Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회지)

Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea (대한화장품학회)
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Electrospray-assisted Preparation of Polymer Microparticles Containing Water-insoluble Bioactive Compounds

전기방사법을 이용한 유용성 생리활성성분을 포함한 고분자 마이크로입자 제조

  • 황윤균 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 정민국 (한양대학교 화학공학과) ;
  • 조성연 (한양대학교 화학공학과) ;
  • 박성일 ((주)아모레퍼시픽 기술연구원) ;
  • 조은철 (한양대학교 화학공학과)
  • Received : 2016.09.23
  • Accepted : 2017.03.28
  • Published : 2017.03.31
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Abstract

An anti-aging compound ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro-1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate) rapidly crystallizes in emulsion systems, and a flavonoid 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone bearing a whitening function causes coloration of cosmetic compounds when mixed with metal oxides. In this study, an electrospray method was used to encapsulate water-insoluble bioactive compounds in polymeric microparticles. Poly (methyl methacrylate) and polycaprolactone were used to encapsulate ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro-1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate) and 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone, respectively. It was found that polymer concentration, the structure of electrospray nozzle, and compatibility between polymers and bioactive compounds were important factors in the preparation of the particles. Polycaprolactone particles encapsulating 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone was effective in preventing coloration of a cosmetic compound when mixed with metal oxides.

Ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro- 1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate)는 노화방지 효과가 있으나 난용성 및 결정화 특성을 가지고 있어 제형화 및 2차 가공을 통해 입자내 활성성분을 담지시키는데 어려움이 있으며, 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone는 플라보노이드(flavonoid)류의 일종으로 미백기능을 가지고 있으나 복합제형에 사용할 경우 제형의 착색을 일으키는 물질 중 하나이다. 본 연구에서는 전기방사법을 이용하여 유용성/난용성 생리활성성분인 ethyl (4-(2,3-dihydro-1H-indene-5-carboxyamido) benzoate)와 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone 성분을 각각 poly (methyl methacrylate)와 polycaprolactone 고분자 입자 내에 담지 시키고 이를 화장품 제형에 적용했을 때 나타나는 효과에 대해서 기술하였다. 입자내 활성성분을 담지시킨 고분자 입자를 제조하는 과정에는 고분자의 농도, 노즐의 구조, 그리고 고분자와 생리활성 성분의 상용성이 중요한 역할을 하였다. 아울러 3,5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxy-8-prenylflavone가 캡슐화된 polycaprolactone 고분자 입자를 금속산화물이 포함된 화장품 제형과 혼합하였을 경우, 고분자 입자는 캡슐화 되지 않은 flavonoid가 제형에 포함되었을 경우 나타나는 착색현상을 방지하는 데 효과적일 수 있다는 결과를 확인하였다.

Keywords

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