패션비즈니스 (Journal of Fashion Business)

  • 제28권3호
  • /
  • Pages.69-89
  • /
  • 2024
  • /
  • 1229-3350(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2288-1867(eISSN)
한국패션비즈니스학회 (The Korean Society of Fashion Business)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

세계화 시대의 패션디자인 문화적 전유에 관한 연구 - 전통문화를 중심으로 -

A Study on Cultural Appropriation of Fashion Design in the Era of Globalization - Focusing on Traditional Culture -

  • 진우하 (경희대학교 일반대학원, 텍스타일.패션디자인학과) ;
  • 김차현 (경희대학교 예술디자인대학, 의류디자인학과 )
  • Yu HE Chen (Dept. of Textile & Fashion Design, Graduate School of Kyung Hee University) ;
  • Chahyun Kim (Dept. of Textile & Fashion Design, College of Art & Design, Kyung Hee University)
  • 투고 : 2024.05.20
  • 심사 : 2024.07.23
  • 발행 : 2024.07.30
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

In the era of globalization, cultural appropriation, stemming from the interaction and clash of diverse cultures, remains inadequately defined, leading to controversy in many designs. This study aims to provide a theoretical basis for understanding cultural appropriation by comparing similar concepts and examining specific cases. It proposes methods for the rational use of traditional cultures in apparel to minimize controversy. Firstly, the study investigates the concept of cultural appropriation by exploring differences among related terms. Secondly, it examines instances of cultural appropriation in fashion through form, color, pattern, and material, drawing from papers and Google searches over the past decade. Thirdly, it categorizes representative cases by domestic and foreign fashion brands, analyzing the underlying reasons. The goal is to establish a theoretical foundation for developing culturally sensitive clothing products. Based on the findings, several measures are proposed: understanding and respecting cultural backgrounds through in-depth research on the history and significance of elements; collaborating with cultural groups and consulting experts for feedback; explaining the source of design inspiration to help consumers understand the cultural elements' meanings; avoiding the reinforcement of stereotypes and respecting cultural diversity and complexity; respecting intellectual property and ensuring moral and legal appropriateness; and learning from case studies of other designers' and brands' successes and failures.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Adongo, F. (2021). The use of mediation to resolve conflicts arising from cultural appropriation by western fashion brands. Cardozo Journal of Conflict Resolution, 22(2), 367.
  2. African Batik. (2023). [Photograph]. Sohu. Retrieved from https://www.sohu.com/a/654198975_121124645
  3. Alexa Chung. (2015). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.voguehk.com/zh/article/fashion/best-florals-met-gala-red-carpet/
  4. Alexander McQueen 'Chinese Garden'. (2005). [Photograph]. The Met. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/128828
  5. Andy Warhol Campbell's Soup Cans. (1962). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Campbell%27s_Soup_Cans
  6. A Section of the Parthenon Marbles on Display at the British Museum in London. (2014). [Photograph]. The British Museum. Retrieved from https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/G_1816-0610-46-b
  7. Bihor Traditional Clothes. (2018). [Photograph]. Adaymag. Retrieved from https://www.adaymag.com/2018/07/05/bihor-traditional-clothing.html
  8. Carolina Herrera, 2020 Resort. (2020). [Photograph]. Carolina Herrera. Retrieved from https://lookbook.carolinaherrera.com/collection/resort-2020/
  9. Cho, I, S. (2014). Originality in art history: Creativity, mimesis and strangeness. Art History, 28, 255-280.
  10. Chinese International Students Protest. (2022). [Photograph]. Yazhouribao. Retrieved from https://www.yazhouribao.com/view/20220726101142409
  11. Chinese Traditional Skirt. (2022). [Photograph]. XHBY. Retrieved from https://jres2023.xhby.net/index/202207/t20220730_7637999.shtml
  12. Christian Dior, 2023 RTW. (2023). [Photograph]. Sohu. Retrieved from https://www.sohu.com/a/594585030_121119293
  13. Christian Dior, 2023 Resort. (2023). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2023/christian-dior/slideshow/collection#26
