어패럴 CAD SYSTEM을 이용한 남자 두루마기의 자동제도 및 그레이딩에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Automated Drawing and Grading of a man′s DURUMAGI by Apparel CAD SYSTEM)
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- 한국의류학회지
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- 제24권6호
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- pp.799-809
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- 2000
This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok
For a pattern to be a scientific and reasonable drafting method. it should be based on the human body, have fewer measuring items, be easy to learn, and be able to make good-looking clothing that fits many people. Therefore, the height, foot length and circle radius in the Durumagi drafted in this study examined to improved the drafting method for Korean Durumagi. As a result, a pattern drafting method was developed in which Moo, Gutsup, Ansup and length of clothing were naturally derived according to the size of individuals.
So far, the graphics of Korean clothing have focused on maintenance of forms without specific improvement. In particular, in the archetypal design of a Jeogori, ambiguous standards on the overlapping of left and right collars and collar strips cause problems in the teaching and teaming of Korean traditional clothing. As a result, the graphics of men's Durumagis based on a Korean Jeogori have the same problems as Jeogoris and the connection between them has not been sufficiently studied. Design of "Moo" in respect to graphics of men's Durumagis has its own calculation equation or measures, but they can not be generalized. This study therefore considers the existing graphics of men's Durumagis or approaches of Moo in different angles by reviewing the connection between Durumagis and Jeogoris. Therefore, archetypal forms of Durumagis are designed with a radius of a circle using one's height and the girth of one's chest, which contributes to symmetry of the collars and teaming effects through scientific graphics of "Moo." It is further expected that can be mass-produced through archetypal design of overcoats and graphics of "Moo" of Durumagis that can be standardized as well as connection between graphics of Jeogoris and Jeogoris.
The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of women's Dooroomaky. The following results were given through utilizing the Computer in pattern making of Dooroomaky for women. 1. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. 2. Basic pattern was drafted by the hand-operation. In this study, this Dooroomaky basic pattern was selected. And a computer program for drafting was developed. Refer to