• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.4
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• pp.253-258
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• 2010

Until now, evaluating the efficacy of brightening mainly depends on total reflective light measurement. For example, SHV (Saturation, Hue, Value), $L^*$ $a^*$ $b^*$ (CIELAB color space system) color space system was used and lightness and saturation changes were chosen as major parameters for evaluating brightening effect. However, those parameters were calculated from total reflective light on the skin and it is hard to evaluate perceptive efficacy such as luminescence, and glossy. In this research, we applied new method for estimating change of luminescence of skin by using 'Lumiscan' which uses polarized light for detecting surface and inside reflective light independently. We also tested 15 different parameters for finding correlations between luminescence and those parameters. As a results, our 2 different brightening products showed 5 ~ 9 % increase of luminescence at 4 and 8 weeks. And we also found that skin roughness (-28 %), melanin index (-17 %), redness (-7 %), hydration (15 %), and lightness (6 %) were related to luminescence of skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.3
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• pp.63-90
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• 2002

Quantitative measurement of melanin is the best method to evaluate whitening effect of cosmetics on human skin. However, non-invasive method to quantify human skin melanin with high precision has not been established. Whitening effect of cosmetics on the skin results in lightening of skin color. Therefore, it is reasonable to measure skin color in a reproducible manner for the assessment of whitening effect. Several Instruments or methods, such as colorimeter, mexameter, and visual assessments by experts , have been used for this purpose. In this lecture I will review the details of various assessment methods for the evaluation of whitening effect and discuss the pros and cons of each method. Then I will present briefly the results of clinical trial. Finally I will introduce new non-invasive modalities to quantify melanocytes.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.266-271
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• 2015

Recently many effort focused to understand the mechanical insights of melanogenesis to develop the agent for hyper-pigmentation. So this study was performed to investigate the depigmentation of Vitex rotundifolia. With B16F10 mouse melanoma cell, we have seen inhibition of the tyrosinase, MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2, and melanin synthesis, which eventually were dose dependently decreased by Vitex rotundifolia. Specially, Vitex rotundifolia decreased the protein levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1. In conclusion, Vitex rotundifolia showed the whitening activity in all the experiments mentioned above and we expect that it can be used for preventing melanin synthesis.

• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.58 no.4
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• pp.333-338
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• 2015

The objective of this study was to investigate the whitening effect of Salvia miltorrhiza Bunge water extract (SM-W) in human epidermal melanocyte (HEM). Mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory effect of SM-W was approximately 42% at $1,000{\mu}g/mL$. The HEM cellular tyrosinase and melanin synthesis inhibition activity were 26 and 25% at $5{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. Whitening related proteins and mRNAs including tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1) and TRP-2, and microphthalmia associated transcription factor were reduced by SM-W treatment. In addition, the cAMP expression inhibitory effect of SM-W was decreased by 41% at $5{\mu}g/mL$ concentration. These results indicated that Salvia miltorrhiza Bunge could be used to the possible utilization of functional cosmetic ingredients by confirming whitening activity related with melanin content.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2004

Numerous novel ingredients have been introduced for the higher functionality of whitening cosmetics. Through the preliminary research, we have found Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root have high whitening efficacy. But they are insoluble. Moreover the discoloration of and decrease in content take place when they are exposed to light, heat or oxygen. From Trichosanthes kirilowii root, Prunella vulgaris leaf and Clematis chinensis root, efficacious ingredients were ethanol-extracted by heating to 75∼85$^{\circ}C$ for 6∼8 h. These extracts have the inhibitory activity of tyrosinase and B16 melanin formation, thus enhancing whitening effect. We made liposomes using propylene glycol (PG)/hydrogenated lecithin/middle chain triglycerides (MCT)/glycerin/water and microfuidizer to stabilize extracts. The stability against heat and light was enhanced by 3∼5 times compared with untreated extracts. Particle size analyzer, freeze fracture transmission electron microscopy (FF-TEM), chromameter and HPLC are used for the analysis.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.3
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• pp.327-334
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• 2018

