• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.39-47
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was investigate the historical change in Kasa for the Buddhist commandment in the era of Buddha and the Korean Kasa. The original Kasa specified in Buddhist commandment has many concrete features. In contrast Korean Kasa is quite simplified and become very practical. Although we could not follow the numerous original specifications in Kasa, we must maintain and transmit Korean Kasa based in the minimum regurations. For this purpose, it is necessary to form a unified opinion and to develop a desirable specification for the Korean Kasa.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.133-143
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• 1978

This study is a latter series of 'A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty' (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1. No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(하피), Mal(말), Sang(상), Daedae(대대), Pesle(폐슬) and Seock(석) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(노의) and Jangsam(장삼). Through Karedogam(가예도감), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(금원문노의) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(단노의). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higher-class dress than Jangsam.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.71-80
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• 1977

From the period of King Tae-Jong up to the third year of King In-Jo, the bestowal system for queen's court dresses from the Myeong Dynasty was one which was much lower than that of China. This system was applied to the queens' court dresses in the early Yi Dynasty. The pheasant's pattern on Jeockwan and Hapee probably indicates that Daesam was possibly regarded as Jeockyoe. In fact, according to Kaeredogam, Jeockyoe was for the first time made in the third year of King Kwanghae, which is the oldest record on Jeockyoe and Daesam. At the age of King Seon-Jo, a new type of queen's clothing was taken as an inevitable result of Japanese Invasion. Jeockyoe system was gradually made ceremonious until the period of King Yeong-Jo through Kakhonjeongye and Kukjosokoryeycobo; it became that of Queen Myeong-Jo's in the end. The traditional Jeockyoe system might have been interblended with Daesam. Yeodae was queen's usual dress and its pattern was the same as that of every women's dresses at Court.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-352
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the textile used for book covers of "Gukgiboksiksoseon" and "Boepboksajeolboksaek", and slipcase of these books kept in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum in Busan. These records are estimated to be written by Gyeongbin Kim(1831-1907), who was a royal concubine of 24th King Heonjong (reign 1834~1849) of the Joseon Dynasty. The cover textile of slipcase and two books are investigated to be silks by the FT-IR. The cover textile of slipcase is flower patterned satin with silver thread and the cover textile of two books are green and red with Su characters and bat patterned satin. The blackish part of pattern of slipcase is investigated by silver thread by FE-SEM-EDAX. Moreover, by the dye analysis, berberine, brazilin, and carthamin are detected from the cover textile of "Boepboksajeolboksaek". It is indicated that it was dyed with an amur cork-tree, a sappanwood, and a safflower. And rutin which is the main dyestuff of the sophora flower of the pagoda tree was detected from the yellow thread of the cover textile of slipcase.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.39 no.5
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• pp.89-105
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• 2001

This study on Jeung San Kyo, one of Korea's new religions, considered the name, kind, form, color and the thoughts of ritual dress which is involved in 15 religious blanches acting currently according to books and the actual research. The following is below. 1 Each names of ritual dresses called rigious branches are Bob Bok(법복), Doh Bok(도복), Yeah Bok(예복) and Jea Bok(제복). 2 In most religious blanches, ritual dress is the Korean cloths which Poh is wear above and Kwan is put on, and the form of Poh(포) is the similar with Durumagi(두루마기), Danryungpoh(단령포), Jungchimak(중치막), Jikryungpoh(직령포) etc, but not the form of Git, Moo and Yiohmim. Kwanmoh is named Chill-Chung-Kwan(칠층관), Yiun-Hwa-Kwan(연화관), Yiun-Kwan(연관), In-Hwa-Kwan(인화관), Tong-Chon-Kwan(통천관) etc. 3. In most religious orders but Dae Suun Jin Li Hueay(대순진리회), Jeung San Doe Jang(증산도장), Colors are used, white, lightblue, and yellow is used in Jeung San Pop Jong Kyo(증산법종교), Dong Doe Pop Jong Gyum Gang Doe(동도법 종금강도). White color means the mind of a people tradition, and light blue expresses an Oriental nation, namely, “Korea”, and is the color representing Jeung San Kyo, and yellow shows the central religion in the future. 4. Jeung San Kyo ceremony fashion reflects the ideologies of the principal role, the Um and Yang-five elements, and, nationalism according to form, color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.149-162
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• 2008

