• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.120-147
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• 2019

In this study, we divided the portraits in the reign of King Seonjo into those which were created before and after the Japanese invasion. We then examined various aspect of costumes expressed in the portraits of meritorious vassals. To analyze official uniforms (Heuk-Danryeung), we examined the Samo height; the side wings' type and pattern; the Danryeung pattern; the Mu style; the processing method of lateral lines in Danryeung the rank badge and rank belt, the color of Dabho and Cheolrik, which were undergarment of Danryeung and Heuk-wa. The meritorious vassals' portraits, prior to Imran, were analyzed with a portrait of Han Eung-in, a Gwang-kuk Pyeong-nan meritorious vassals. The Samo was the highest of the Choson dynasties, and the cloud and treasure pattern was identified on the side wings. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue(acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a large outward wrinkled Mu, and it had a wild goose badge (second rank) and a Sabgeumdae. It did not coincide with the Pumgye(Jaheondaebu) recorded in Gugjo-inmulgo. Reddish Dabho for Dangsang-kwan, green Cheolrik which was undergarment of Danryeung, and Heuk-wa. were identified. After the invasion of Japan, portraits of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals were analyzed through eighteen portraits, including Lee Hyeon-bok. After the invasion of the Japanese, the height of the Samo's top was much lower and the width of the side wings was wider than before the invasion of Japanese. The Heuk-Danryeung was a dark blue (acheongsaeg) Danryeung of manja-shaped cloud patterns with a stretching backward Mu. Rank badge and rank belts were almost identical with the record, but there were two exceptions (Sin-jab and Kim, Sae-sin). Therefore, it was reaffirmed that the meritorious vassals' portraits were drawn by the Pumgye at the time of appointment. Among the undergarments of Heuk-Danryeung, green Dabho(11), blue Dabho(4), reddish Dabho(3), and blue Cheolrik(10), green Cheolrik(6), reddish Cheolrik(1), and yucheongsaeg Cheolrik(1) were identified, However, it is suggested that the Dabho of Hoseong, Seonmu, and Cheong-nan meritorious vassals should be the reddish Dabho of Dangsang-kwan, which is the same as the previous Imran, and a green Cheolrik.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.23
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• pp.49-60
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• 2020

The wrapping cloth with Cloud and Treasures Pattern donated by the head house of the descendants of Lee Hangbok (1556-1618) at the National Museum of Korea underwent conservation treatment for its protection and display. It was then compared with other ancient fabric objects for dating and analysis of the design. The subjects of Cloud and Treasures Patterns of clothing excavated from tombs dated to some point between the birth and death of Lee Hangbok and with Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies from the same period from the late 16th and 18th centuries were compared. The results of comparison with relics with clear dating are as follows: First, The Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the late 16th and 17th centuries the differences in the proportion between the head and the tail of the cloud among. Second, the Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies and fabrics excavated from tombs dated no later than the early 1700s share similarities with the Cloud and Treasures Pattern on the donated wrapping cloth in terms of the arrangement and size of designs and the proportion between each portion of the design. Though the study failed to identify the exact use of the wrapping cloth, it was estimated to be produced in early 18th century when the portraits of Lee Hangbok were copied.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.96-121
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• 2014

Portrait of Sim Huisu is a seventeenth-century Joseon portrait of a meritorious vassal. The National Museum of Korea currently owns two portraits of Sim Huisu, which are the eldest son's family and by the eldest grandson of the family's second eldest son. Both were donated in 1980. Portraits were still in its original mounting, but the supporting silk had been damaged and stained in a flood. Conservation treatment was undertaken to restore the original style, and scientific analysis, such as, X-ray, XRD, XRF and Graff "C" stain, was conducted to study the materials and painting techniques. The support silk was found to be refined fibroin and a plain weave consisting of two weft threads and one warp thread. The lining papers were found to be bamboo fiber paper of first layer in China and Korean traditional mulberry paper in second. Various pigments were identified in the painting, including white lead, cinnabar, atacamite, ink stick, azurite, silver, and gold. The study also confirmed the use of the back painting, with colors such as white ^{White Lead}, green ^Atacamite, orange ^Minium, black ^{Ink Stick}, and yellow ^Dye. Also, it was found that stick ink or dye was used with white lead.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.9
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• pp.85-93
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• 2008

