• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권8호
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• pp.1060-1068
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• 1998

The effects of various catalysts and softners on the anti-crease finish of ramie with glyoxal were investigated. A number of metal salts commonly used as Lewis acid catalysts in DP finishing of cotton with formaldehyde and N-methylol agents were screened for glyoxal treatment of ramie fabric. Various organic and inorganic acids were mixed with Lewis acid catalyst as co-catalysts to improve catalytic activity. As a result, the combination of aluminum sulfate and citric acid was proven highly effective in catalyzing the crosslinking of ramie cellulose by glyoxal under lower curing temperature. With a mixed catalyst, performance properties, such as whiteness and tearing strength as well as wrinkle recovery of treated ramie fabric were improved as compared with that treated with aluminum sulfate alone. Additional improvement of tearing strength and wrinkle recovery was achieved by applying silicons softner in the treatment bath.

• 한국감성과학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국감성과학회 1999년도 추계학술대회 논문집
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• pp.157-161
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• 1999

본 연구에서 직물의 열, 수분 전달특성과 KES-FB의 역학적 특성치, 직물표면의 fractal dimension을 측정하여 주관적 의복 착용 쾌적감을 예측하고자 하였다. 실험의복에 사용된 직물은 면 100% 평직물, 면/PET 혼방직물, 피치가공된 면/PET 혼방직물, PET 100% 평직물, 알칼리 감량가공된 PET 100% 크레이프 직물이었으며, 실험의복의 형태는 긴 소매 셔츠로 하였다. 착용실험은 온도 29$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$, 상대습도 75$\pm$2%RH, 기류 0.15m/s를 유지하는 항온항습실에서 실시하였고 36명의 여성 피험자(20-23세)들이 참여하였다. 의복 착용감의 하위 구성차원을 파악하기 위해 실험결과를 요인분석한 결과 5 개의 요인으로 추출되었다. 제 1 요인은 체온상승, 수분특성과 관련이 있는 온열.발한감이었으며, 제 2 요인은 무게ㆍ두께감, 제 3 요인은 회복특성감, 제 4 요인은 표면접촉감, 제 5 요인은 온냉감으로 구성되었다. 직물의 표면특성을 정량화하는 방법으로 도입한 fractal dimension 의 분석값들과 종래의 가장 보편적으로 이용되어 온 KES_FB 의 표면 특성치들이 주관적 착용쾌적감 예측에 얼마나 기여하는지 비교해 본 결과, 표면접촉감은 fractal dimension, 접촉점들의 총면적, 접촉점들의 평균 axis ratio, MMD, SMD와 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 또한 종합적 착용쾌적감에 대해서는 SMD 를 제외한 척도들이 유의한 상관을 보였으며, 그 중에서도 fractal dimension 과 접촉점들의 총면적은 0.8 이상의 높은 상관을 나타내었다. 착용쾌적감을 예측하기 위한 회귀분석결과에서는 fractal dimension 만으로 쾌적감의 74%가 설명되었으며 공기 투과도를 첨가하면 두 변수로 $R^2$=.792가 되었다. 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.tosterone농도는 107.7$\pm$12.0 pmol／l이었고, 남성의 타액내 농도는 274.2$\pm$22.1 pmol／l이었다. 이상의 결과로 보아 본 연구에서 정립된 EIA 방법은 RIA를 대신하여 소규모의 실험실에서도 활용할 수 있을 것으로 사려된다.또한 상실기 이후 배아에서 합성되며, 발생시기에 따라 그 영향이 다르고 팽창과 부화에 관여하는 것으로 사료된다. 더욱이, 조선의 ${\ulcorner}$구성교육${\lrcorner}$이 조선총독부의 관리하에서 실행되었다는 것을, 당시의 사범학교를 중심으로 한 교육조직을 기술한 문헌에 의해 규명시켰다.nd of letter design which represents -natural objects and was popular at the time of Yukjo Dynasty, and there are some documents of that period left both in Japan and Korea. "Hyojedo" in Korea is supposed to have been influenced by the letter design. Asite- is also considered to have been "Japanese Letter Jobcheso." Therefore, the purpose of this study is to look into the origin of the letter designs in t

• 복식
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• 제58권10호
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• pp.164-172
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• 2008

Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.9-16
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• 2008

Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.122-147
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• 2012

