연구 결과 핀업 그 스스로는 역사적 고찰을 통하여 그 가치를 지니며, 핀업 스타일의 변화는 구조적으로 이루어지며, 구조는 세대와 취향에 따라 변화하며 패션에 지속적으로 영향을 미치고 있었다.