• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.162-175
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• 2010

An important change started in knitwear fashion in the 1980s. Advanced designers in Japan began to provide a new interpretation on knitwear, and seamless knitwear based on computerized machinery appeared. Knitwear fashion showed differences starting the 1980s due to this change. In this regard, the study aimed to analyze knitwear fashion after the 1980s where the contemporary knitwear experienced changes to define characteristics of modern knitwear fashion and examine its inherent formative nature. Designs for 30 years from 1980s up to date have been analyzed by 10 years in order to identify the characteristics of knitwear fashion over time. In particular, formative characteristics of modern knitwear fashion have been analyzed in more depth with a focus on the period from 2001 through 2010 by narrowing the whole period. Insufficient domestic literatures and visual materials led the study to mostly use foreign books and internet sites. Insights of 7 professionals who have engaged themselves in knitwear industry over 10 years have been incorporated into this study, which will enhance the reliability of the formative analysis. As a result, the data have been organized into three tools of analysis, including exposed bodies, transformed bodies and natural bodies from the perspectives of expression and silhouette of body, and the features of flexibility, industrial artistry, innovation and sensuality have been highlighted in terms of formativeness. In this regard, it has been confirmed that the formative nature found in the knitwear fashion exists in the scope of the formative nature in the embryonic period of the knitwear fashion. It means that the formative nature of knitwear fashion contains perpetuity that transcends an age.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.295-304
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• 2015

This paper investigated wear comfort property of heat storage knitted fabrics for high emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was prepared and various physical properties such as thermal, wicking and drying characteristics were measured. In addition, far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded PET was analysed and tactile hand property and dye affinity of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric were also studied in comparison with regular and other commercial heat storage PET knitted fabrics. It was observed that Zr imbedded amount in the yarn was 19.29% by ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission energy was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, emissivity was 0.906 at the range of wavelength $6{\sim}20{\mu}m$. It was found that maximum heat flow (Qmax) of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular PET one, which means ZrC imbedded PET have heat storage property. Drying property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was better than that of regular PET one due to heat by far-infrared emitted from ZrC in the core of filament. It revealed that wicking property of the ZrC imbedded fabric was not influenced by far-infrared emission, but affected by fibre physical properties. Tactile hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not influenced by imbedding ZrC in the filament but affected preferably by structure of knitted fabric. Dye affinity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was less influenced by dyeing temperature and time than regular PET knitted one.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.151-162
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• 2012

The industry-wide development of digital technologies has also affected the textile and fashion industries immensely. The applications of 3D technology, virtual reality, and/or augmented reality systems have helped to create novel fashion brands based on the marriage of IT and textile/fashion industries. 3D digital virtual clothing systems have been developed to help the textile and fashion industries in terms of the planning, manufacturing, marketing and sales sectors. So far, most of the development effort for the 3d virtual clothing systems has been focused on the woven fabrics. The characteristics of woven fabrics differ from those of knitted fabric. Since the physical structures and mechanical properties of the knitted fabrics are definitely different from those of woven fabrics, the simulation process for the knitted fabrics should follow different approaches. The loops in a knitted fabric deform easily. The deformation results in a readily stretchable fabric appearance. Cloth simulation mostly employs models that approximate the mechanical properties of linear elastic planes. This simulation scheme does not, however, describe well enough the behavior of knitted fabrics, which deviate largely from the linear isotropic material characteristics. This study aims at characterizing the tensile deformation and surface textures of a knitted fabric product. Tensile deformation curves for the wale, course, and bias direction are analyzed. The surface texture of the knitted fabric is analyzed by using a 3-dimensional scanning device.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.229-235
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• 2014

This study conducted a research on burn-out printing convergence technology for cellulose blend knit fabrics. Printing technology, which forms color pattern on the fabric, can be generally classified into four according to printer or printing method, e.g. screen printing, roller printing, rotary printing, digital printing. However, these printing methods are flat in design or pattern, which have limitation to overcome monotonousness of fabric, so that recently burn-out process method, which expresses three-dimensional pattern effect by treating chemical on the surface of fabric as the method to appeal its esthetics to the customers. Particularly, in case of cellulose/polyester composite material, first, it is proceeded in 2 processes, by dyeing cellulose or polyester fabric and burning out cellulose fabric, in this process, due to pollution caused by disperse dye migration, color of polyester fabric part could be discolored, which has high falt risk. This research considered coloring burn-out technique, which simultaneously proceed dyeing and burn-out by reducing dyeing and burn-out process to 1 stage, which were proceeded in 2 stages previously. As the research result, it was confirmed that reasonable depth of roller was 0.04~0.06mm in roller printing process, heat treatment condition of burn-out far-infrared radiation was $185^{\circ}C{\times}30m/min$. Color fastness to washing was confirmed to be 4-5 grade, color fastness to rubbing, 3-4 grade, color fastness to light, 4 grade. Also, it was confirmed that energy reduction effect appeared 38.19%, in case of energy cost per yard compared to the existing production, also, 19.74%, in case of production cost.

