복식문화연구 (The Research Journal of the Costume Culture)

  • 제25권5호
  • /
  • Pages.629-647
  • /
  • 2017
  • /
  • 1226-0401(pISSN)
  • /
  • 2383-6334(eISSN)
복식문화학회 (The Costume Culture Association)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Kinfolk 매거진에 나타난 안티패션(anti-fashion) 경향

Tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine

  • Lim, Ahreum (Dept. of Fashion Design, School of Art, Sungkyunkwan University) ;
  • Yim, Eunhyuk (Dept. of Fashion Design, School of Art, Sungkyunkwan University)
  • 투고 : 2017.03.09
  • 심사 : 2017.10.24
  • 발행 : 2017.10.31
PDF 다운로드
⟨ 이전 논문 다음 논문 ⟩

초록

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

키워드

참고문헌

  1. Buxbaum, G. (2011). Icon of fashion: 20th century (K. S. Keum, H. N. Nam, H. S. Park, & J. S. Heo, Trans.). Seoul: Misulmunhwa. (Original work published 2005)
  2. Davis, F. (1992). Fashion, culture, and identity. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
  3. English, A. (2014). Hen and eggs, Kinfolk, 3, 56.
  4. Finkelstein, J. (2005). After a fashion (D. W. Kim & Y. K. Kim, Trans.). Paju: Chungnyunsa. (Original work published 1996)
  5. Forneret, A. (2015). The essential endeavors. Kinfolk, 16, 118.
  6. Fullerton, A. (2015). The families we choose. Kinfolk, 17, 22.
  7. Gentl & Hyers. (2014). The apron recipe. Kinfolk, 5, 72.
  8. Grahnat, H. (2014). Coffee break, Fica. Kinfolk, 1, 57.
  9. Han, J. (2015). The essential endeavors. Kinfolk, 16, 110.
  10. Hyun, M.-K. & Jang, A.-R. (2012). Ugly tattoo makeup depicted contemporary fashion. Journal of Korea Design Forum, 36, 105-116.
  11. Kaiser, S. B., & Looysen, R. (2010a). Antifashion. In J. B. Eicher, & M. Maynard (Eds.), Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion Vol. 3: The United States and Canada (pp. 160-170). Oxford: Berg. doi:10.2752/BEWDF/EDch3023
  12. Kaiser, S. B., & Looysen, R. (2010b). Fashion variations. In J. B. Eicher, & M. Maynard (Eds.), Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion Vol. 10: Global Perspectives (pp. 160-170). Oxford: Berg. doi:10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10023
  13. Kinfolk. (2014a). Kinfolk, 2, 92.
  14. Kinfolk. (2014b). Kinfolk, 3, 16.
  15. Kinfolk. (2014c). Kinfolk, 7, 47.
  16. Kinfolk. (2015a). Kinfolk, 13, 32.
  17. Kinfolk. (2015b). Kinfolk, 15, cover page.
  18. Kinfolk. (2015c). Kinfolk, 16, 119.
  19. King, G. F. (2015). An interview with Carl Honore. Kinfolk, 15, 54-55.
  20. La Force, T. (2013, November 17). Hit print. Nymag.com. Retrieved March 16, 2015, from http://nymag.com/shopping/features/indie-magazines-2013-11
  21. Lee, B. W. (1997). 환경경영론 [Environmental management theory]. Seoul: Bibong publishing.
  22. Lockhart, S. (2013, March 6). 30 Indie magazines you need to know. Complex, Retrieved March 16, 2015, from http://www.complex.com/style/2013/03/30-indie-magazines-you-need-to-know/thvm-rag
  23. Losowsky, A. (2011, December 8). 11 amazing magazines you've never heard of. Huffingtonpost, Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.huffingtonpost.com/andrew-losowsky/11-amazing-indiemagazines_b_1127493.html
  24. Menkes, S. (2013, February 10). The circus of fashion. The New York Times, Retrieved October 25, 2015, from http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/10/t-magazine/the-circus-of-fashion.html
  25. Mettler, L. G. (2014, September 26). The great indie magazine explosion: A survey. Vogue. Retrieved March 16, 2015, from http://www.vogue.com/1856125/indie-magazine-independent-bookstore-explosion
  26. Muggleton, D. (2000). Inside subculture: The postmodern meaning of style. Oxford: Berg.
  27. Park, E. K. (2008). Brand marketing strategy reflecting LOHAS trend. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 8(3), 23-39.
  28. Park, K. R., & Lee, Y. H. (2013). Expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism in contemporary women's fashion. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 21(5), 613-628. doi:10.7741/rjcc.2013.21.5.613
  29. Park, S.-J. (2005). A study on make-up tendency of naturalism: Centering around the period since 1990s. Journal of the Korean Society of Beauty and Art, 6(1), 115-132.
  30. Peters, M. N. (2014). Nautical ink. Kinfolk, 12, 82.
  31. Polhemus, T. (2013. April). Style > fashion > style: The first 100,000 years of the decorated ape. Proceedings of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Spring Conference, Seoul, 39-40.
  32. Samsung Design Net. (2014, December 17). Review 2014, preview 2015. Retrieved November 7, 2015, from http://www.samsungdesign.net/Fashion/Report/Content.asp?An=40049
  33. Simmel, G. (1957). Fashion. American Journal of Sociology, 62(6), 541-558. doi:10.1086/222102
  34. Smith, P. (2014, November 8). 15 beautiful and fascinating independent magazines you need to read. Buzzfeed, Retrieved April 11, 2015, from http://www.buzzfeed.com/patricksmith/wonderfulindependent-magazines-you-need-to-read-right-no#.glaLj3LqP
  35. Suh, H. S. (2014). A study of the formative features and aesthetic values of eco fashion design. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 14(1), 69-84.
  36. Svendsen, L. (2013). Fashion: A philosophy (S. Y. Do, Trans.). Seoul: MID.
  37. Textile Exchange. (n.d.) RDS (responsible down standard). Retrieved November 23, 2015, from http://textileexchange.org/tag/rds
  38. Whelan, W. (2015). Making a pointe. Kinfolk, 13, 74.
  39. Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity (Rev. ed.). New Brunswick, N.J.: Rutgers University Press.
  40. Yim, E.-H., & Kim, M.-J. (2003). A study on the subcultural style in the 1990s. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 53(3), 13-30.
  41. Yoo, H. S. (2012). Ethical fashion in the fashion industry: Focusing on the actualization of sustainable fashion. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 12(2), 39-57.

피인용 문헌

  1. A Study on Korean Hipster Culture and the Expressive Characteristics of Korean Hipster Fashion vol.69, pp.8, 2017, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2019.69.8.042