• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.187-205
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to research into a meaning of Mexican Mural and to clarify on the internal significance of Muralism in the modern fashion. Nuralism is an example of the brith of the great people's art. The mural Fine art in mexico was the peculiar fine art campaign which observed the social function. And the mural of Mexican that the ideology and fine art combined came to occupy the unprecedented important position as a part of popular education which is the product of Mexico revolution. Thus in this study considered that the background of Mexican Mural in 1930's resembled the social and cultural background of the latter half of 20th century. The internal significance of Muralism expressed in the modern fashion was categorized as attaching importance to human the pursuit of the utopia the tendency to nationalism Satriric and moral painting. First Attaching importance to human in the modern fashion expressed the recovery of humanity by meaning in opposition to moral crisis of the human in the pluralistic society. Second The pursuit of the utopia in terms of interest the ideal way in the modern fashion expressed mysterious or hopeful through using religious colors motivies etc. Third The tendency to nationalism in the modern fashion expressed the painting of the masses in forms of mixing aboriginal culture elements and memorial elements. Fourth Satiric and moral painting in the modern fashion expressed wits or humorous style through using geometrical motives and light colors etc, indirectly expressed distress of modern men.

• 복식
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• 제25권
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• 미술자료
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• 제98권
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• pp.226-241
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• 2020

러시아 상트페테르부르크의 에르미타주 박물관 3층 맨 우측에는, 세계 유수의 실크로드 미술 컬렉션을 상설전시하는 "중앙아시아실"이 자리 잡고 있다. 20세기 초 실크로드를 학술조사한 러시아의 코즐로프(Pyotr Kozlov), 베레조프스키(Mikhail Berezovsky), 올덴부르그(Sergey Oldenburg) 등에 의해 수집된 고고 미술품 들이다. 에르미타주 박물관 소장의 방대한 이들 유물은 그 대강을 파악할 수 있도록 지역별로 분류하여 공개중이며, 이제까지 독일과 프랑스, 영국, 네덜란드, 한국, 일본 등에서 개최된 특별전시를 통해 그 일부를 소개하기도 하였다. 그리고 러시아 실크로드 탐험대의 성과물을 종합적으로 공개한 대형 기획전시 이 2008년에 에르미타주 박물관에서 개최됨으로써, 러시아의 실크로드 관련 유물이 세상에 본격적으로 알려지게 되었다. 이번에 간행된 『아장구자예술품(俄藏龜玆藝術品)』(2018)은 중국의 상해고적출판사(上海古籍出版社)가 에르미타주 박물관과 공동으로, 당관 소장 실크로드 유물 가운데 쿠차 지역의 예술품만을 선정하여 출판한 도록이다. 이 도록의 편집과 논고 및 유물 해설은 에르미타주 박물관 동양부(Oriental Department)의 시니어 큐레이터 키라 사모슉(Dr. Kira Samosyuk)이 담당하였다. 키라 박사는 하라호토(Khara-Khoto)와 서역(西域) 미술 전문가로, 그 이름이 국제적으로 널리 알려져 있는 중앙아시아 불교미술 연구의 석학이다. 본서에는 에르미타주 박물관 소장의 쿠차 지역 출토 유물을 망라하여, 중앙아시아 불교미술에 있어서의 쿠차 지역의 특징을 입체적으로 파악할 수 있도록 하였을 뿐만 아니라, 러시아 탐험대가 남긴 현장사진과 스케치 등에 이르기까지 빠짐없이 소개함으로써, 수집 유물 이외의 귀중한 정보도 아울러 제공하고 있다. 키라 사모슉 박사는 본서의 게재 논문 「The Art of the Kuche Buddhist Temples」에서, 러시아의 실크로드 탐험의 개요를 소개하고, 주로 불교시대 쿠차의 역사 전개 과정과 쿠차에 전래된 불교의 양상 그리고 석굴의 벽화 묘사와 그 연대 문제를 논한 후, 벽화의 주제와 소상(塑像), 석굴사원이 예배의 장으로서 어떻게 운용되고 있었는지에 대해 상세하게 언급하고 있다. 키라 박사는 결론으로서, 쿠차 문화는 불교 전파의 역사 가운데 독립적인 위치를 점하고 있었을 뿐만 아니라, 중국이나 유목세계의 여러 민족과 관계를 맺고 있었으며, 간다라 미술, 헬레니즘, 고대 이란, 중국 문화와의 관련성 속에서 독자적인 성격을 구축하였음을 논하고 있다. 그리고 쿠차 지역에서 형성된 문화는 타림분지뿐만 아니라 돈황(敦煌)과 중원(中原) 지역의 석굴예술에도 지대한 영향을 미치고 있다는 점으로 문장을 마감하고 있다. 키라 박사의 논고 가운데 주목할 부분은 쿠차 지역 석굴의 조성(造成) 연대(年代)에 관한 것이다. 그녀는 이제까지 여러 학자들에 의해 제기된 벽화의 조성 연대에 관한 견해를 소개하며, 벽화의 인물이 착용하고 있는 갑주(甲冑)의 도상(圖像) 특징 등을 소그드 미술 등 주변 지역에서 출토된 관련 자료와 비교하여, 키질의 조성 연대를 기존의 학설보다 백여 년 이상 소급해야 함을 주장하며, 5세기 이전으로 추정하고 있다. 그러나 쿠차 지역 석굴의 조성 시기의 문제는 석굴의 형식 문제를 비롯하여 불화(佛畫)의 주제(主題)와 양식(樣式), 안료(顔料)의 문제, 복식(服飾)이나 두발(頭髮), 제 장식(裝飾) 요소 등을 학제적(學際的) 연구 방법으로 재조명하고, 그 과정에 나타나는 주변 문화권과의 관련성 등을 종합적으로 고찰한 위에 방사성탄소 연대 측정 등 과학적 방법을 보조 자료로 활용하는 수밖에 없다. 에르미타주 박물관에는 제2차세계대전 때 베를린에서 전리품으로 가져온 벽화편이 다수 소장되어 있다. 일반인에게는 물론 학계에서도 그 행방을 전혀 모르고 있었던 이들 벽화편이 최근에 보존처리를 마치고 일반에게 상설전시를 통해 소개되고 있다. 본서 출판의 경위를 서술한 서언(序言)에는 이번 간행이 에르미타주 박물관 소장 쿠차 예술품의 제1차 출판이라고 한 점으로 보아, 아마도 보존처리가 끝난 독일 컬렉션을 소개하는 도록의 편집도 예정되어 있는 듯하다. 아울러 투르판과 호탄 지역 문물을 소개하는 도록의 간행도 기대해본다. 현재 쿠차의 석굴사원에서 절취한 벽화편은 러시아와 독일, 한국 등 여러 국가에 분장되어 있다. 이번 도록 출판을 계기로 쿠차 현지의 키질 석굴을 비롯한 제 석굴사원의 잔존벽화를 중심으로, 세계 각지에 흩어져 있는 벽화를 함께 소개하여 이들 석굴사원 벽화의 원래 모습을 온전하게 소개하는 종합도록의 간행도 필요할 것으로 본다. 그리고 동서의 문화가 혼합되어 있고 쿠차 지역 특유의 지역적 특성이 반영된 석굴사원의 벽화류 등을 소개하는 도록에는, 각 유물에 대한 보다 상세한 해설이 요망된다. 그리고 미술사 이외에도 보존과학적 측면에서의 안료 분석 등 학제적 조사연구 성과도 포함될 수 있기를 기대해본다. 작금의 중국 서부 개발 정책에 따라, 신장 지역의 오아시스에 인구가 과밀 거주함으로써 유발되는 기후변화 등으로 석굴사원의 벽화는 현재 심각한 위기에 처해있다. 이러한 난관을 타개하기 위해서는, 중국의 문화계뿐만 아니라 문화재 보존수복(保存修復)의 첨단 기술을 보유하고 있는 여러 국가들이 실크로드 석굴벽화의 보존수복을 위해 공동 노력하고 아울러 관련 인적자원 양성 등을 위해 보존과학센터를 운영하는 등 모두의 중지를 모아야할 때다. 본서는 20세기 초 서구 열강에 의해 추진된 실크로드의 고대 유적 조사 결과 가운데, 러시아 조사대가 쿠차 지역의 석굴사원을 중심으로 거둔 성과를 종합적으로 소개하는 출판물이지만, 향후 에르미타주 박물관 소장의 독일 컬렉션 벽화까지 전부 소개될 경우, 쿠차의 불교미술과 실크로드 연구에 크게 공헌할 것임에 틀림없다. 이런 의미에서 본서는 이제까지 축적되어 온 쿠차 지역에 대한 고고미술 연구의 마지막 퍼즐 조각이자 실크로드 연구의 새로운 방향을 제시한 학적 의미를 지니고 있다. 본서는 에르미타주 박물관의 실크로드 미술 연구의 성과물이자 새로운 편집 체계로서 학적 편의를 제공하였다는 점에서 큰 의미를 부여할 수 있으며, 이 모든 것을 기획하고 실크로드 미술 연구에 새로운 경지를 개척한 키라 사모슉 박사에게 경의를 표하는 바이다.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.131-148
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• 2003

Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

• 복식
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• 제55권1호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2005

To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• 복식
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• 제13권
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• pp.51-72
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• 1989

In this thesis, I examined the mental, philosophical aspects and the aesthetic sense of our ancestors through the study of the patterns pictured in the mural paintings of Koguryo dynasty's old tomb. To view the mode of construction in Koguryo dynasty from present angle, the detailed analysis of the patterns was done. As a result, I could fully understand the formative consciousness of our nation. 1. I defined the process of transition of the mural paintings by putting some 70 mural aintings into the form of a diagram. 2. The cultural aspects of the mural paintings in Koguryo dynasty were characterized by the fusion of our primitive religion and Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism which were introduced from China. From this fact, I could inferred that Koguryo people were giving off the strong desire for the faith by means of the mural paintings. Further more I found that configuration of the patterns such as religious elements. 3. The types of the patterns were classified into four types, this is, geometric type, natural type, cultural type and abstract type, Among these types, geometric type and natural type were nonsymbolic in nature but became cultured and abstracted in course of time. cultural pattern and abstract pattern got the symbolic meaning in the long run. Of all the constitution of the patterns represented in the mural paintings such as repeat constitution, left and right symmetric constitution, top and bottom symmetric constitution and rotary symmetric constitution, the left and right symmetric constitution was mainly used and some monotony of left and right symmetric constitution. The analysis of motif which was got from the mode of the patterns showed that the mixing of symbolic and nonsymbolic patterns made it possible to regard the separate symbol as compound in nonsymbolic patterns and the combination between nonsymbolic patterns ensured the understanding of other patterns in certain cases. Our ancestors made great efforts to transmit certain meaning symbolically. Also to heighten the symbolism, they drew the meangless patterns firstly and then appended meaning to those patterns secondly. Furthermore, they offered the background to the patterns comblined with symbolism, so that meaning transmission was clarified at last. As mentioned above, the patterns shown in the mural paintings of Koguryo dynasty's old tomb were characterized by natural beauty. And natural beauty was found out clearly in the form and constitution of the patterns. Therefore I concluded that our nation's religious, philosophical tradition was acted on the patterns strongly.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.