DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Romanticism Characteristics of the Incroyables Fashion during the Directoire

총재정부 시기 앵크루아야블(Incroyables) 복식의 낭만주의 특성

  • Shin, Param (Dept. of Human Ecology, Jeonbuk National University) ;
  • Lee, Hyojin (Dept. of Fashion Design, Jeonbuk National University)
  • 신파람 (전북대학교 생활과학과 의류학전공) ;
  • 이효진 (전북대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2019.09.30
  • Accepted : 2019.11.15
  • Published : 2020.02.28

Abstract

Romanticists realized the ideals of a more fantastic and better society for the present day in which they lived; in addition, dress was an important medium of expression of this period. The Incroyables were a group that expressed eccentric forms and abuses of luxury through their clothing, centering around the second generation of financial elite groups during the French Directoire. Incroyables created their own fashion that expresses their new image in dress, expressing the intense personal innerity of life, which was influenced by the romanticism of pursuing an internal expression of the subjective and emotional individual. This study used a literature review to analyze the characteristics of the Romanticism expressed in the Incroyables fashion. The research results were as follows. First, it was an expression of an emotional desire for and ancient regime. Incroyables fashion were based on bourgeois nostalgia for the days of the ancient regime that resulted in an emphasis on individual and original human views. Second, it was also a hybrid of Romantic classicism. It was a form emphasizing body form where body beauty expressed a classical form through a dress under the influence of neo-classicalism that desires to return to nature.