Studies on seaweed-based materials have been progressing steadily day by day. In this experiment, we checked the anti-oxidant, whitening, and moisturizing activities of fermented extract from a mixture of Undariapinnatifida, Saccharina japonica, and Gloiopeltis furcate. Also, Lactobacillus sakei strains of kimchi were used as the lactic acid bacteria. The physiological status of the combined seaweed extracts was also investigated. The 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) radical scavenging results showed that the inhibitory effects of the combined seaweed extracts were higher than the positive control. Furthermore, 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) and Mushroom tyrosinase tests were conducted during the whitening efficacy experiment. Hence, it was confirmed that the whitening activity of fermented extracts was greater than the extracts without fermentation. HPLC analysis of fucose (an active ingredient of seaweed) was also performed and a standard method for solvent conditions was newly established. This study suggests that the composite of algae extract has potentials to be used as anti-oxidant and whitening agents in cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.415-418
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• 2004

Arbutin is a glycosylated hydroquinone found at high concentration in certain plants capable of surviving extreme and sustained dehydration. It has been reported to have an inhibitory effect of melanogenesis and to be hydrolyzed easily to yield glucose and hydroquinone by ${\beta}-glucosidase.$ While hydroquinone also has an anti-melanogenic effect, however, is carefully used as a topical whitening agent because of side effects. The present study was undertaken to examine the inhibitory effect of an whitening agent containing arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ on UV radiation induced pigmentation in human skin. Experimental subjects were UVB-irradiated on the back. UVB-irradiated areas were assigned to three groups: arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ treated group, vehicle control, and no-application control. Arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$ treatment inhibited pigmentation by 50.17 percent, compared with the controls (N : 10: P<0.05). These results suggest that the whitening agent containing arbutin and ${\beta}-glucosidase$may be used as an agent to inhibit melanin formation induced by UV radiation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.151-157
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared Eriobotrya japonica leaf extracts by several extraction processes and then evaluated their biological activities for their potential application as a new raw material of functional cosmetic. Their whitening effects were measured by tyrosinase inhibitory activities, and anti-inflammatory effects were determined by inhibitory activities of nitric oxide (NO) production. Among the several extracts obtained from E. japonica leaf, supercritical fluid extract showed tyrosinase inhibitory activities at the concentration of 10%. Inhibitory activity on NO production effect related to anti-inflammatory efficacy was in the order: supercritical fluid extract > ethanol extract > hot water extract. According to the results of MTT assay, cell cytotoxicity was not observed at all concentrations except for a 5% concentration of the 70% ethanol extract. For whitening effects, 30% ethanol and 70% ethanol extract showed mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity at the concentration of 5%. These results indicated that E. japonica leaf extracts could have the functional effects when they are added as ingredients in cosmetics.

• Journal of Food Hygiene and Safety
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.258-264
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• 2015

Withania somnifera has been used in folk medicine to treat various ailments for centuries. In this studies to investigate the whitening effect of Withania somnifera extracts as an active ingredient for whitening cosmetics, the antioxidant capacity and the effects of Withania somnifera extracts on melanogenesis in B16-F10 melanoma cells were identified. Withania somnifera extracts significantly reduced both tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a concentration-dependent manner. Furthermore, it was found that Withania somnifera extracts decreased ${\alpha}-MSH$ (melanocyte-stimulating hormone)-induced tyrosinase activity and MITF(microphthalmia associated transcription factor) protein expression. These data indicate that Withania somnifera extracts attenuate ${\alpha}$-MSH-stimulated melanin synthesis by modulating MITF expression and that they may be a useful therapeutic agent for treating hyperpigmentation and an ingredient of whitening cosmetics.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.635-644
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• 2019

The aim of this study was to investigate whitening effect of combination between arbutine and oil soluble licorice extract. Inhibitory effects of arbutin and oil soluble licorice extract against tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells were assessed in vitro to determine whitening effect. MTT assay with B16 melanoma cells showed that mixture (arbutin and oil soluble) was not each concentration. Both oil soluble licorice extract and arbutin induced dose-dependent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase activity. Various concentrations (oil soluble extract : arbutin = 1:1. 1:1.5, 1:2, 1:2.5, 1:5) of mixtures also significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity in B16 melanoma cells by 40-51%. In addition, the mixtures reduced the melanin contents of B16 melanoma cells by more than 50% at each concentration. These results suggest that mixtures of arbutin and oil soluble licorice extract are very effective whitening ingredients.