• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
• /
• 1999.03a
• /
• pp.219-219
• /
• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.93-102
• /
• 1998

In order to study on the bleaching efficiency of flex fabrics, ozone which has been produced by an ozone generator, has been contacted with flex fabrics in water at various conditions. The equipments used for the ozone reatment of flex fabrics were the ozone generator and a liquor/ozone contactor. For the study of the bleaching efficiency on flex fabrics, the Hunter's whiteness, tensile strength, microscopic properties of the ozone treated flex fabrics were measured. The concentration of generated ozone was increased, as the voltage increase, flow ratio decrease and oxygen amount increase. The bleaching efficiency of ozone treated fabrics was increased with increasing the net concentration of ozone. The whiteness ozone of treated fabrics was found to be best when treated temperature was $0-15^{\circ}C$ and treated time was 20 min. The tensile strength of treated fabrics decreased as the treating time increased, and as the temperature raised.

• Conservation Science in Museum
• /
• v.18
• /
• pp.19-34
• /
• 2017

Analysis of the species of wood in the wooden materials and the chemical composition of the fabric of the clothing excavated from the tomb of Yi Jing (1580-1642) has determined that the wooden materials, including the coffin (內棺, naegwan), burial chamber(外棺, oegwan), chilseongpan(七星板, bottom-lining board), and fan-shaped slats were made of pine(Pinus densiflora). The analysis of the fabrics suggested that the cloth attached to the fan-shaped slats, the funeral banner with inscriptions, and the five pouches for the corpse (五囊, onang) were all made of silk. The jacket was made of plain-weave cotton, while the inner and outer cloth of the socks were made of cotton and hemp, respectively. Among the silk items, the pouches for the left and right feet (constituting the five pouches for the corpse) were made from a satin-weave figured silk, while the other silk items were made of ju(紬), or plain-weave silk fabric. Infrared analysis revealed that the fan-shaped slats were decorated with cloud patterns across the entire surface, while the funeral banner and the five pouches for the corpse bore ink inscriptions.

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
• /
• 1997.04a
• /
• pp.165-169
• /
• 1997

• Proceedings of the Korean Fiber Society Conference
• /
• 1997.10a
• /
• pp.373-376
• /
• 1997

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.3
• /
• pp.486-493
• /
• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.411-411
• /
• 2000

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2007.11a
• /
• pp.95-96
• /
• 2007

• Conservation Science in Museum
• /
• v.14
• /
• pp.13-22
• /
• 2013

The Nectar Ritual Painting(Jeung7551) in National Museum of Korea is estimated to have been produced in the 16th century. Ezimagodo who is the head priest of Ruganji in Kyoto, Japan donated this painting in 2010. Overall, damages were serious, such as missing, staining, folding, insects of the face and mounting silk, therefore, it need to conservation treatment. The treatment of conservation in painting was removing surface stains and repairing missing area. It was mounted by following the original form. The analysis result of textile in mounting and support fiber used silk and hemp in microscope. Pigments in paint were divided into six color types. This painting was used that vermilion(cinnabar) and red lead for red color, litharge(massicot) and gold for yellow color, lead white for white color, malachite for green color, azurite for blue color, and carbon black(chinese ink) for black color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.41-53
• /
• 2012

Hwangnamdaechong Tomb (The 98th tomb in Hwangnam-dong), one of the royal tombs located around the area of royal tomb of King Michu in Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju, is currently designated as Historic Site No. 40. It is assumed that Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is a royal tomb of the early 5th century. This study aims to examine the fabric relics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb and currently housed in Gyeongju National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage. The types of fabrics excavated from Hwangdamdawchong Tomb include plain silk, warp-faced compound woven silk, and hemp cloth. Most of these fabrics are adhered to metal products that became rusty. Plain silk found in Hwangnamdaechong Tomb can be divided into four types by its weaving method. Geum excavated from Hwangnamdaechong Tomb is typical Gyeong Geum that uses colored warp for its base and pattern. It is plain Gyeong Geum that the binding weft and warp is plain woven. Although there are a lot of Gyeong Geum fabrics whose colors are hard to define due to yellowing after long years, there are still many fabrics whose color such as purple, red, blue, and green can be identified. As literatures have shown that p cloth as well as silk were frequently woven during Silla dynasty, tremendous amount of hemp cloth was excavated. Most of the hemp cloth has S-twist in the warp and 8-12 seung degree of delicacy.