• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.05a
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• pp.28-28
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• 2004

본 연구는 문헌사료와 고분벽화를 토대로 고구려 관복 제도의 변천과정과 특징을 고찰한 것이다. 문헌에 나타난 고구려의 관복 제도를 살펴보면 의복은 유고제를 유지했으며 관등 고하에 따른 유고의 색채나 소재상의 규제는 보이지 않는다. 신분표시의 기능은 주로 관모가 담당했던 것으로 보이는데, 문헌에 나타난 3세기-7세기까지의 고구려 관모 제도를 고분벽화를 참조하며 고찰한 결과는 다음과 같다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.17-34
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• 2003

This paper investigates the rank system of official uniforms of Qing dynasty to analyze ethnic characteristics of the official uniforms. As a research document, Qing Huidian Tu(청회전도) has been used. The official uniforms of Qing dynasty were chao-fu(조복), ji-fu(길복), chang-fu(상복), hang-fu(행복), and yu-fu(우복), which were used in different occasions. Each of the five official uniforms had distinct items. For example, chao-fu(조복) consisted of four items: chao-guan(조관), chao-fu(조복), chao-dai(조대), and chao-zhu(조주), and ji-fu(길복) consisted of four items: ji-fu-guan(길복관), long-pao(용포), ji-fu-dai(길복대), and chao-zhu(조주). Each of these items had elements that made distinction between ranks. This research shows that the important elements to make distinction between ranks were textiles, precious stones, patterns and colors, and additionally the number of Bo(보) and the types of Bo(보) were used.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.180-203
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• 2020

In this study, the period before the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits was expressed in the acheongsaek-Heuk-Danryung was defined as the first period, and the costumes worn in portraits of meritorious vassals from Gaeguk (1392) in the early Joseon Dynasty to Jwali (1471) during the era of King Seongjong were reviewed. The portraits(1476) of Jeokgae meritorious vassals (1467) depicted as the Gwanbok of acheongsaek Heuk-Danryung were excluded. Among the copies that are currently considered to be portraits of meritorious vassals belonging to the first period, the portraits of Lee-je, Lee Cheon-woo, Ma Cheon-mok, Shin Suk-ju, Seol Gye-jo, and Lee Sung-won were selected, and the formative characteristics of Gwanbok components were examined. The Samo of Sam-Gongsin in the early Joseon Dynasty had a low height, a rounded end, and the side wings were narrow and short. However, since King Danjong, Jeongnan·Jwali meritorious vassals retained a higher form, and the side wings were twice as long. It was also confirmed that the pattern was not expressed in the side wings. The Danryung was expressed in light-colored Danryung without specific colors at the beginning of the country. After King Sejong, the Heuk-Danryung system for Yebok began, but it was not reflected in the Gwanbok of meritorious vassals' portraits, and was expressed as damhongsaek-Danryung after King Danjong. The pattern was not expressed on the exterior of the Danryung, and inner-wrinkled Mu was expressed on the side line. The Dapho and Cheolrik, the undergarments of the Danryung, were also confirmed as being blue (the Dapho) and green (the Cheolrik) after the Jeongnan meritorious vassals. The early Sam-Gongsin's Pumgye was expressed by rank belt, but as the system of rank badge was established after King Danjong, it began to express the Pumgye by rank badge and rank belt. Among the portraits of meritorious vassals, the rank badge was expressed only in the portrait of Sin Suk-ju, a Jeongnan meritorious vassal. As Hwaja worn on the Danryung, Heuk-hwa were confirmed in the Sam-Gongsin portraits of the early Joseon Dynasty. However, in the portraits of Jeongnan and Jwali meritorious vassals after King Danjong, the Baek-hwa was confirmed. In addition, in the seam parts of the Heuk-hwa and Baek-hwa identified in some portraits of meritorious vassals, Hwi decorated with yeongeumsa were identified, and it was found that the Hwaja decorated with Hwi were the Hyeopgeum-hwa worn by the 3rd rank and above.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.200-221
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• 2019

