Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.13
no.1
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pp.113-123
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2011
The purposes of this study were to re-interpret the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns from a modern point of view and use them in apparel textile design. A literature review of the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns was made first, and then, through manual and Photoshop workings, two apparel textile designs were suggested. The results were as follows. First, Traditional Korean Paintings of Birds and Flowers are covered not only by decorative beauty but also by the common pure hope and ideology of loving and adoring nature, which is inherent in the symbolism and racial characteristics and high aesthetic sense appeared by ancestors' life feeling. The meaning that is symbolized by each subject matter appearing in the Transcontinental Painting of Bird and Flower is important, but the ancestors' deeper and affectionate desire is shown in the harmony and happy aspect of a picture where more than two subject matters appear, such as Song Hak do where pine is with crane, cockscomb with chicken, bamboo with beacon fire, or a couple of them with flower. Second, two kinds of textile designs were suggested. The motif of work 1 targeted professional women of activity and individuality in their late 30s to early 40s. The lotus blossom pattern was selected to present its concept, "Chic Elegance." The motif of work 2 targeted intelligent women in their mid 40s, and the peony blossom was selected to present its concept, "Romantic Elegance."
This kind of goal orientation in Art Nouveau has provided nature-friendly designs to modern people living in a post-industrial society. For these people who want to have their own style in a natural and comfortable space and take a break from daily hectic daily routines for a moment, hair-by-night styles were created by adding the images of Greek goddesses to the nature-friendly features of Art Nouveau patterns known as 'flower pattern', 'wave pattern', and 'vine pattern'. In terms of the scope of this paper, four designs (Eos, Hestia, Artemis and Demeter) were created by using Art Nouveau patterns which are connected with flowers in an organic manner based on Rene Lalique and Emile Galle patterns.
The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.
Kim, Chon-Ho;Kaneko, Kentaro;Sumino, Takeshi;Kaneda, Takashi
Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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v.8
no.2
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pp.139-146
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1993
The predeccessor of Danjanjinja was Myorak temple which is built in the 7th century. At that age, the Buddhist culture of Japan had highly prospected by transmitting Buddhism to Japan from Han peninsular On the other hand, the private god of Fujiwara family in Danjanjinja is Uchigami which is one of typical Japanese popular belief like Dangshin of Korean's. Through these historical background, it could by presumed that the Kakitsisai might be the original form of Korean Buddhist sacrificial offerings from ancient age. So this study on Kakitsisai what had handed down from generation to generation about for 1300 years help us to study and estimate the ancient dietary culture of Korean and Japanese. 1. Kakitsisai performed high filling method in the sacrificial offerings like Kasuga, Horyuji and Korea. 2. The patterns and colors of high filling offerings are various in Korea and Japan. 3. They used unpolished rice by ancient rice, and called red and black one. We can guess both of countries ate unpolished rice at that age. 4. They used many kind of ancient wild fruits and vegetables. We could recognize what the ancients had eaten the foods.
A spirit tablet of king Guan Yu is enshrined in Donggwanwangmyo shrine[East Shrine of King Guan Yu], which houses 51 hanging boards. The hanging boards were written by the kings of Joseon Dynasty and envoys and generals of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Most studies on hanging boards have been focused on the collections of the palaces but not on those in Donggwanwangmyo shrine. In this regard, this study researches the hanging boards of the kings' writings in the late Joseon period and analyzes their forms and contents. In terms of contents, it examines who made the boards, when they made them, and what brought them to make them, etc. This study analyzes the forms of hanging boards by types, used materials, and periodic transition of forms. The findings are as follows. First, Donggwanwangmyo shrine houses 7 pieces of hanging boards inscribed with kings' handwriting: one piece of King Sukjong, 4 pieces of King Yeongjo, and 2 pieces of Emperor Gojong. They are divided into two types: one is the name of the buildings and the other is the poems that the kings wrote regarding what they felt when they visited the shrine. Especially, the latter were written by the kings who visited the shrine in spring and autumn. The kings intended to promote peace of royal family through a sense of royalty and fidelity of King Guan Yu. Second, the hanging boards of the kings are differentiated from those of the envoys and generals of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in materials and forms. The background of the board is colored by blue, deep red lacquer color, and black lacquer color, which are more expensive than black color or white color. The hanging boards are embossed with the kings' handwritings and then colored with gold. The frame-style four-side hanging board is held at a 45-degree angle and painted with floral patterns and seven-treasure patterns in Dancheong technique. The left and right sides and the top and bottom sides of the board are decorated with Dang-cho pattern(Korean arabesque pattern). This style is called "quadrilateral"and considered the most classy and top-class among the other three ones. In conclusion, this study confirms the status of Donggwanwangmyo shrine with hanging boards inscribed with kings' handwritings as a political space where kings had interest and demanded their soldiers' royalty and fidelity. Research into the boards inscribed with the handwritings of envoys of the Ming Dynasty and generals of the Qing Dynasty, and the comparison of the styles and periodic transition of forms will be reserved for another study.