• Journal of Korean Society of Forest Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 1974

In order to improve decaying properties of the plywood the effectiveness of the Malenit treatment on the shear strength and decaying properties of the plywood has been investigated. The results are as follows. 1. No decrease of the shear strength of the plywood has shown despite of whether plywood treated with malenit right after plywood made or veneer treated with the same preservative prior to plywood manufactured. 2. The effectiveness of Malenit treatment on decaying property of the plywood has shown much greater than that of the untreated plywood and red pine sapwood. 3. Weight decreases of the test specimens due to the infection of the different fungi have seen in different ways. If fungi infected are all different in kinds, weight decreases of the specimens are different in it's degree due to the fungi.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.57 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 2019

The use of standardized stitches in globalized apparel markets is becoming increasingly important. However, many apparel vendors still use disunified stitches, such as Japanese and English. This study analyzes the usage of clothing stitches of cut and sewn knit garment fabrication of small companies. The results of the analysis of 464 worksheets of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, of the 464 worksheets, only 4.31% are labeled as ISO 4915 No. Among the 1,399 stitches, only 3.15% were marked with the ISO 4915 No. Second, among 1,399 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401 was the most frequently used. Third, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was used the most; in addition, ISO 4915 No. 401, 301 and 304 were also frequently used. Fourth, in the case of the bottoms, the stitch with the highest frequency was ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by ISO 4915 No. 103 and 401, respectively. Fifth, in the case of the top, ISO 4915 No. 406 was most commonly used in hemlines and sleeve edges; in addition, in the case of the bottoms, ISO 4915 No. 406 and 103 were most commonly used as hemlines. In conclusion, it is important to use international standard stitches, especially for the most frequently used stitches. By using the standard stitches, the communication errors between production departments can be reduced and information can be accurately delivered.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.787-800
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• 2020

This study aims to derive the criteria of folding techniques and their characteristics through analysis of literature and previous studies. This will be realized by performing a case study on male fashion design and folding. It will propose diverse directions and data for male fashion design, by making men's jackets using a folding technique. The concept and terms of folding were clarified through examination of existing literature and previous studies. Specifically, four pieces were created with motifs of the four seasons. Among the types of pleats expressed in the works, composition pleats include double ruffles, gathers, and draperies, while processed ones include box pleats, knife pleats, and accordion pleats. This study expresses continuity, fluidity, scalability, and ambiguity through the use of such pleats. The results of the production are as follows. First, in terms of the continuous use of regular and repetitive pleats, a possibility of rich pleats was confirmed because they varied depending on the gap between the pleat and target material. Second, in liquid but irregular pleats, diverse moods were created by the pleat movement. The overlapping of repeated pleats expresses diverse spaces and shapes in a 3D extended silhouette. Third, in pleat classification, ambiguity was confirmed with the use of continuous accordion pleats in the printed gradation fabric. It is anticipated that more diverse and creative designs could be created using more extended techniques in future studies.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.19 no.11
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• pp.445-456
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to identify the importance of variables affecting women's golf wear sales with macroeconomic variables and consumer selling prices that affect consumers' purchasing behavior, and to propose a price strategy to increase sales of golf wear. Data of domestic women's golf wear brands were analyzed using decision tree algorithms and ensemble. Consumer selling price is the most significant factors in terms of sales volume for T-shirt, pants and knit, while categories were found to be the most important factors in addition to consumer sales prices for skirt and one piece dress. These findings suggest that items have different economic variables that affect consumers' purchasing behavior, suggesting that sales and profits can be maximized through appropriate price strategies.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.381-402
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• 2022

This study aimed to identify sub-dimensions of the authenticity and fictionality of a brand story and analyze the effects of authenticity and fictionality on customer-based brand equity. Data were obtained from a group of 213 males and females in their 20s and 30s living in Korea using an online survey institute. Results showed that the authenticity and fictionality of a brand story are composed of reality, excitement, exaggeration, fictional symbolism, influence, sincerity, relativeness, mysteriousness, and unreality. Of these, sincerity, excitement, reality, influence, and mysteriousness had significant effects on brand imagery; sincerity particularly exerted a relatively more substantial influence on brand imagery. Also, influence, mysteriousness, excitement, and relativeness impacted performance positively, and exaggeration impacted performance negatively. This indicated that a well-constructed brand story with authenticity and fictionality had a positive impact on the brand image. Excitement, mysteriousness, reality, relativeness, sincerity, and influence of a brand story had significant effects on brand judgement. In contrast, only excitement and influence positively impacted brand feelings, and unreality had a negative impact on feelings. The exciting and influential brand story impacted brand attitude. Also, brand image and attitude positively impacted sharing and purchase intention, while brand performance did not affect recommendation intention. These findings contribute to identifying a brand story's attributes, authenticity, and fictionality and provide insights for marketers on creating brand stories to increase brand image and attitude and to build customer-based brand equity.