• Title/Summary/Keyword: 민속복식

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Research on the Costume for the Folk Festivals of Chilseok-dong (칠석동 민속축제복식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Eun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.27 no.12
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    • pp.1397-1404
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    • 2003
  • 2002년 월드컵 전야제에서는 한국문화를 소개해 세계인의 환호를 받았는데 그 중에는 칠석동 민속축제인 고싸움놀이가 펼쳐졌다. 칠석동 민속축제는 일반 서민복식의 전통복 형태를 보여주는 복식(服飾)을 실제 착용하고 축제를 행하고 있으므로, 점차 사라져 가는 전통복식을 놀이문화를 통해 직접 확인할 수 있다는 점에서 연구가치를 갖는다. 본 연구의 목적은 국제화 시대에 우리 전통문화에 대한 정체성 확립을 위해 시대적 변화에 따라 변해 가는 민속복식을 무형문화재로 지정되어 있는 칠석동 고싸움놀이를 중심으로 시대적 흐름을 통한 고싸움놀이의 전수과정에서 형성되어 온 민속축제복식의 구성과 특성을 살펴보는데 있다. 연구방법은 광주지역인 광산구 칠석동 마을을 중심으로 자료조사와 현장조사를 병행하였다. 자료조사는 민속에 관련된 전공서적과 무형문화재 조사보고서, 행사팜플렛 등을 참고하였고, 현장조사는 고싸움 축제에 참가하여 복식 전반에 대한사진촬영과 마을축제 참여하는 마을사람들을 중심으로 축제복식에 관한 면담조사를 하였다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식은 행사가 진행되는 내용에 따라 크게 4가지로 분류할 수 있는데 본격적인 고싸움이 시작되기 전날 밤에 당산나무에 제를 지내는 당산제 복식, 마을의 평안과 고싸움의 흥을 돋우기 위한 농악복식, 고싸움이 시작되기 전에 아낙네들이 손과 손을 맞잡고 둥글게 돌며 화합을 다짐하는 강강수월래 복식, 한해 풍년을 기원하는 고싸움복식이 있다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식의 특성을 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 구성면에서는 농경제의(農耕祭衣)와 안택축원(安宅祝願的)을 기원하는 민속놀이축제복식으로 일상생활에 착용하는 복식을 이용한 농경 의례복의 다(多)기능성이 강조된 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 색상은 우리조상의 백의(白衣)의 상징인 일상복인 백색 위에 오방색을 사용하여 화려하고도 강렬한 원색의 색상조화가 특징적으로 나타났다. 셋째, 형태면에서는 양쪽어깨와 허리선의 면 분할이나 비례를 통해 허리부분의 동작에 따른 유동적인 선이 부각되고 있다. 특히, 평면구성의 단조로움은 흔들리는 몸동작에 따른 고름의 율동미와 축제복식의 착장 방법에 따른 한국복식의 형태미를 보여주었다.

A Study on Lithuanian Folkcostume from 19th Century (리투아니아 민속복식의 고찰)

  • 김문영;조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.7
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    • pp.27-44
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    • 2002
  • The Folk-dress of some parts of the traditional style is extremely focused and puts value on protecting itself against changes. Generally rural areas are much more conservative politically economically, and culturally. Its environment is sluggish and slow and daily routines change slowly. So they take friendly a position between a race and geographical and environmental differences which is expressed in the Folk-dress. Also, a dress is the most preferred individual object as a symbol of collective homogeneity. By those people who preserve these kinds of the individual objects and by those people who have ethnic conservation, folk-dress was handed down to the present age and the festival dress was used as a tool of ethnic tradition and binding. Therefore, 1 would like to study and research the differences between the folk-dress of the Lithuanian historical and geographical factors and the folk-dress of the surrounding north-eastern European countries. Especially when we compare these with the folk-dress in terms of historical, cultural. and political relationships between Lithuania and the north-eastern European countries, we can find out that they had a good effect on the folk-dress historically and culturally.

