• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.963-970
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of underweight female in their 20s~30s by using Clo 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; first, as a result of analyzing torso somatotype, underweight women showed lower average than average values of whole women in their twenties and thirties in the items such as length, width, circumference, thickness except for height. Second, by using 3D virtual garment simulation, new torso pattern considered underweight female was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+3.5, armhole depth B/4+0.5, front waist girth W/4+0.5+0.7, back waist girth W/4+0.5-0.7, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+1-0.5, chest width B/6+3.1, back width B/6+4.5, neck width B/12+0.2 and neck depth B/12+1.7. Third, by reducing hollowed amount of front, back, and side line, and hollowed amount of back center line, the reduced quantity was included to darts amount. Number of dart was adjusted to two pieces so that darts amount was equally distributed to two darts. Forth, according to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern was appropriate for the underweight women. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D virtual garment simulation system with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D pattern production program development.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.87-98
• /
• 2015

As SPA brands are growing in Korean apparel markets, they are extending their well-established brands into new markets (i.e., SPA brand extensions). To investigate psychological mechanism underlying SPA brand extensions, this study conceptually proposed such consumer information processing of SPA brand extensions as (1) perception of similarity between SPA brand extensions and their original brands and (2) evaluations on the SPA brand extensions (i.e., attitude and purchase intent). For hypothetical SPA brand extensions (high, moderate and low similarity conditions), perceived similarity was measured by using a eye-tracker and evaluations were assessed by using a self-reported questionnaire. The results reveal that the amount of external information searching for SPA brand extensions was larger in the following order: moderate, low and high similarity conditions. The depth of SPA brand information processing was also deeper in the same order. Evaluations on SPA brand extensions were higher in high and moderate similarity conditions than in low similarity condition. The findings suggest that the evaluations are affected by perceived similarity and the amount of cognitive efforts in processing SPA brand extensions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.120-129
• /
• 2016

This study aimed to develop an optimal sizing system and a draping pattern for hip protector based on an analysis of anthropometric characteristics of Korean older women. A hip protector is a specialized form of pants or underwear containing pads along the outside of each hip. The 3D body scan data of Korean older women were analyzed to identify their anthropometric characteristics and a four-size system with 93% of population accommodation was developed by clustering analysis based on key dimensions derived from factor analysis. The sizing system consists of small/short, large/short, small/tall, and large/tall. A 3D physical model and hip pads were fabricated; then, a hip protector was draped on the 3D model and hip pads. The sizing system of hip protector was analyzed in terms of size and shape and a draping pattern was compared on back center, back side, front side, front center and pad. Lastly, the pattern deformation and clothing pressure were analyzed using the virtual clothing system CLO. Virtual system have disadvantage of not to suggest the objective value. In the future research the wearing comfort and impact absorption of the hip protector needs to be tested and then a hip protector design will be finalized by considering the hip protector's size, material, comfort testing results, aesthetic appeal, protection effectiveness, and practical utility of everyday use.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.410-421
• /
• 2018

The study is designed to develop a educational basic pants patterns for men, and has been analyzed focusing on the university textbooks published since 2000. We also used CAD programs and virtual fitting programs to analyze the fitness of pants. To do this purpose, after choosing 7 Men's Wear textbooks, selected patterns were drawn and measured using PAD system and were compared and analyzed. Also, the appearance evaluation was examined through virtual fitting and then evaluated 21 male and female university students in their 20s. After supplementing the problems of the patterns in the existing textbooks, a pattern was developed and verified the fitness of the developed pattern. The results of comparing the proposed measurement items of each textbook for the pants pattern indicated a significant differences in terms of hip circumference of each pattern, which were between 96~105cm. A comparison of the drafting methods of each pattern showed the drafting methods for the crotch length, the front crotch extension, the back crotch extension were the difference. The results of appearance evaluation were pattern E presented the slimmest fit and pattern D presented the loosest fit. As a result of analysis of pants pattern, a waist circumference 82cm, a hip circumference 98cm, a crotch length 24cm, a pants length 104cm and a ham line width 46cm were most suitable. The development pattern was evaluated as superior to the existing pattern through the appearance evaluation of the virtual fitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.36 no.9
• /
• pp.940-951
• /
• 2012

This study evaluates the fit preference of the tailored jacket according to body types for 20's adult women through a comparison of real and virtual fit. A five point fit evaluation scale utilizing a wearer acceptability scale by Shen and Huck was used to evaluate the degree of the preference of real and virtual fit. This scale contained 23 items in three categories: front fit, back fit, and side fit. For each item, 5 responses from 'too tight' fit (1 point) to 'too loose' fit (5 point) were possible. The middle position for each fit criterion indicated a 'good' fit (3 point). The data were analyzed with a t-test using statistical program SPSS 17.0. According to the results, there were no significant differences ($p{\leq}.05$) between the real and virtual fit preference in total measurement items such as front collar, lapel and roll line, front shoulder slope, front armhole, front waist, abdomen, sideseam, hemline, front silhouette, side shoulder, side armhole, side sleeve width, side hip, side silhouette, back collar stand, upper back, back armhole, back waist, back hip, back silhouette except front bust, side waist, and back center back. The factor that caused a difference in the fit preference between the real and virtual fit evaluation was a specific body type such as Body Type A that indicated a small bust circumference and a big hip circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.99-109
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to survey sizing system and preferable ease and to decide the body measuring items for pattern making in a men's dress shirt for mass customization industry that is rising to the surface as a new production system. For this, it had a survey subjects were 254 males between 25 to 44 years old who wear dress shirt frequently and the relevant on line companies, and analyzed the garment sizing system and preferable ease. Collected data were analysed by frequency analysis, t-test, $X^2-test$, and ANOVA using SPSS 12.0 for window. Garment pattern making should reflect the sizes of the body parts well, and simplification of the ordering process would work as an important variable. In relation to the preferable ease, older people preferred more ease while younger people preferred fit ease. In relation to the sizes, people wearing the size of '110' preferred more ease than the size of '90'. And people weighing over 90kg preferred sufficient ease than less weighing. People height over 170cm people preferred sufficient ease for the length between shoulders than height under 170cm. In case of the companies had no consistent sizing system. Significant difference was found in the sizes, except for the size of '100', among those companies, there was significant difference in the length between shoulders and the length of the shirt among those companies and those sizes. Significant body parts for a garment pattern making was height, the circumference of the neck, the chest circumference, the length between biacromion, the arms length, and the waist circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.9
• /
• pp.1112-1124
• /
• 2011

