Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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A Study of Improvement of Skin Condition and Sensory Efficacy by Periodic Application of L-α-Amino Acid

L-α-아미노산의 주기적 도포에 의한 피부개선 효능과 소비자 체감 효능 연구

  • 권구철 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 이성우 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 안병준 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 강내규 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 박선규 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원) ;
  • 박상욱 ((주)LG생활건강 기술연구원)
  • Received : 2018.11.05
  • Accepted : 2019.01.17
  • Published : 2019.03.30
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Abstract

In this study, $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, which is a constituent of natural moisturizing factor, was applied to skin in periodic cycle to improve skin tone and texture roughness. Based on the polarity of the alkyl group (R) of the $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid, the acid was categorized into two groups and their efficacy was studied. As a result, it was found that the improvement rate of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) is 21% higher than that of $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex with non-polar alkyl group ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-2$). For clinical trials, emulsions containing $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex ($L-{\alpha}-AAC-1$) were applied to the randomly selected 20 to 40 year old female participants, as an experimental group, on the right facial cheek once per day for 8 weeks, and emulsions without $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid complex, as a control group, were applied to the left facial cheek in the same way. Improvements in skin tone were measured using $JANUS^{(R)}$ equipment and analyzed using image analysis software. Skin texture improvement was measured and analyzed mechanically using the phaseshift rapid in-vivo measurement of the skin (PRIMOS) equipment. As a result, improvements of skin tone and skin texture were 11.7% and 6.7%, respectively. In addition, a questionnaire survey was conducted to the participants on the aesthetic improvement and the degree of the feeling of skin improvement. The results suggest that $L-{\alpha}-amino$ acid can be used as a cosmetic substance that can provide aesthetic satisfaction through physiological skin tone and texture roughness.

본 연구에서는 천연 보습인자의 구성 성분인 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산을 피부에 주기적으로 반복 도포하여 일반적으로 알려진 보습뿐 만 아니라 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산을 피부 톤과 결의 개선제로 활용하였다. L-${\alpha}$-아미노산의 알킬기(R)의 극성과 비극성에 따라 두 그룹으로 나누어 각질케어 효능을 확인하였다. 그 결과, 극성 알킬기를 갖는 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산 콤플렉스(L-${\alpha}$-아미노산-콤플렉스-1)가 비극성 알킬기를 갖는 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산 콤플렉스(L-${\alpha}$-아미노산-콤플렉스-2)에 비해 21% 향상된 효능을 나타내었다. 임상 실험을 위해 20 - 40대 11인의 여성에게 실험군으로서 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산 콤플렉스-1을 포함한 에멀전을 오른쪽 뺨에 8주간 매일 도포하고 대조군으로서 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산 콤플렉스-1를 포함하지 않은 에멀전을 왼쪽 뺨에 같은 방법으로 도포하였다. 피부 톤의 개선은 $JANUS^{(R)}$ 장비를 통해 측정하고 이미지분석 소프트웨어를 이용하여 분석하였으며, 피부 결의 개선은 phaseshift rapid in-vivo measurement of the skin (PRIMOS)장비를 이용하여 기기적으로 측정하고 분석하였다. 그 결과, 피부 톤 11.7%, 피부 결 6.7%의 개선을 확인하였다. 또한 피험자에게 심미적으로 느껴지는 개선에 대해 설문조사를 실시하여 피부개선의 체감도를 바탕으로 기기측정 결과를 통해 나타난 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산 도포의 효능을 평가하였다. 본 연구 결과를 통해, 약산성(pH 6.5)조건에서 피부 자극을 유발하지 않음과 동시에 생리학적인 개선을 통한 피부 톤과 결의 개선을 기대할 수 있으며, 화장품 소재로서 심미적 만족감을 줄 수 있는 물질로 L-${\alpha}$-아미노산이 활용될 수 있을 것이라 생각된다.

Keywords

References

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