The National Hangeul Museum houses a document list of the wedding gifts that Queen Sunwon granted her royal son-in-law, Nam Nyeong-wie, in August 1837. A total of 55 items were recorded in Hangeul Gungseo style on yellow paper. This list included four types of government officials' uniforms, casual wear, accessories, etc. The results of studying the 19th-century male officials' uniforms through this historic record were as follows. The clothing record in the List of Wedding Gifts was more accurate than that in the Dukongongju Garyedeungrok. The four types of government official uniforms for Nam Nyeong-wie included jeobok, sangbok, sibok, and gongbok. For the joebok, there was geumkwan, daehong-hangrah joebok, baeksam, ahole, seodae, gakpae, peseul, paeok, husu, and mokhwa. The record of the List confirms that baeksam was used as jungdan for joebok. For the gongbok, there was daehong-hangrah gongbok, blue seolhancho duhgre, blue saenggyeonggwangju changui, and green waehangrah kurimae. The record of the List shows that the lining of the gongbok was duhgre, and confirms, for the first time, that changui and kurimae were worn inside the gongbok. For the sangbok, there was samo, ssanghakhyungbae embroidered with golden thread, dark green cloud patterned gapsa gwandae, blue cloud patterned gapsa duhgre, blue ssangmuncho changui, and Chinese purple hwamunsa kurimae. For the sibok, there was pink gwangsa gwandae, and blue gwangcho duhgre. For the lining, blue duhgre was used. Lastly, the fabrics used for those costumes were all suitable for the climate in August.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.4 s.152
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• pp.554-566
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• 2006

The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

A chronological classification of Sangbok(상복) and Sibok(시복) for officers in Joseon Dynasty is proposed in this paper. The classification results in four distinct periods according to the usage of Sangbok and Sibok as well as their colers and naming: 1) the mixed usage period, 2) the usage-differentiation period, 3) the name-differentiation period, and 4) name-reversal period. During the mixed usage period which lasted until the early 15th century, Sangbok and Sibok were used with no distinction. In the usage-differentiation period, the King Sejong first made a regulation on the use of colors of Dal-lyung according to the occasion and black colored uniforms were used only for daily cabinet meetings. In the 16th century, the names of Sangbok and Sibok began to be used distinctively: Sangbok for formal clothing in black color and Sibok for ordinary clothing in pink color This period is defined as the name-differentiation period in this paper. In the name-reversal period f·hick begun around the 17th century, the usages as well as the colors of Sangbok and Sibok are totally reversed because of some confusions of the understanding on the previous government publications. However, the distinction of formal clothing and ordinary clothing remained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.131-142
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• 2006

This research has been done based on the Jeon Si Gwa(田柴科) regulation, the monumental inscription material and the former studies. The background of adapting the official uniform regulation in the early Goryeo Dynasty has been surveyed. Differentiating criterion in the official uniform color like purple(紫衫), red(丹衫), red(緋衫), and green(綠衫) has been studied. The official rank had been classified by the color of the official uniform in the early Goryeo uniform regulation. The lower class had worn purple(紫衫). The purple wearing class had not been the government post but the official rank. Those who worked for the Palace had worn purple color since purple color represented the Imperial Palace on which TAI-IL(太一), that is, the highest one of gods dwelt. Those who had worn red(丹色) in the monumental inscription had worked for the job associated with the military service or Hanlim savant(翰林學士) of Kwangmun Academy(光文院) and Hanlim Academy(翰林元). Dan Seo(丹書) which recorded King's commands also means the monumental inscription. In the Goryeosa(高麗史), the military class had been only in Dan Sam(丹衫). That means those class worn Dan Sam(丹衫) could have been as the strong supportive class for the Dynasty. In the early Goryeo Dynasty, the four colored uniform regulation had followed the enforcing policy of the royal authority. It has been assumed that the uniform regulation had been used as a way of enrolling the new supporting class into the existing official system. Dan Sam(丹衫) which had been worn only in the early Goryeo can be seen as the special class for strengthening the royal authority.