  14. Christian Dior, 1997 F/W. (1997). [Photograph]. Pinterest. Retrieved from https://kr.pinterest.com/pin/850265604628712468/
  15. Christian Dior, 2017 Pre-Fall. (2017). [Photograph]. Adaymag. Retrieved from https://www.adaymag.com/2018/07/05/bihor-traditional-clothing.html
  16. Christian Dior, 2020 Resort. (2020). [Photograph]. Wazaiii. Retrieved from https://www.wazaiii.com/articles?id=1644
  17. Christian Dior, 2022 Pre-Fall. (2022). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://jres2023.xhby.net/index/202207/t20220730_7637999.shtml
  18. Christian Dior, 2022 RTW. (2022). [Photograph]. Pinterest. Retrieved from https://kr.pinterest.com/pin/294422894410295278/
  19. Christian Dior Quiproquo. (1951). [Photograph]. The Met. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83264
  20. Christy, A. E. (1945). The Asian legacy and American life. New York: John Day.
  21. Company a Signature Jacket. (2020). [Photograph]. Naver. Retrieved from https://blog.naver.com/gjtnwns/221676467644
  22. Costumes from Frozen. (2019). [Photograph]. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/ItaSeeTheWorld/posts/1429416710560966/
  23. Etoile Isabel Marant, 2020 Fall RTW. (2020). [Photograph]. WWD. Retrieved from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/mexico-culture-minister-frausto-isabel-marant-cultural-appropriation-1234657325/
  24. Georgia May Jagger. (2015). [Photograph]. Elle. Retrieved from https://elle.metropolitan.si/moda/novice3/modna-ekstravaganca-z-newyorske-met-gale/
  25. Gucci, 2018 Turban. (2019). [Photograph]. Dagospia. Retrieved from https://www.dagospia.com/rubrica-29/cronache/sikh-et-simpliciter-ndash-turbante-790-dollari-gucci-fa-203862.htm
  26. Holland Stree Lounge Wear. (2018). [Photograph]. BBC. Retrieved from https://www.bbc.com/ukchina/trad/vert-cul-42568057
  27. In This African Village, The Walls of the Chief's Compound are Painted with Beautiful Traditional Designs. (2017). [Photograph]. MessyNessy. Retrieved from https://www.messynessychic.com/2013/01/10/the-african-village-where-every-house-is-a-work-of-art/
  28. Inuit Shaman KTZ, 2015 F/W. (2015). [Photograph]. CBC. Retrieved from https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/ktz-fashion-inuit-design-1.3337047
  29. Jeanne Paquin Evening Coat. (1912). [Photograph]. Pinterest. Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.co.kr/pin/545709679840457095/
  30. Kim, G. H. (2021). 인도 '요가'(Yoga)의 정치화와 국가 정체성 [Politicization of 'Yoga' and national identity in India]. South Asian Studies, 27(2), 1-31.
  31. Kim, J. E. (2021). Cultural appropriation and pursuit of the value of cultural diversity in contemporary fashion (Unpublished master's thesis). Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.
  32. Kim, J. H. (2020). Plagiarism dispute cases of fashion design and undergraduate students' perceptions regarding plagiarism of fashion design. Journal of Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society, 21(10), 480-489.
  33. Kim, J. I. (2018). A proposal of learning ethics education in the multi-disciplinary design field for the prevention of plagiarism. The Korean Society of Science & Art, 36, 37-52.
  34. Kimono. (2006). [Photograph]. Pinterest. Retrieved from https://www.pinterest.co.kr/pin/352266002077798487/
  35. Lee, S. L. (2019). Cultural appropriation in contemporary fashion. Archives of Design Research. 32(2), 137-150.
  36. Lyou, B. W. (2019). International disputes on cultural properties trafficked: Focusing on the return of korean cultural properties. Journal of hongik law review, 20(1), 147-166.
  37. Marcel Duchamp Fountain. (1917). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fountain_(Duchamp)
  38. Michelangelo David. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_(Michelangelo)
  39. Mirrlees, T. (2013). Global entertainment media: Between cultural imperialism and cultural globalization (1st ed.). New York: Routledge.
  40. Moschino, 2014 F/W. (2014). [Photograph]. Sina. Retrieved from https://interface.sina.cn/pc_to_wap.d.html?ref=https%3A%2F%2Ffinance.sina.com.cn%2Fjjxw%2F2023-03-21%2Fdoc-imymrnuv9924084.shtml
  41. Murals in Tenango de Doria, Hidalgo, Mexico Murals. (2021). [Photograph]. Peapix. Retrieved from https://peapix.com/bing/7398
