Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Procedures and Items for Royal Wedding Ceremonies of Princesses on 『Hwasunongju-garyedeungrok(和順翁主嘉禮謄錄)』

『화순옹주가례등록(和順翁主嘉禮謄錄)』에 나타난 가례 절차와 물목 연구

  • Kim, Jiyeon (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 김지연 (이화여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2015.02.09
  • Accepted : 2015.04.07
  • Published : 2015.04.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This article studied the procedures and items used in royal princess weddings by examining "Garyedeungrok(嘉禮謄錄)" which describes Princess Hwasun(和順翁主, 1720-1758)'s wedding in 1732. This was the first wedding by a princess during King Yeongjo(英祖)'s reign. Preparation for the wedding was made based on the previous weddings of royal princesses, but it did not follow the old tradition. The wedding costs were cut down, and it was done in a simpler way than before. However, the simplification of elaborate wedding outfits were not part of this change as ceremonial robes such as No-ui(露衣), Jangsam(長衫) and Chopo(綃袍) were used without much alteration. The wedding ceremony of Princess Hwasun shows the transition process from the royal princess wedding ceremony traditions and rituals in the late 17th century to "Gukhonjeongrye", which emerged and became solidified as a new social norm in the 18th century. A legitimate royal princess and a de facto princess from King's concubine were hardly different when it came to their royal outfitting but the disparity in social status between the two was found in the materials used to make clothes for their respective husbands. Princess Hwasun's wedding procedure shown in "Garyedeungrok" is similar to that of "Gukjo-orye-ui(國朝五禮儀)": Napchae(納采), Nappye(納幣), Chinyeong(親迎), Dongroe(同牢), Hyeongugo(見舅姑), Hyeonsadang(見祠堂), and Seojohyeon(壻朝見). But "Garyedeungrok" deals with the procedures of Gantaek(揀擇), Buma-guanrye(駙馬冠禮), and Seonon(宣醞), which are not included in "Gukjo-orye-ui", and also with the process of preparation for wedding items and the information of related people. However, it is hard to learn about its specific shapes and features because it is often restricted to lists such as a list of clothing. Collecting new materials and an in-depth and succeeding study are required in the future.

