Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society (한국산학기술학회논문지)

The Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society (한국산학기술학회)
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Assessment of the possibility as Cosmetics Materials by Brown algae from Jeju Island Using Supercritical Fluid System

초임계 유체 기술을 이용한 제주산 갈조류의 화장품 소재로서의 가능성 평가

  • 최하영 ((주)웰니스라이프연구소) ;
  • 최나영 ((주)웰니스라이프연구소) ;
  • 손명수 ((주)웰니스라이프연구소) ;
  • 김덕수 (제주대학교 화학코스메틱스학과) ;
  • 이현주 ((주)웰니스라이프연구소)
  • Received : 2019.07.25
  • Accepted : 2020.01.03
  • Published : 2020.01.31
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Abstract

Although various biological extracts derived from the resources from Jeju are currently being developed for cosmetic materials, few studies using Brown algae from Jeju have been conducted. This study identified materials with high antioxidant levels and examined their whitening effects to assess their feasibility as potential cosmetic resources. Brown algae from Jeju (Undaria pinnatifida (Harvey) Suringar, Laminaria japonica, Ecklonia cava, Hizikia fusiforme (Harvey) Okamura (HF), and Sargassum fulvellum (Turner) C. Agardh (SF) were processed using a supercritical fluid system at 50℃ and 400 bar, and their total phenol content, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and primary skin irritation were measured. Of all the samples, only SF using the supercritical fluid system (SFS) displayed concentration-dependent behavior for the total phenol content (p<0.05). Among the samples, the antioxidant activity of SFS was significantly higher (p<0.05) and the one increased at higher concentrations (p<0.05). On the other hand, tyrosinase was inhibited to a greater extent with HF than the others. The primary skin irritation tests showed that none of the samples were skin irritants. This study confirmed the feasibility of using Phaeophyceae from Jeju as potential cosmetic materials, where the samples can be selected and utilized based on the required physicochemical properties.

제주산 생물자원을 이용하여 화장품 소재 추출물들이 개발되고 있으나, 제주산 갈조류를 활용하여 연구된 경우는 드물다. 본 연구를 통해 제주산 갈조류에서 항산화 성분이 높은 소재를 찾아 미백 효과를 살펴보고 이를 바탕으로 화장품 소재로서의 활용될 가능성을 평가했다. 제주산 갈조류(미역, 다시마, 감태, 톳, 모자반)을 초임계 이산화탄소 추출장비로 처리하여 이화학적 특성 측정과 피부 일차 자극 실험을 위한 시료로 사용했다. 각 시료들은 초임계 이산화탄소 추출장비로 온도 50℃, 압력 400bar에서 처리한 후, 총 페놀 함량, 항산화능, Tyrosinase 활성, 그리고 피부 일차 자극을 측정했다. 각 시료의 총 페놀 함량은 처리된 모자반에서만 농도 의존적으로 검출되었다(p<0.05). 처리된 시료 중 모자반의 항산화능이 유의적으로 높았으며(p<0.05), 농도에 따라 항산화 활성이 높은 것으로 확인되었다(p<0.05). 그러나 Tyrosinase 활성 억제는 처리된 톳에서 가장 높게 나타났다(p<0.05). 처리된 모든 시료의 피부 일차 자극 실험에서는 소재의 종류에 관계없이 피부에 자극이 없는 것으로 측정되었다. 본 연구를 통해 제주산 갈조류가 화장품 소재로서 가능성이 있다는 것을 확인했으며, 각 갈조류가 가진 이화학적 특성에 따라 소재를 선택적으로 사용할 필요가 있다고 판단했다.

Keywords

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