시베리아 문화권 민속복식의 색채문화에 관한 연구

  • 김문숙;김완주
    • Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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    • 2003.04a
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    • pp.69-69
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    • 2003
  • 의복은 인간의 일상적인 필요에 따라 존재의 수단으로서 중요성을 가지며, 장식과 기능적인 디자인이 요구되는 예술의 한 부류로서의 성격을 갖는다. 이러한 의복의 유형은 가치관, 언어, 종교 및 다른 감정적인 면과 더불어 그 사회의 문화를 표현하는 것으로 파악될 수 있다. 시베리아 문화권의 의복을 살펴보면 인간과 동물세계의 우주론적 연계에서 자기 부족의 생존이 달려있는 동물의 영혼을 즐겁게 해줄 수 있도록 정성을 다하여 의복을 아름답게 사용하고 있는 것을 볼 수 있다. (중략)

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The Type Classification on Modifiable Styling Methods in Wearing Folk Costumes (민속복식의 가변성 스타일링 유형분류)

  • Kim, Hye-Ree;Chun, Hei-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.8
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    • pp.114-126
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    • 2011
  • Many varieties in folk costumes have inspired fashion designs for a long time. Each country, with a unique style of its own reflects their own traditions, beliefs, customs and morals into their traditional costumes. The traditional methods of creating different ways of drapery methods by using only a rectangular piece of cloth have been passed down from generation to generation and it is still used today. This way of styling has been developed mainly in the Middle East, Asia and Africa and the modifiable ways of creating drapery wearing methods are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is changing the purpose of wearing costumes according to the needs and the wants of the person who wears it. The second method is exposing the knots on the surface of the garments and by doing this, there was no visible difference on the aesthetic formation and it did not alternate for a long time. This means that simple knot shapes have been used to tie edges of rectangular fabrics. The third method is a wrapping type of modifiable styling method, which has been used most commonly in folk costumes because there are lots of ways to wrap a rectangular cloth around the body. The fourth way is the fixed type of modifiable styling method and this method can only be noticed only in the Moroccan Izar using fibulas and belts to alter the shape of the Izar. The fifth method is the composite type of modifiable styling method. This method starts by cutting out cylindrical shapes of fabrics and then wraps or twists it to fit the body. The most significant character of modifiable styling methods in folk costumes is to use rectangular cloths, which varies only in ratio of length, width and sizes. Therefore, this study suggests that rectangular cloths can create enormous amounts of fashion styling which can be easily adapted and created in everyday fashion life.

Comparative Study of Asian Ethnic Dresses(PartI) (아시아 전통문화양식의 전개과정에 관한 비교 문화연구(제 1보)-근대 동남아시아 민속복식을 중심으로-)

  • 유혜경;홍나영;이주현;김찬주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.8
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    • pp.1043-1051
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    • 1998
  • The main purpose of this paper was to investigate how ethnic dresses are adopted into modern fashion designs. This research focuses on Japan and Vietnam as a part of an ongoing larger project which examines ethnic dresses of five Asian countries. Fashion designs with influences of Japanese and Vietnames ethnic dresses were anlayzed in order to explore how ethnic dresses coexist with "world fashion" in contemporary society. Eight fashion magazines were examined and the pictures of eigher Japanese or Vietnamese influences were identified. A total of 66 pictures for Japan and 5 for Vietnam were analyzed in terms of eleven characteristics on zero-to-three scales according to authenticity of each characteristic. The characteristics included shape, item, silhouette, color, material, textile print, decorative details, method of dressing, accessories, hairstyle and make-up. The results showed that textile prints and color of Japanese ethnic dresses, and item, silhouette and hat of Vietnamese dresses were most frequently adopted in modern fashion designs. These suggested that fashion world adopts the most distinctive and easy-to-copy characteristics of the ethnic dresses when the designers wanted to incorporate the styles of ethnic dresses.c dresses.

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A Study on the Cyprus Costume (키프로스(CYPRUS) 민속복식 연구)

  • 송미경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.40
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    • pp.67-80
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    • 1998
  • Being located in the east of the Mediterranean Sea, Cyprus used to play a bridge role of cultural exchanges between the East and the West during period of being occupied. As a consequence the fact that the style of costume might be changed at certain levels during the time is broadly accepted. Basic structure of Cypriot men's clothes during the late of the 19th century to the middle of 20th century is composed of\circled1 baggy trousers(vraka) \circled2 shirt(chemise) \circled3 jacket(ziboune/zibouna) \circled4 waistcoat(yilekko) \circled5 headdress(fez, kourouklin) \circled6 accessories. General composition of women's wear is \circled1 pantaloons(vrandzin) \circled2 shift(poukamiso) \circled3 outer garment(sayia, foustani, Amalia, costume) \circled4 waist kerchief(mandili tis koxas)\circled5 boots(podines)/pumps(goves) \circled6 scarves and accessories. As reviewed above, although men's clothes are still worn on a day to day basis, women's wear continues to exist only for festivals or as a tourist attraction. It was understood that this was an accepted consequence of 20th century modernization and reformation.

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