Keywords

References

  1. Ahn, H. M. (2015). The production and supply system of wedding costumes of Princesses in the late Joseon Dynasty (Master's dissertation, Dankook University, Yong-in, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://lib.dankook.ac.kr/dcollection/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000182913
  2. Bumagantaekgi [부마간택기] (n.d.). in Jangseogak Royal Archives online. Retrieved from http://yoksa.aks.ac.kr/jsp/aa/VolumeList.jsp?mode=&page=1&fcs=&fcsd=&cf=&cd=&gb=&aa10up=kh2_je_a_vsu_81855_000&rowcount=10&listsort=%EC%84%9C%EB%AA%85
  3. Deongmi-garyesiilgi [뎡미가례시일긔] (1847).
  4. Gong-ongju-gilchalsi-naeha-mulpum [공옹주길찰시내하물품] (n.d.). in Jangseogak Royal Archives online. Retrieved from http://yoksa.aks.ac.kr/jsp/aa/VolumeList.jsp?mode=&page=1&fcs=&fcsd=&cf=&cd=&gb=&aa10up=kh2_je_a_vsu_81848_000&rowcount=10&listsort=%EC%84%9C%EB%AA%85
  5. Gukhonjeongrye [국혼정례] (1749).
  6. Gukjo-orye-ui [국조오례의] (1474).
  7. Gyeong-gukdaejeon [경국대전] (1484).
  8. Gyuhapchongseo [규합총서] (1809).
  9. Hwahyeop-ongjugaryedeungrok [화협옹주가례등록] (1743).
  10. Hwapyeong-ongjugaryedeungrok [화평옹주가례등록] (1738).
  11. Hwasunongju-garyedeungrok [화순옹주가례등록] (1732).
  12. Hwawanongjugaryedeungrok [화완옹주가례등록] (1749).
  13. Jinjonghyosunhugaryedogam-uigwe [진종효순후가례도감의궤] (1727).
  14. Joseonwangjosillok [조선왕조실록] (n.d.).
  15. Kim, A. R. (2013). Materialization of a Chinyoung procession illustration of princess Bok-On's wedding based on historical dress research (Master's dissertation, Dankook University, Yong-in, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://lib.dankook.ac.kr/dcollection/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000176966
  16. Kim, G. Y. (2013). The wedding costume of princess in the late Joseon Dynasty: focusing on Garyedeungnok (Master's dissertation, Dankook University, Yong-in, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://lib.dankook.ac.kr/dcollection/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000178157
  17. Kim, M. (2011). Princess Myeong-on's royal wedding ceremony in 1823. The Journal of Choson Dynasty History, 56, 125-160.
  18. Kim, S. (2009). A study of the royal lady's dress in late Joseon Dynasty according to the King's wedding process. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 59(3), 96-108.
  19. Kim, S. (2010). (A) study of ritual costumes and hairstyles used in the coming-of-age ceremony for royal court ladies in the late Joseon Dynasty. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 60(5), 51-70.
  20. Kim, Y. H. (1985). Wedding diary of Princess Hwasun [화순옹주 간택일기]. Local Culture Studies [향토연구], 3, 64-76.
  21. Kim, Y. H. (2007). Affections in time [세월 속의 유정]: Rediscovery of Hoseo regional materials [호서지역자료의 재발견]. Gongju, Republic of Korea: Chungnam Institute of History and Culture.
  22. Kim, Y. S. (1987). (A) study on court customs of the Joseon Dynasty [朝鮮朝宮中風俗硏究]. Seoul, Republic of Korea: Iljisa.
  23. Korea University Museum (ed.) (1990). Masterpiece of costumes [복식류명품도록]. Seoul, Republic of Korea: Korea University Museum.
  24. Kwon, H. A. (2009). (A) study on the history and the formative characteristics of Hwalot, (Doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://dcollection.ewha.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000051581
  25. Lee, E. (2012). Wedding costumes of Princess on Deokon-gongjugaryedeungrok. Korean Costumes, 30, 68-117.
  26. Lee, E. & Song, Mi (2012). Study on the costumes of military officer appeared on the stone statues standing at the noblemen's tomb during the Joseon Dynasty. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 15(2), 63-77.
  27. Lee, G. H. (2013). Contents and characteristics of materials regarding King Yeongjo's descendants in Janseogak : focusing on Princesses, Euso-seson and Princes [장서각 소장 영조 자손 관련 자료의 내용과 특징: 옹주 의소세손 왕손 관련 성책 자료를 중심으로]. Sourcebook of King Yeongjo's descendants [영조자손자료집], 4, Seongnam: the Academy of Korean Studies Press, 35-46.
  28. Lee, J. M. (2009). Procedures and garments for wedding ceremonies of prince on Yeoning-gungaryedeungrok (Master's dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://dcollection.ewha.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000054504
  29. Lee, M. (2015). On the marriage rituals of Princess Hwawan(和緩翁主) in 1749. Journal of Korean History [한국사학보], 58, 217-247.
  30. Lee, U. (2012). Procedures for wedding ceremonies of Princess on Deok-on-gongjugaryedeungrok. Korean Costumes, 30, 50-65.
  31. Myeong-an-gongjugaryedeurok [명안공주가례등록] (1680).
  32. Myeong-on-gongjubangsangjangryedeungrok [명온공주방상장례등록] (1833).
  33. Myeong-ongongjugaryedeungrok [명온공주가례등록] (1823).
  34. National Museum of Korea (Ed.) (2002). Genre painting in the Joseon Dynasty [조선시대 풍속화]. Seoul, Republic of Korea: National Museum of Korea.
  35. Ojuyeonmunjangjeonsango [오주연문장전산고] (19th Century).
  36. Ongjeongsipnyeon-imjasip-iwolgillyesijacho-gantaek-wisiilgi [옹정십년임자십이월 길례시자초간택위시일기; 화순옹주자가길례시일기] (1732).
  37. Sangbangjeongrye [상방정례] (1750-1751).
  38. Seonghosaseol [성호사설] (18th Centyry)
  39. Seugjeongwon-ilgi [승정원일기] (n.d.).
  40. Sim, S. G. (2013). Contents review of Princess wedding during King Yeongjo's reign [영조 대 옹주 가례의 내용 검토], Sourcebook of King Yeongjo's descendants [영조자손자료집], 4, Seongnam: the Academy of Korean Studies Press, 47-64.
  41. Sinjeungdong-guk-yeojiseungram [신증동국여지승람] (1530).
  42. So, J. Y. (annot.) (1975). Though I reach toward heavens: the original title is Sukchang-gungipgwol-ilgi [내 죽어 구천(九泉)에 이를지라도: 원제(原題) 숙창궁입궐일기(淑昌宮入闕日記)]. the Literary Ideology [문학사상], 31, 379-384.
  43. Suh, J. W. (2003). (A) comparative study on terminologies related to dress styles from the 14th to the 18th through Nogeoldae Editions (Master's dissertation. Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Republic of Korea). Retrieved from http://dcollection.ewha.ac.kr/jsp/common/DcLoOrgPer.jsp?sItemId=000000003625
  44. Suk-angongjugaryedeungrok [숙안공주가례등록] (1650).
  45. Sukmyeong-gongjugaryedeungrok [숙명공주가례등록] (1652).
  46. Sukjong-ingyeonghugaryedogamwangsejagaryesidocheonguigwe [숙종인경후가례도감 왕세자가례시도청의궤] (1671).
  47. Wangseja-garyedeungrok [왕세자가례등록] (1696).
  48. Wol-inseokbo [월인석보] (1459).
  49. Yeolha-ilgi [열하일기] (18th Century).
  50. Yeoning-gun-gwanryedeungrokchogeon [연잉군관례시등록초건] (1703-1707).
  51. Yeonryeong-gun-gwanryedeungrok [연령군관례등록] (1706).
  52. Yeonryeosilgisul [연려실기술] (19th Century).
  53. Yim, M. (2013). Comparative analysis on Garye of Princess, Ongju and Gunju in late Chosun Dynasty. the Onji Studies, 33, 283-317.

Cited by

  1. A Study on Procedure and Costume for a Royal Wedding Ceremony of Princes and Princesses in the 17th Century vol.66, pp.3, 2016, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2016.66.3.162
  2. A Study on the wedding Procedures and Costumes of Royal Grandchildren in the 18th Century on 『Euneongungwanhonryeuigwe』 vol.68, pp.6, 2018, https://doi.org/10.7233/jksc.2018.68.6.047
  3. A Study on the Falangcai Porcelain Introduced to Joseon during the 18thCentury vol.293, pp.None, 2015, https://doi.org/10.31065/ahak.293.293.201703.003