The Regular rule of Sang-uiwon served as a manual of Royal Attires. According to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission, Royal ceremonial attire was made and presented to the royal family. The materials for the Royal informal dress were presented in accordance with usual tributes. There was no difference in informal dress between the royal family and noble class. But the name of items was different such as Goa du[man's jacket], Go ui[woman's jacket], etc. The royal family continued to wear old days dress as akjurm and noui, which were not worn by common people any more, as a means of differentiating clothes. Bub-bok, which was designed only for key figures of the royal family such as the king, crown prince, queen, and crown princess, was the best status symbol. Because of its highly limited example of wearing, bub-bok was the authority of the wearer itself; with only difference in color, pattern, and material depending on social status. Yong-po is the most frequently worn by the Royal men. Yong-po worn with jong-lip served as yung-bok or gun-bok, and iksun-gwan functioned as sang-bok. Royal Attire for men was clearly divided into Yong-po as sang-bok, bub-bok as myun-bok and gangsa-po, while jeok-ui for women functioned as both sang-bok and bub-bok. However, the use of jeok-ui was defined by differentiate sang-bok from bub-bok like as the pattern of Hyung-bae, number of embroidered round badges, shoes and ornaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.261-277
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• 1998

This study is focused on two things, on the matter of judge's robe(JR) which is worn in the court. First, Korean JR were examined from late 19th century through today(1997)to reveal the entity of the JR : characteristics of each JR has been changed according to the political or international influences. Second, JR from 92 countries were collected and analyzed to figure out the plastic characteristics of the JR among international society. The results are as follows : First, Korean JR were have changed many times according to the social, political influences. The Korean modern judicial system were proclaim in 1895 and JR were adapted in 1906. In 1920, Japanese style JR were worn until 1945 when Korean government have had her Independence. Korean Government have changed JR through which Korean identities were expressed through patterns such as national flower Mukungwha(Hibiscus) and Yang & Yin. In 1966 Korean JR were changed again and adopted western style JR until today (1997) which have many things in common with academic robe of university or clerical robe. Second, the analysis of the 92 international JR were summarized as follows : (1) The JR were consisted of three styles such as Gown style, Cape style and Jacket style. And Gown style has been found as the most popular style(86%) for JR among them. (2) As the main color of JR, black is used among 60% of countries and red is used in 33% of countries. Gold were matched for black JR and gray for red JR as their sub-color. (3) The most popular material were wool and satin were favored as its sub-materials. (4) Natural and Geometric Patterns were used to express the symbol of the country and the court. (5) Decorative items and details such as hat, gloves, shoes, wig, necklace, neck-tie, stole, tassels, rope, ruffles were used to express wearers dignity and symbolism. These results are expected to be adapted for the future design for new JR which has its identity and characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.87-100
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• 2007

In the Joseon Dynasty, a Court Ladies' full dress was Slanted by the Ming Dynasty. Since the Ming Dynasty had declined, a Court Ladies' full dress, Jeok-ui began to be made by the Joseon Dynasty. It was based on the Chinese Court Ladies' full dress, Desam, but it became Joseon's own style, which was different from the Chinese one. The formula of Jeok-ui was completed in the time of King Yongjo. Since then, Jeok-ui for big ceremonies was called Bub-bok. It was recorded on the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon. The color of Jeok-ui was departmentalized for the wearer; red one for the Queen, bluish black one for the Crown Princess, and purple one for the Queen mother. There were some differences between Jeok-ui for feasts and for big ceremonies. In the case of Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, the pattern of Hyung-bae for the Queen was a dragon with five claws, and for the Crown Princess, a dragon with four claws. On the other hand, in the case of Jeok-ui for feasts, the pattern of Hyung-bae was phoenixes for the Queen, Crown Princess and the Queen mother. The number of embroidered round badges, which were attached to Jeok-ui, was 51 for big ceremonies, and 36 for feasts. The skirt for big ceremonies was a Jeonang-ut-chima with dragons pattern for the Queen, and phoenixes for the Crown Princess. The Queen's skirt for feasts was a Jeonang-ut-chima with phoenixes pattern, and the Queen mother's also. The Crown Princess' was a double skirt with phoenixes pattern. The pearls were not decorated on the shoes for big ceremonies, but shoes for feasts had six big pearls fer decoration. When the royal woman wore Jeok-ui for big ceremonies, it was prepared for Kyu, Pe-ok and belt with jade. But those were not necessary for Jeok-ui for feasts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.7
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• pp.5-19
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• 1983