Few data on the epigraph from the Bal-Hae Dynasty have been reported so far. The present paper, based on an examination of the style of the epitaphic tombstones of Princess Jeong-Hye and Princess Jeong-Hyo, investigates the historical formation and characteristics of Balhae's epitaphic style and its influences on the posterior periods. The epitaphs from the Bal-Hae Dynasty have the following epigraphic characteristics and historical significances. First, Bal-Hae's epitaphs are similar to those from the Goguryeo Dynasty in the sense that they are angular in their form. Tombstones with angular head first appeared during the East Han period. During the Wi-Jin period, however, as tombstones were not allowed to be erected in front of the tomb, small-sized epitaphic tombstones were set up inside tombs. Typical tombstones from the Dang Dynasty had stone pole and square cover. Unlike those from the Dang and the Tong-Il Silla Dynasties, however, the epitaphs from Bal-Hae had angular head in their tombstone body. The Bal-Hae's angular headed tombstones are very likely to testify that Goguryeo's epitaphs, which features an influence from the Wi-Jin Nambuk-Jo period, in turn exerted an effect on those from the Bal-Hae Dynasty. Second, Bal-Hae's epitaphic tombstones are characterized by their hexagonal head,which were modified from the then typical pentagonal head by cutting out the sharp point. The hexagonal head, which has not been found in its neighboring countries during the same historical period, is peculiar to the epitaphic tombstones from the Bal-Hae Dynasty. Third, the edge lines and ornamental figures first appeared in Bal-Hae's epitaphic tombstones, as seen in those of Princess Jeong-Hye. In the fa?ade of the epitaphic tombstone, a carved line demarcates its rectangular body and trapezoidal head. Four faces of the body stonehave two parallel lines in their edges within which vignette was inscribed, and the trapezoidal head part was ornamented with flower figures. Fourth, Bal-Hae's epitaphic tombstone had an extensive influence on the posterior countries in its neighborhood. The epitaphic tombstones in the Bal-Hae style are very often found in those of the Goryeo Dynasty and the Yo Dynasty which were greatly influenced from Bal-Hae. The vestiges of Bal-Hae's epitaphic style are also found in those from the Song, the Geum, and the Won Dynasties.
The royal court of Joseon had a tradition of mounting the Irworobongdo, a painting of the sun, the moon and the five sacred peaks, symbols of the king's immortal presence and authority, on a folding screen and placing it in special spaces within the palace that were reserved for the king. While the Irworobongdo is generally accepted as the important ceremonial object of the royal palaces of Joseon, there have been few studies on the various folding screens used in the royal palaces, largely because the official records about such screens do not match the remaining original relics. In this study, the main discussion is focused on the diversity of the shapes and mounting materials of the Irworobongdoused for various ceremonies held in the royal palaces of Joseon based on the Uigwe, the official records of the royal protocols of the Joseon dynasty. The discussion also extends to the theme rarely studied so far, namely the original form of the Irworobongdo and its evolution in the following period. The ceremonial "five peak" folding screens (Obongbyeong) used at a number of important palace buildings, including the crown hall (Jeongjeon), royal funerary hall (Binjeon), spirit hall (Honjeon) and portrait shrine (Jinjeon), differed in shape and size from the folding screens used in royal celebratory events such as banquets, although the paintings themselves and the style of mounting them were essentially the same. The paintings were mounted on screens bordered with green silk and ornamented with floral gilt designs. The folding screens used in royal ceremonies were produced according to strict guidelines that required the ceremonies and mounting materials to be graded on the basis of the status of each screen. It was not until the 1960s that these ceremonial folding screens of the Joseon dynasty, which had been neglected during the period of Japanese colonial rule of Korea, began to undergo conservation treatment provided as part of a heritage preservation program. Unfortunately, many of the screens repaired in this period lost some of their original features - largely due to the use of non-traditional mounting techniques. Considering, however, that significant achievements have since been made in the heritage preservation field based on the use of historical evidence, it is now necessary to systematically use the repair history of the information about the remaining royal ceremonial folding screens to ensure that they are preserved and managed more effectively in the future.
The use of royal artificial flowers was finally found through schematics and records in Wonhaeng Eulmyojeongri Uigwe, which organized the procession to Hwaseong in 1795. The results of classifying the uses of artificial flowers in the brthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall in 1795 and considering the shape, user, and usage are as follows. According to literature records, artificial flowers were made with high-quality materials such as gold, silver, and silk thread in the early period, but were mainly made of paper in the later period. Artificial flowers were used for decorating official hats, Bongsudang Hall, and banquet tables. The Sagwonhwa was used for decoration of the official hats of members of the royal family, and the one on the top was called Eosam-Sagwonhwa. At the birthday banquet inBongsudang Hall, King Jeongjo and Hyegyeonggung used the Eosam-Sagwonhwa and put it on the right side of the official hats. Officials put peach blossom with two petals on the left side of the official hats for decoration. The artificial flowers for decoration of the official hats of musicians and dancers were more expensive and flashier than the officials' ones. Depending on the dance, several artificial flowers were inserted into the official hats. When measuring the size of artificial flowers, the scale used was when making a ceremonial article. For artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet hall, red and white peach blossoms were placed in two jars with dragons painted on them and them placed on two red-painted tables, respectively. The table and jar with flowers were tied together with a red cotton string and fixed so as not to fall over. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of King Jeongjo, Hyegyeonggung, and the king's sisters were a large lotus, medium-sized lotus, peony, rose, and specially made peach flowers. The artificial flowers for decoration of the banquet table of guests and officials were small lotuses and peach blossoms. The artificial flowers used in the birthday banquet at Bongsudang Hall the most were peach blossoms, and peaches had the meaning of longevity and exorcism. It is expected that the above research results will be helpful in understanding the characteristics and usage of artificial flowers in the period of King Jeongjo and use in reproducing royal feasts and producing traditional cultural contents.
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