순천 송광사 소조사천왕상의 수리를 위한 조사과정에서 수습된 파편들로부터 과거에 사용된 채색안료에 대한 자연과학적 자료를 확보하고자 분석연구를 수행하였다. 순천 송광사 소조 사천왕상은 1628년 중조(重造)된 이래 1720년부터 1976년까지 7차례의 중수개채(重修改彩)가 이뤄졌기 때문에 이 기간 동안의 시대별 사용안료를 연구할 수 있는 훌륭한 자료가 될 수 있다. 분석은 사천왕상 중 서방광목천왕에서 이탈된 파편들을 대상으로 하였으며, 광학현미경, SEM-EDX, XRD를 이용하여 시편의 상태를 확인하고, 안료의 구성성분과 화합물을 분석하였다. 분석 대상 파편들에서는 갈색 점토띠가 있는 토층, 섬유질이 다량 함유된 토층, 조직이 성긴 한지, 조직이 치밀한 한지, 견직물, 마직물 등 6종의 재료가 확인되었다. 이 중 갈색 점토띠가 있는 토층은 소지부로 판단되며, 나머지 5종의 재료는 소조불의 중수개체 시 사용된 보수재료로 판단된다. 각 재료의 상 하부에 부착된 채색층에 대한 분석결과를 서로 비교한 결과, 각 재료들은 '소지부 ${\rightarrow}$ 조직이 성긴 한지 ${\rightarrow}$ 섬유질이 다량 함유된 토층 ${\rightarrow}$ 견직물 ${\rightarrow}$ 마직물 및 조직이 치밀한 한지'의 순으로 적용된 것으로 추정된다. 또한, 이들 보수재료들에 적용된 안료와 소조불의 중수개채시기를 고려하면 조직이 성긴 한지는 1720~1891년, 섬유질을 다량 함유한 토층은 1926년, 견직물과 마직물은 각각 1941년과 1976년에 적용된 것으로 추정된다. 각 시대별 사용 안료의 특징을 살펴보면, 1891년 이전에는 백색과 녹색으로 연백과 염기성염화동의 사용이 두드러지며, 1926년 이후에는 화록청, 군청, 바륨화이트와 아연화 등이 등장하고, 1976년을 전후해서는 지당과 합분(패각분)의 사용이 두드러지는 것을 확인할 수 있었다. 이상 소조상에 적용된 시대별 안료에 대한 추론 결과는 향후 사찰벽화나 단청 등의 근대 안료연구에 비교자료로서 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제25권2호
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

본 연구는 대전에서 출토된 조선시대 초중기의 여산송씨가 출토복식을 보존처리함에 있어 출토복식의 세척처리 현황을 조사하고 본 출토복식의 세척과정을 보고하여 앞으로 출토복식의 세척방안에 대한 자료로 제공하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 여산송씨 출토복식은 15세기의 남자복식과 16세기중후반의 남녀복식을 비교할 수 있는 좋은 자료가 되고 있다. 출토유물은 모두 184점이 출토되었으며 면, 견, 마, 교직물 등 다양한 직물이 있었다. 여산송씨 출토복식의 세척은 직물의 상태와 오염을 분석한 후 진공흡입에 의한 고형오염을 충분히 제거하고 습식세척과 건식세척방법을 시행하였으며 1, 2차로 진행되었다. 습식세척의 경우 음이온계 계면활성제(LAS)와 비이온계 계면활성제(Triton X-100)를 사용하였고 건식세척의 경우 n-hexane과 n-decane(4:6) 혼합용제 및 석유계 드라이클리닝용제를 사용하였다. 1차 세척 후 빠지지 않은 얼룩이 있는 면직물이나 마직물의 경우 표백처리를 실시하였으며 견직물 중 상태가 좋은 것은 유기용제에 의한 건식세척을 재실시하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.160-165
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• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.367-372
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• 2001

Five kinds of commercial ramie and hemp fabrics were treated with cellulase under different concentrations. Samples were mercerized before enzyme treatment to investigate the effect of mercerization on cellulase enzyme treatment. Physical characteristics(weight loss, tear strength retention, wrinkle recovery, drape stiffness, dyeability) of cellulase enzyme treated and untreated samples were measured and compared. X-ray diffractions were examined to verify if there were any changes in their crystallinity of enzyme treated fabrics. Weight loss, wrinkle recovery and degree of crystallinity increased as the concentration of cellulase enzyme increased. In the meanwhile, tear strength retention and drape stiffness and dyeability decreased. Enzyme activity was more effective on mercerized samples. Particularly, there was distinct tendency to increase weight loss and flexibility.