Sacredotal robe(法服) means full court dress. We can't know about the shape of sacredotal robe before Dae-Han Empire(大韓帝國) since there are no remains of it. The study of sacredotal robe for queen have also been made centering around the socredotal robe granted from Ming(明) dynasty and the system of Juck-Eui(翟衣) in Dae-Han Empire. In this thesis I tried to study about the sacredotal robe for queen from King Gong-Min(恭愍王) of Koryeo(高麗) dynasty to the close the Cho-Sun(朝鮮) dynasty by investigating the Literature of Cho-sun Dynasty Chronicles(朝鮮王朝實錄), Ga Rae Do Gam Eui Gue(嘉禮都監儀軌), Sang Bang Jung Rae(尙方定例), Gook Hon Jung Rae(國婚定例), Sok-Orae Eui-Bo(續五禮儀補), and Dae Myung Whe Jeon(大明會典). The first documents on sacredotal robe for queen is regarded as that in the period of King Gong Min., which says that Chil Whee Gu Bong Gwan and Juck Eui of the 9th grade had been given from Ming dynasty. The sacredotal robe for queen in Chosun had been granted from Ming dynasty since the 3th years of King Tae-Jo(太祖) to the 3th years of King In-Jo(仁祖). They were Ju Chui Chil Juck Gwan, red Dae Sam(大衫), Bae Ja(褙子) embroidered with. pheasants on blue silk, and ivory flat baton (笏), which belonged to the court dress for the first class of court lady. When Qing(淸) dynasty succeeded to Ming dynasty, Cho-sun adopted the system of luck Eui which had it's origin in the system of Ming, denying to comply with Chung. But as a matter of fact, the system of sacredotal robe for queen actually used was one which were different from the dress system of Ming and converted into our national ways. In the latter period. of Cho-sun, the system of Bae Ja or Juck Eui were used together until the period of King Young Jo(英祖), and the system of Juck Eui which was written in Gook Hon Jung Rae was continually used from King Young Jo to the close of Cho-sun. It was composed of Juck Eui, Beol Eui(別衣), Nae Eui(內衣), Pe Sool(蔽膝), Dae Dae(大帶), HaPi, Sang(裳), Ok Dae(玉帶), Pae Ok(佩玉), Gue(圭), Mal(襪), Suk, and Myun sa(面紗), The headdress was used in our own ways, not complying with Juck Gwan(翟冠). The color of Juck Eui was red for queen, deep blue for the consort of the crown prince. The color of Juck Eui in DaHan Empire was deep blue, different from that of Juck Eui in Cho-sun. Bo(補) for queen wus embroidered with dragon with five claws and the one for the consort of crown prince with dragon with four claws. The back length of Juck Eui was longer than front about 28cm (1尺), and the front opening was straight down. 51 motifs of a brace of pheasants which were similiar to Bong(鳳) were embroidered on Juck Eui for queen. But we can't find out whether there 31 or 51 on Juck Eui for the consort of the crown prince. The system shows independant aspects, because there are Bo, Myun Sa, Sang, Ha Pi, Beol Eui, and Nae Eui which were not found in the system of Ming. As mentioned above, I have studied on the sacredotal robe for queen. But we can't guess the detail of sacredotal robe for queen, because there are no remains at all. Therefore I expect more study on this.