  42. Native American War Bonnet. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_bonnet
  43. Ni, H. T. (2020). Research on the phenomenon of 'appropriation' of fashion design. Beijing, China: Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology.
  44. Oh, H. N. (2015). 특집 : 그을린 민족문화 : 전유, 내면화 그리고 근대주의. [Special feature: scorched national culture: appropriation, internalization, and modernism]. YOKSA WA HYONSIL, 96, 109-139.
  45. Paul Poiret Hobble Skirt. (1991). [Photograph]. Thefreedictionary. Retrieved from https://forum.thefreedictionary.com/postst192331_Hobble-Skirts.aspx
  46. Pe'a. (n.d.). [Photograph]. Wikipedia. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pe%CA%BBa
  47. Pozzo, B. (2020). Fashion between inspiration and appropriation. Laws, 9(1), 5.
  48. Pro Tattoo Tech. (2013). [Photograph]. Nzherald. Retrieved from https://www.nzherald.co.nz/lifestyle/nike-pulls-pacific-style-tattoo-gear/3SES7JGD2QGWCVPF7K7LQMESK4/
  49. Romanian Traditional Cothing Early 20th Century. (2017). [Photograph]. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/LaBlouseRoumaine10/photos/a.286820234769651/1299025700215761/?type=3
  50. Saltillo City, Mexico Slape Skirt. (2018). [Photograph]. Alamy. Retrieved from https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-portrait-of-a-young-girl-wearing-a-traditional-poncho-and-skirt-standing-132852920.html
  51. Shand, P. J. (2002). Scenes from the colonial catwalk: Cultural appropriation, intellectual property rights, and fashion. Cultural Analysis, 3, 47.
  52. SuZhou Garden. (2024). [Photograph]. Httpcn. Retrieved from https://ms.httpcn.com/info/html/201749/PWCQTBKOTBAZ.shtml
  53. Sikh Turban. (2019). [Photograph]. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/sikhturbantag
  54. Spanish Traditional Buckle. (2022). [Photograph]. Sohu. Retrieved from https://www.sohu.com/a/594585030_121119293
  55. The North Face Nipsey Jacket. (2020). [Photograph]. Solesense. Retrieved from https://www.solesense.com/zh-hans-cn/the-north-face-1996-retro-nuptse-down-jacket-nj1dk50d
  56. The Mexican Sarapes and Jorongos. (2020). [Photograph]. Sina. Retrieved from https://fashion.sina.com.cn/s/fo/2020-11-18/1036/doc-iiznctke2017934.shtml
  57. Traditional Sami Dress. (2019). [Photograph]. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/ItaSeeTheWorld/posts/1429416710560966/
  58. Tory Burch, 2018 Resort. (2018). [Photograph]. Facebook. Retrieved from https://www.facebook.com/LaBlouseRoumaine10/photos/a.286820234769651/1299025700215761/?type=3
  59. Valentino, 2016 Spring RTW. (2016). [Photograph]. Bagaddictsanonymous. Retrieved from https://www.bagaddictsanonymous.com/bags/pfw-valentino-ss16-runway-and-bags/
  60. Vantage Kimono. (1910). [Photograph]. Pinterest. Retrieved from https://kr.pinterest.com/pin/329677635199721318/
  61. Victoria's Secret, 2012 Fashion Show. (2012). [Photograph]. Vogue. Retrieved from https://www.teenvogue.com/gallery/victorias-secret-fashion-show-cultural-appropriation
  62. Wang, Y., & Yang, J. B. (2021). A study on the parody property of pop art appeared in advertisement. Design Research, 6(4), 105-117.
  63. Westerners in Traditional Indian Hats. (2024). [Photograph]. Crossing. Retrieved from https://crossing.cw.com.tw/article/17741
  64. Wu, Z, H. (2019). The Chinese value of "cultural appropriation" theory from design perspective. Art Observation(8), 2.
  65. Yi, M. S., & Yim, E. H. (2020). Cultural appropriation and representation in the contemporary fashion industry. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 70(4), 54-64.
  66. Yin, F. F. (2020). Research on cultural appropriation in contemporary fashion design (Unpublished master's thesis). China Academy of Art University, Hangzhou, China.
  67. Yves Saint Laurent. (2018). [Photograph]. EFHA. Retrieved from https://fashionheritage.eu/yves-saint-laurent-retrospective-show-january-2002
  68. Zhang Chengye 10-Panel Folding Screen Depicting Flower and Animal Scenes. (2019). [Photograph]. Allhistory. Retrieved from https://m2.allhistory.com/ah/article/5f61ef11550c6f000158141a
  69. Zhang Xu Du Tong Tie. (1977). [Photograph]. The Met. Retrieved from https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/64046
  70. Zhuang, K. R. (2012). Graphic journalism. Taiwan Chinese: Wu-Nan Book Inc.