Conservation science team of the National Museum of Korea has conducted conservation treatment for 3 pieces of portraits as a part of project for publishing illustration book of relics of paintings and writings. Among them, portrait scroll of Jo Gyeong is a representative portrait of Seonmoogongsin rank in 17th century of Chosun, which was donated in 1997 and its whole body painted on silk was scrolled. This portrait was in poor state including the silk of portrait got loose from lining paper completely and exfoliation of the pigments. Accordingly before preservation treatment, production technique and the quality of the material lining were surveyed through scientific study(investigation through microscope, XRF, X-ray) and preservation treatment was conducted in order of disassembly, cleaning, removal of lining paper, infiling of the missing parts, lining, finishing.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.17
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• pp.69-84
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• 2016

Yuso is the term for decorative tassels of a braided string which hangs a scroll painting. This study, drawing on extant research concerning the yuso made for Joseon period portrait scrolls of kings and meritorious retainers, focuses on the yuso created to hang literati portraits. Concretely, It examines yuso of seven portraits in the collection of the National Museum of Korea in order to characterize their appearance and determine their material composition. The study found that most of the yuso are sixteen-strand strings braided into a rounded cross-section(dongdahoe). The seven yuso, of which six are red and one indigo-blue, reflect the popular style associated with Joseon period literati portraits. The yuso for the portrait of Yun Geup(duksu 3503) is made from gilded paper. Analysis showed Fe particles present in a red pigment underlying the gold layer, suggesting the presence of red ochre(seokganju), an iron oxide mineral. The yuso of the portrait of Shin Im(duksu 4846) is used a paper which contains gold as well as traces of Pb, Hg and Ag. The paper in the yuso for the portrait of Yi Seongwon(bongwan 10122) mainly consisted of Ag, indicating silver paper having been used in its fabrication. The inner paper in the yuso of the portrait of Yi Seogu(sinsu 1065) is a leather combined with Ag, Fe, and Br, according to chemical analysis. The FTIR of the leather sample reveals that the spectrum in the fingerprint region is nearly identical to that of sheepskin, indicating the yuso was made from gold-coated sheepskin.

• Korean Association for Visual Culture
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• v.16
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• pp.131-161
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• 2010

This thesis investigates the cultural meanings of the first optical instrument, Camera obscura, in the pre-modern age, while it explains the development as well as the use of the Camera obscura in Europe and Korea. For this purpose the thesis traces the significant phases of the historical developments of the Camera obscura from L. da Vinci, G. B. della Porta, D. Barbaro, A. Kircher to J. Zahn etc. The Camera obscura was not only the symbolic instrument of the modernism in the sense that human being wanted to observe the outer world by himself and to be freed from the viewpoint of the christianity, but also was the forerunner of the modern visual culture, because it first time reproduced the artificial image of the natural world. Since the second half of the 17th century the box-type reflex Camera obscura had been produced, it began to be used as aid to drawing for painters like J. Vermeer, A. Canaletto and J. Reynolds etc. throughout Europe. It tells the evidence of the close relation between art and technology in the pre-modern age. Around the end of the 18th century the Camera obscura was brought to Korea, the closed country of the Fareast, by the scholars of the so-called 'Realist school' (Silhak-pa) who went to Beijing to acquire knowledges on the Western science from the European priests. In 1780s Yak-yong JUNG, one of the representative scholars of the Realist school, experimented the Camera obscura, and then, it was used for sketches of higher aristocrats' portraits by the supreme portrait painter of that time, Myoung-ki LEE. Those were possible only under the reign of the culturally liberal and reformative King, Jung-jo (ruled 1776-1800), and after his retreatment the inquiry of the Camera obscura had been dimished. It is not a historical coincidence that the Camera obscura could be examined and used in the period of the Enlightment both in Europe and Korea.