Korean journal of food and cookery science (한국식품조리과학회지)

Korean Society of Food and Cookery Science (한국식품조리과학회)
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A Study of Cultural Aspects of Kimchi in 「Banchandeungsok」

「반찬등속」에 기록된 김치의 식문화적 고찰

  • Lee, Sol (Dept. of Food and Nutrition, Chungbuk National University) ;
  • Ji, Myoung Soon (Dept.of Hotel Food Service & Culinary Art, Youngdong University) ;
  • Kim, Hyang Sook (Dept. of Food and Nutrition, Chungbuk National University)
  • 이솔 (충북대학교 식품영양학과) ;
  • 지명순 (영동대학교 호텔외식조리학과) ;
  • 김향숙 (충북대학교 식품영양학과)
  • Received : 2014.08.06
  • Accepted : 2014.08.18
  • Published : 2014.08.31
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Abstract

"Banchandeungsok" is recipe book written by a woman from a noble family who lived in Cheongju during the late 1900s. The book has 9 among 46 Kimchi recipes. In this study, the literatures from 1700 to 1900s, "Jeungbosanlimkyeongje", "Gyuhapchongseo", "Siuijeonseo", "Buinpilji", "Bogamrok", and "Josenmussangsinsikyorijebeob" were reviewed to examine the significance of "Banchandeungsok" Kimchi in the aspect of food culture. The results are as follows. "Banchandeungsok" Kimchies were considered as typical type of Kimchi of the late Joseon, and the main ingredients include Chinese cabbage, white radish, and cucumber. Salted-fish juice was not used for making Mukimchi, Bachujjanji, Jjanji in "Banchandeungsok", and gallic, ginger, green onion were used as main spice. Therefore, "Banchandeungsok" Kimchies belongs to Damjeo (light salting) type, which is characterized by light and clear flavor of present Cheongju Kimchi. While salted-fish juice was not used for "Banchandeungsok" Kimchies, yellow corbina was used in the most of "Banchandeungsok" Kimchies. Various forms of pepper were used in "Banchandeungsok" Kimchies - green pepper, peper leaf, minced, sliced shredded and powdered red pepper. Two kinds of Kkakdugi were introduced in "Banchandeungsok", which is the first record in the literatures. A typical type of stuffed cucumber pickles and unique type of cucumber Kimchi appeared in "Banchandeungsok".

"반찬등속"은 19세기말부터 20세기 초에 청주에 살았던 진주 강씨 문중의 며느리인 한 여성이 한글로 쓴 반가음식 책이다. 마흔 여섯 가지 조리법 중 9가지 김치를 포함하고 있다. 본 연구는 "반찬등속"에 기록된 김치의 식문화적 의의를 조명하기 위하여 1700년대부터 1900년대 전기까지 저술된 "증보산림경제", "규합총서", "시의전서", "부인필지", "보감록", "조선무쌍신식요리제법"을 "반찬등속"과 함께 비교 분석하였다. 김치의 주재료, 고추의 사용, 젓갈 사용, 부재료 사용, 양념 등에 관하여 문헌 고찰한 결과 다음과 같이 "반찬등속" 김치의 식문화적 특징을 알 수 있었다. "반찬등속" 김치는 배추, 무, 오이를 주재료로 하는 조선후기 김치의 전형을 보여준다. "반찬등속"의 무김치, 배추짠지, 짠지 등은 젓국을 사용하지 않으며, 부재료가 단순하고 양념으로는 마늘, 생강, 파를 주로 사용하였으며 다른 향신채는 거의 쓰지 않았다. 따라서 "반찬등속" 김치는 담저류에 속하고 오늘날 청주지역 김치의 특징인 담백하고 청량한 맛을 주는 김치의 원형이라고 생각된다. "반찬등속" 김치는 젓국을 사용하지는 않았으나 생조기를 사용하는 특징을 보였다. "반찬등속" 김치에 사용된 고추는 어린 고추, 고춧잎, 다진 고추, 채친 고추, 실고추, 고춧가루 등 다양하였다. 반찬등속은 깍두기 조리법이 기록된 최초의 문헌이다. 반찬등속에는 문헌상에 처음으로 등장하는 깍두기가 두 종류 소개되었다. "반찬등속"의 오이김치는 전형적인 오이소박이와 열무를 오이 속에 넣은 특별한 외이김치가 소개되었다.

Keywords

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