The development of computer graphics and Internet technology has created a 3D Web-based virtual world that has transformed the global fashion industry environment. In this study, the application cases of 3D virtual fashion education were analyzed to discuss the necessity and application of a 3D apparel CAD curriculum as part of a special education for global fashion talent at Korean fashion-related colleges. Prior studies, literature, photo data and Internet data (in and out of Korea) were used for this study. The demonstration case studies were conducted for the virtual fashion education 'SLCC 2007' of Buffalo State College (U.S.), 'Ratava's Line (2004)' of SFU/FIT Collaborative Design Project (Canada and U.S.) and '2011 Graduation Fashion Show' of Ueda Fashion College (Japan). The results of the study show that the 3D apparel CAD system (as a core technology of the IT fashion industry) would allow the current mass production concept to change to a new paradigm of 'mass customization' along with new fashion business types that include global fashion companies and Web-based Internet, mobile and virtual-world shopping malls. In addition, it appears that the system should be included in the curriculum of fashion-related colleges and institutes to educate technical designers for the global fashion industry and global fashion talent with comprehensive system operation and management ability, and to promote single proprietor companies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.86-93
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study was to develop torso pattern of Middle-aged obese women by using the virtual twin and 3D virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows; 1. By using 3D Virtual Garment Simulation, new torso pattern considered obese women was development. The basic numerical formula were as follows ; bust girth B/2+5, armhole depth B/6+5, front waist girth W/4+2+0.5, back waist girth W/4+1-0.5, front hip girth H/4+1+0.5, back hip girth H/4+2-0.5, chest width B/6+2.5, back width B/6+2.5 and back neck width B/20+2.5. 2. According to the results of the new torso pattern's appearance evaluation, it estimated more highly than existing pattern in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that new torso pattern is appropriate for the obese women. Also, new torso pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length of bust, waist, abdomen and hip. Virtual models production through 3D body scan data, pattern draft and virtual garment digital program were applied to prototypic design method so as to enhance the fitness of ready-made garments. This study is expected to serve as one of important basic data for ensuing studies that may utilize 3D Virtual Garment Simulation System with 2D patterns, and also for future 3D Pattern Production Program development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.412-419
• /
• 2019

This study is to help maintain the identity of traditional Korean culture and develop fashion culture products by applying images and composition forms of traditional lattice patterns for vest designs. Lattice can be distinguished as a shape created through intersecting vertical and horizontal lines, in the form of oblique lines in vertical and horizontal structures, and in the form of an oblique line. Lattice patterns represent the overall unity and order as well as the beauty of small spaces created by simple lines. Traditional lattice patterns of the Joseon Dynasty were examined theoretically through the literature. Based on theoretical grounds, there is study illustrates vest designs using Adobe Illustrator CS6 as well as works on a 3D virtual costume using CLO Trial 4.2, a 3D virtual dressing system of CLO Virtual Fashion. This study developed an easy to wear vest design categorized as clothes for both men and women. The geometric formality of the lattice pattern has been applied to fashion culture products. In this study, the design was developed focusing on lattice, kotsal (flower pattern), sosulbitsal (diagonal), sotdaesal, tisal (horizontal & vertical). This study can be used as basic data in the domestic fashion cultural product market that can help maintain the originality of Korean culture in the global era that also assists in the successful promotion of Korean culture and traditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.43 no.3
• /
• pp.440-458
• /
• 2019

Based on a 3D body data and pattern comparison analysis, this study developed a formal jacket pattern for men in their late 30s. In order to select the representative type of men in their late 30s, factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted on data form 319 men, 35 to 39 years old using the anthropometric data from The 7th Size Korea (2015) as the representative body type. The surface of the body surface was developed using a 3D human shape of a male in his 30s in The 6th Size Korea (2010). Then the shape was changed to a flat pattern that confirmed the necessary elements for setting the shape and dimension. Cluster analysis revealed type B as the representative type because it showed the best shape characteristics for men in the late 30s. The drafting method of the final research pattern is as follows. Jacket length: stature/2.5cm, back length: stature/5+8.5cm (constant)], armhole depth: [stature/ 7-1.5cm (constant)], back width: [C/9+9.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), front width: [C/9+8.5cm (constant)]+1cm (ease), armscye depth: C/8, front waist darts: 1cm, front closure amount: 2cm.