• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.8 s.145
• /
• pp.1158-1167
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.6
• /
• pp.1050-1059
• /
• 2017

Drying processes often cause knitted fabrics to shrink. This study obtains proper drying conditions for in the dryer use that can minimize knitted fabric shrinkage by investigating changes in shrinkage according to drying conditions. The experiment samples were all machine washable plain, mesh, and lacoste knitted fabrics made of 100% cotton. Samples were first washed in a washing machine on a normal cycle. They were then layered on a flat surface in an artificial climate chamber and dried for 24 hours at $20^{\circ}C$ and $40^{\circ}C$, respectively. Shrinkage was measured for 180 minutes at 30 minute intervals after washing. The comparison results of the shrinkage in the washing and drying process indicate that 80.0% and 23.0% shrinkage of plain knitted and lacoste knitted fabrics occurred during the washing process. As the samples dried, the shrinkage of the plain and lacoste knitted fabrics then rapidly increased after approximately 30.0% moisture content. The highest air drying shrinkage occurred over one cycle with insignificant changes in shrinkage after repeated treatments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.2 s.67
• /
• pp.299-310
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop wool knitted Jacket pattern suited for Middle-aged women's body shape. The usable data of first and second wearing test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics(frequency and one way- ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: 1. It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B were better than the rest of them. 2. It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket B with milano were better than the rest of them. Therefore, it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. 3. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it is necessary that knitted jacket follow a similar size tolerance such as a woven jacket.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.13 no.6 s.59
• /
• pp.896-909
• /
• 2005

In need of studies on the kinds and structure of thread, the biggest variable factor in knitwear patterns, this study attempts: to examine the physical properties by thread type to basically establish systematic data in order to utilize various mixture and structure of yarn and to contribute to the development of optical patterns by building a systemic and scientific methods to produce knit wear patterns though a statistical analysis of the relation between the variations and physical properties. The results is as follows: with time, a feature of knit, which causes instability making it difficult to maintain the original shape, related to material properties, the weight and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the variation of wale lengths, though the amount varies by material. The variation of course contraction is closely related to density, the dense fabrics showing the highest values, due to the bust of the human body, the wale length variation of the front is greater than that of the back, by a regression analysis of material properties and the variations is obtained showing the weight, density and expansibility recovery rate have the greatest influence on the wale extension and course contraction of knit.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.17-25
• /
• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.277-285
• /
• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.14 no.2
• /
• pp.127-145
• /
• 2012

In an effort to investigate the overall trends of knit fabrics in fashion trends books, this study analyzed the components(fabric, yarn, gauge, thickness, knitting structure, pattern, dyeing and finishing) of knit fabrics in fashion trends books by the years and seasons from the S/S season of 2002 to the F/W season of 2011. Analyzed in the study were total 883 knit fabrics including the knit samples in Nelly Rodi Knitwear and Promostyl Fabrics. Collected data were put to frequency analysis with SPSS 12.0. Group mean analysis was also performed for thickness. The research results were as follows: As for knit fabrics in fashion trend books by the years and seasons, knit fabrics were most used in 2004 with similar frequency of knit fabrics among the seasons. As for fabric composition of knit fabrics, the uses of blend fabrics were considerably prominent both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2003 and the F/W season of 2002. As for gauge composition of knit fabrics, S/S seasons saw the most uses of fine G of 20G or higher, while F/W seasons saw the many uses of 12G-18G, which showed the highest frequency in 2002. As for knitting structure of knit fabrics, the plain stitch was used most both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2011 and the F/W season of 2007. As for pattern of knit fabrics, stripes and solid patterns were used most regardless of seasons. As for dyeing and finishing of knit fabrics, non-processed fabrics were used most, recording high frequency in the early 2000s.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
• /
• 2011.03a
• /
• pp.86-86
• /
• 2011

나노소재기술은 기존 소재로는 얻을 수 없는 새로운 기능 및 특성을 나타낼 수 있어 산업전반에 적용할 수 있는 최첨단집적기술이다. 그러나 나노입자를 섬유에 첨가하여 기능성 섬유를 생산하는 경우 응집이 발생하는 등의 다양한 문제점이 발생하는데 이를 극복하기 위해서는 사이즈 분포를 제어하는 기술, 표면처리를 통해 분산성을 향상시키는 기술, 나노입자와 섬유와의 상용성을 개선하는 기술 등이 해결되어야 한다. 본 연구에서는 고기능성 및 고부가가치 경편파일 니트 원단을 개발하기 위해 은(Silver) 나노입자가 균일하게 분산된 M/B(Master Batch)를 제조하였으며, 이를 PET와의 용융 혼합 방사함으로써 0.5denier(75D/144F)급 원사에 99.9%의 영구적인 항균/소취 기능을 부여하였다. 또한 개발된 극세사를 이용하여 다양한 경편파일 원단을 설계하고, 기모, 염색 및 날염 등의 공정을 거쳐 나노기술융합형 화학섬유소재를 이용한 기능성 침장 제품을 개발하였다.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.225-236
• /
• 1996

Computer simulation methods for three area of textile design, wearing, and design were developed by using CAD system, and its results were applied to pattern design simulation. Textile design created by using the CAD system was applied to T-shirt schematization. Created wearing, printing, and knitting design respectively were applied to women clothing, children's wear, and men sweater. In this rearch, several equipped since various color working, materials, pattern development and swift intention decision of goods direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because spot direction are possible on the moniter. Third, many goods order are rushed within short time because intention decision of buyer could be induced and embodied design almost reflection the buyer's will on the spot before production of goods and samples. Forth, time and expense were saved to get the information in terms of design information systematically and could be managed annually. Fifth, creative design development can be not only availed but saved the service expense of outside orders and the traffic expense.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.14 no.4
• /
• pp.665-671
• /
• 2005

This study aims to examine the effect of structural properties, subjective textures, sensibilities, and objective handle on the preference for weft knit fabrics, and then to provide useful information in planning and designing knit fabrics through predicting the preference. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of wool/rayon fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. For the subjective evaluation of textures, sensibilities, and preference, we used the questionnaire that had been developed in the previous study. The data analysis was conducted with Pearson's correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncann multiple range test and regression analysis. The results are as follows: In relationship of structural properties and preference, we could not recognize any difference in whole ranges of wool/ rayon fiber contents and in 7.5mm and less stitch loop length. On the other hand, we could find the decrease of preference in over 7.5mm stitch loop length. As to subjective textures and sensibilities, a multiple regression analysis of preference indicated a higher determination coefficient by sensibilities than by textures. But there were little correlation between a objective handle and preference of weft knit fabrics.