• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.123-139
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• 2001

본고는 공간, 시간, 계급, 종교 등 하위문화 텍스트의 병행인용 즉 상호텍스트성(intertextuality)을 통해, 20세기 대중 문화의 상징 마돈나 뮤직 비디오와 공연 등의 인체, 의상, 이미지 등에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성을 연구함으로써, 현대 미디어 문화를 관통하는 주체적 여성 정체성과 미적 주관성을 이해하고자한다. 첫째, 상호공간텍스트성 복식은 스패니쉬룩. 태국룩. 게이샤룩, 테크노펑크룩, 테크노 카우걸룩 등의 동서양의 지리적 소외감을 통해 비권위적 다양한 시선을 제시함으로써, 다국적 자본주의와 함께 확장된 미적 체험을 하게 한다.; 둘째, 상호시간텍스트성 복식은 중세 엠파이어 드레스, 18세기 로코코시대의 robe'a la francaise, 미래적 제 3의 종 룩 등 동시적 몽환적 이미지를 통해 유희적 유토피아를 지향하였다.; 셋째, 상호계급텍스트성 복식은 그라피티룩, 펑크룩, 키치룩, 먼로 룩, 보깅(voguing), 에비타 룩 등 상하류층, 하위문화, 빈부, 권력의 유무를 병행인용하여, 좋은/나쁜 취향, 창녀/성녀 이분법을 해체하고 반부르조아적 저항과 물질주의를 찬양하는 탈계급적, 양면적 정체성을 구축하였다. ; 넷째, 상호종교텍스트성 복식은 상징적 가부장인 카톨릭교 텍스트를 인용하여 펑키크리스찬 룩, 에로틱 크리스찬 룩 등의 선/악, 신성성/관능성, 미추, 정숙성/비정숙성의 이분법, 비장미를 해체함으로써 예술의 자율성, 무의식이 강조된 쾌락주의적, 반권위주의적 정체성을 주장한다. 섹슈얼리티에 있어, 시선, 권력, 쾌락의 주체가 됨으로써, 미적 범주에 있어 선악, 미추, 정숙성과 비정숙성의 이분법을 해체함으로써, 유동적 자아를 구성한 마돈나 의상의 포스트모던 정체성은 여성에게 확대된 가능성을 제공하며 내부로부터 해체된 열린 복식을 지향한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 2007

[ $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ ]Look style has been showing up continuously since 1980s in the fashion world. In response to that, this study aimed to look into the trend of design in 1960s and examine the formative artistic characteristics in $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look in order to explore the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look of Andre Courregs. Following the flow of the times, the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$'s design has transformed and developed through the styles of the pants suit look, the space age look, the mini look and the sporty look. His own style constructed by simple line like a mini skirts, accurate rates, geometric patterns, high tech materials, vivid color and etc, in 1960s. He has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style was expressed by pure&avant-garde style, sporty&modern style, cheerful&reveal style and dynamic&funny style. Functionality with humor to $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ was an important element that expresses both youth and casual. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a futuristic sensibility is expressed in the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.39-40
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• 2003

메이크업(Make up)은 일상생활에서 여성들의 전체 ‘룩(Look)’을 구성하는데 없어서는 안될 중요한 요소이다. 여성들은 상황에 맞게 자신들의 의상을 선택하고 머리손질을 하며 화장을 한다. 제니퍼 크레이크(2001)는 ‘화장은 인격과 지위라는 속성뿐 아니라 성적 속성을 구성한다’고 밝히면서 메이크업을 여성성 표현을 위한 바디테크닉의 하나로 간주했다. 즉, 여성들은 메이크업을 통해 여성들만이 가지는 특유의 미를 발산함으로써 자기만족과 이성에 대한 관심을 유도한다. (중략)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.634-645
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop cruise look design inspired by the ocean life motif using by computer CAD system. Domestic and international brands were selected for this study researching cruise line collection. A variety of literature and online site for concept of cruise look and sustainable design was studied. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for cruise look design through analysis of 07/08 S/S trend. The diffusion of cruise look reflects a societal trend to be changed life pattern. The results of this study are as below. First, as this society has become modernized with advancement of technology, people have been increasingly interested in the pursuit of happiness and the concept of 'quality of life', thereby creating a new trend of consumption culture. As a result, fashion market place changed targeting sensible and self-enrichment customers. Second, as combining rapid technological innovation and mass production, industrial design caused environmental pollution and the problems are being worsen. Fashion design has same problems and led to eco-friendly design by the large. Third, as the change of style influenced by economic and social condition, cruise look re-defined and became more common. The change of various fields led to fashion market place should be changed. The cruise look design using computer program will give more benefits to many designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.792-804
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• 2004