Keywords

References

  1. Academie francaise. (1932). Dictionnaire de l'Academie francaise. (8 ed.). Paris: Librairie Hachette.
  2. 'A revolutionary Tyranny crushed by the friends of the constitution of year III'. (1795-6). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019, https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8412643s/f1.item.r=estampe%20d'A
  3. Amann, E. (2015). Dandyism in the age of revolution: The art of the cut. US : University of Chicago Press.
  4. Ashelford, J. (2009). The art of dress: Clothes and society 1500-1914. UK: Nationaltrust.
  5. Becker, K. (2010). Le dandysme litteraire en France au xixe siecle [The literary dandysme in 19th century France]. Orleans: Paradigme.
  6. Blancpain, M., & Couchoud, J. P. (2010). La civilization francaise [French civilization] (J. Y. Song, Trans.). Seoul: Joongwon Munhwa. (Original work published 1920)
  7. Boehn, M., & Loschek, I. (2000). Die mode [a trendsetter] (M. S. Cheon, Trans.). Seoul: Hangilart. (Original work published 1996)
  8. Cho, E. R. (2015). Approche philosophique du dandysme : Metaphysique de l'apparence [Philosophical approach to dandysm : Appearance metaphysics]. Revue d'etudes Francaises, 90, 321- 341.
  9. Cho, K. S. (2016). What makes France a fashion power: A socio- historical approach. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 66(2), 32-44. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.2.032
  10. Contini, M. (1965). Fashion, from ancient egypt to the present day. New York: The Odyssey Press.
  11. Craik, J. (1993). The face of fashion-cultural studies in fashion. London: Routledge.
  12. Dawson, C. (2015). The gods of revolution. Washington: The Catholic University of America Press.
  13. Fuchs, E. (1997). Illustrierte Sittengeschichte vom Mittelalter bis zur Gegenwart: das bürgerliche. zeitalter (G. U. Lee & J. M. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Kachi. (Original work published 1912)
  14. Hauser, A. (2016). Sozialgeschichte der kunst und literature [Social history of art and literature] (N. C. Baek & M. U. Yum, Trans.). Seoul: Changbi. (Original work published 1983).
  15. Heath, D., & Boreham, J. (2002). Romanticism(S. M. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Kimyoungsa. (Original work published 1996)
  16. Hinton, H. L. (1867). Select historical costumes: Compiled from the most reliable sources. New York : Wynkoop & Sherwood.
  17. 'Incroyables'. (1796). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019, from. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8412776h/f1.item
  18. 'Incroyables and counterpart Merveilleuse'. (1801). Wikimedia Commons. Retrieved January 27, 2020. from https://commons. wikimedia.org/ wiki/File:La_Walse.jpg
  19. 'Incroyables and Merveilleuses'. (1797). Gallica. Retrieved March 3, 2019. from. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8412783n/f1.item.r= incroyable
  20. 'Incroyables's culottes and stocking'. (1797). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019. form https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8412724s/f1.item.r =jeunesse%20dor%C3%A9e
  21. 'Incroyables in the cafe'. (1797). Musee du Louvre, Departement des Arts graphiques. Retrieved January 27, 2020. from http://arts-graphiques.louvre.fr/detail/oeuvres/0/520922-Cafe-des-incroyables
  22. Jeong, H. S., & Jang, Y. Y. (2019). Educational reality and emotional education of the 1780s in the Tableau de Paris. Cross-Cultural Studies, 54, 57-87.
  23. Jeong, H. S., & Jang, Y. Y. (2011). Femmes et Revolution dans le Tableau de Paris et l'an deux mille quatre cent quarante de louis Sebastien Mercier [Women and the revolution in the Tableau of Paris and the year two thousand four hundred and forty Sebastian Mercier praise]. Revue des Etudes Francaises, 58, 373-396.
  24. 'Jeunesse doree'. (1797-1815). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019, form https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84127041/f1.item.r= jeunesse%20dor%C3%A9e
  25. 'Jeuness doree in tripot' (1797). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019. From. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b8412777x/f1.item.r= jeunesse%20dor%C3%A9e
  26. Kim, M. C. (2015). Featured articles: French revolution and politics: Antonelle et sa theorie de la sous le Directoire [Featured articles: French revolution and politics: Antonelle and his theory of representative democracy under Directoire]. The Journal of Western History, 53, 53-103.
  27. Koda, H. (2004). Extreme beauty: The body transformed. New York: Metropolitan museum of art.
  28. Korean Dictionary Research Editor. (1998). Art unabridged dictionary. Seoul: Author.
  29. Laver, J., De La Haye, A., & Tucker, A. (2002). Costume & fashion a concise history (I. H. Jeong, Trans.). Seoul: Sigongart. (Original work published 1969)
  30. Lehmann, U. (2002). Tigersprung: fashion in modernity. Cambridge, Mass: MIT Press.
  31. Lee, G. A., & Jeon, H. J. (2004). The style of romanticism on fashion (I). Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 54(1), 141-157.
  32. Lee, J. K. (2011). La formation des forces politiques et l'evolution du systeme politique en France [The formation of political forces and the evolution of the political system in France]. Revue d'etudes Francaises, 74, 323-344.
  33. Lim, S. J., Yeo, H. G., Han, D. S., Kang, D. S., Kang, Y. G., Kim, Y. T., & Kim, Y. J. (2012). Dictionary of philosophy. Seoul: Joongwon Munhwa.
  34. Lodge, R. A. (2004). A sociolinguistic history of parisian French. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
  35. 'Luxurious people of different ages are surprised to see each other'. (1797). Gallica. Retrieved March 3, 2019, from. https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84127842/f1.item
  36. Mackrell, A. (2005). Art and fashion: the impact of art on fashion and fashion on art. London: Barsford.
  37. 'Merveilleuse and Incroyables'. (1797). Gallica. Retrieved August 13, 2019, from https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b52502466q/f1.item
  38. Payne, B. (1988). History of costume: From the ancient egyptians to the twentieth century (J. N. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Kkachi. (Original work published 1965)
  39. Perrot, P. (2007). (Les) Dessus et les dessous de la bourgeoisie (J. H. Lee, Trans.). Seoul: Hyunsilbook. (Original work published 1981)
  40. Roh, Y. D. (2010). The study on the aesthetic of romanticism: Concerning the background of its thought and the aesthetic property. Bulletin of Korean Society of Basic Design & Art, 11(6), 195-206.
  41. Soboul. (2018). La revolution francaise (K. S. Choi, Trans.). Seoul: gyoyangin. (Original work published 1962)
  42. Song, K. H. (2012). Une etude sur la relation entre l'evolution de la societe de la bourgeoisie et le changement de mouvement litteraire dans la France du 19e siecle (I) [A study of the relationship between the evolution of the bourgeoisie society and the change of literary movement in 19th-century France]. Revue d'etudes Francaises, 77, 209-239.
  43. 'The public promenade'. (1792). Google art & culture. Retrieved August 13, 2019. from. https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/ public-promenade-la-promenade-publique-philibert-louis-debucourt/jwF3blcz5TJ3JQ
  44. Time life books. (2005). What life was like in europe's romantic era: Europe, 1789-1848 (H. S. Shin, Trans.). Seoul: Galamgihoeg. (Original work published 2000)
  45. Van Hende, E. (1874). Histoire de Lille de 620 a 1804. Lille: L. Danel.
  46. Wallace, C. (1986). Dance: A very social history. New York: Metropolitan museum of art.
  47. Waugh, N. (1964). The cut of mens clothes 1600-1900. New York : Routledge.
  48. Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams : fashion and modernity. London: Rutgers university press.
  49. Yang, Y. S. (2015). Featured articles: French revolution and politics : antislavery discourse under the directory, 1795-1799: A study on "la societe des amis des noirs et des colonies". The Journal of Western History, 53, 139-167.
  50. Zieseniss, C. O., & Le Bourhis, K. (1989). The age of napoleon: Costume from revolution to empire, 1789-1815. New York: Metro-politan museum of art.