Sportism is continuously expressed in every season in a different theme and established as a Mega-Trend of the early 21 th century fashion. This study was conducted to research the social and cultural sources of the sportism expressed in the early 21th century fashion. This study focused on hybrid as one of the post-modem phenomena. By analysing social and cultural sources of the sportism, three aspects were found; first, many different fashion trends are coincides in post-modem society, which is possible and accelerated by hybrid each other. Second, the complicated and competitive society urge the people to review the past and the originality. Third, youth-oriented and individualistic lifestyle was brought by the development of the technology and economic surplus. Hybrid of the TPO was analysed which made the sportism mega-trend. 'Formal wear was mixed with casual wear, casual wear with active sportswear, hi-fashion with street fashion, and hi-fashion influenced formal and casual wear again'. The sportism prevalent in 21th century fashion can be explained by this system of hybrid. Results of the analysis in this study can be categorized into four aesthetic values based on hybrid of the styles, which are glamorous sportism, romantic sportism, minimal sportism, and heritage sportism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.529-541
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion, leading the fashion trend and one of the most influenced designers in 1990's, and thereby, helps to forecast them in the future. We studied the concept of sports fashion and the historic background of PRADA sports fashion. We also used corroborative method resolving Internet illustrated magazine, fashion journals and magazines so as to analyze the aesthetic and formative features from 1990's up to now. The results were summarized as follows ; The sports fashion in 1990's was classified into functional sportswear and town sports look. The functional sportswear can be separated into active sportswear and street sportswear. Town sports look that has been combined the elements of design in active sportswear had characters slim silhouette and simple details influenced by minimalism and reflected on the mainstream of 1990's lifestyle. Especially, PRADA's town-wear using high-tec textiles for sportswear affected on other couturiers and settled down them in the world wide fashion trend with her aesthetic expression. The aesthetic characteristics of PRADA's sports fashion appear the zenith of the minimalism and the elements of postmodernism which expressed remarkably the advanced future and familiar past at the same time as like high-tec materials, and classic silhouettes with functional details. Finally, we are able to anticipate that the aesthetics of PRADA sports look will be continued in the 21C with concerning about well-being, health, and sports & leisure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.77-87
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• 2008

Modern fashion industry creates complex and multiple fashion by amalgamating and mixing all elements that emerged in fashion without limiting them to a specific genre. The results of study are as follows: First, with regard to the conceptual differences among poor look, anti-fashion, and resistance fashion and the background. second, As aesthetic categories of poor beauty, its image with the feeling of poorness, beggar-likeness, worthlessness, poorness, and uncleanness is divided into the beauty of moderation, deconstruction, unfinished beauty, natural beauty, and ostentatious poor beauty based on the formative characteristics and poor look. Third, Oriental and Western poor images are comparatively analyzed. The poor beauty found in Oriental fashion, which is based on Zen aesthetics, seeks loneliness, poorness, and simplicity as an empty origin and features internal meaning that expresses the purity of poor beauty itself and external form that is visualized through no decoration, no color, and asymmetry in material and composition. The poor beauty in the West features non-form of no shape, asymmetry and disharmony and the characteristic in its contents is "distortion", and the characteristic in its expression features external form of "incorrectness" and internal meaning implying modem humans' frustration, resistance to materialism, and skepticism about mechanicalism.