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Skin Whitening Effects of Angelica koreana and Cnidium monnieri Extracts

강활과 벌사상자 추출물의 피부 미백효과

  • Received : 2014.02.18
  • Accepted : 2014.04.20
  • Published : 2014.04.28

Abstract

The objective of this study is to estimate the inhibition of skin melanin formation by extract of Angelica koreana and Cnidium monnieri and the possibility of functional cosmetic materials through anti-irritation and stability test. The extract used in this experiment is White-$AK^{TM}$ and the INCI name is Osthole. The main component of White-$AK^{TM}$ was identified as coumarin and EC50 value was 2.7ppm by mouse melanoma B 16 cell test. White-$AK^{TM}$ showed inhibitory effects 100 times lower concentration than arbutin. The main mechanism for skin whitening effect thought to be inhibition of tyrosinase-related gene expression. The basic essence formulation of White-$AK^{TM}$ 5% solution applied to the skin showed the effect of relieving skin irritation. White-$AK^{TM}$ in an opaque container, under UV conditions for 4 weeks, and showed close to 100% recovery and 97% recovery under $50^{\circ}C$ for 4 weeks. Therefore, it is thought that White-$AK^{TM}$ which helps skin whitening, relieving skin irritation and stable in UV condition is able to be used as the functional component in the cosmetic formulation.

본 연구의 목적은 강활과 벌사상자 추출물에 의한 피부 멜라닌 형성 저해와 안정성과 자극성 시험을 통하여 기능성 화장품의 사용 물질 가능성을 평가하고자 하였다. 본 실험에 사용된 추출물은 White-$AK^{TM}$이고 INCI 명칭은 Osthole이다. White-$AK^{TM}$의 주성분은 쿠마린이고 EC50 값은 마우스 멜라노마 B16 세포 시험에서 2.7ppm이였다. White-$AK^{TM}$는 알부틴보다 100배 낮은 농도에서 저해 효과를 보였다. 미백 효과의 주 기작은 티로시나제-관련 유전자 발현을 저해하는 것으로 생각되었다. White-$AK^{TM}$ 5% 용액을 함유한 기본적인 에센스 처방을 피부에 적용 시 피부자극을 경감시켰다. White-$AK^{TM}$은 불투명한 용기에서 4주간 자외선 하에서 100%의 회수율을 보였고 $50^{\circ}C$에서 4주간 97%의 회수율을 보였다. 따라서 피부 미백효과와 자극성 경감효과가 있고 자외선 조건하에서 안정한 White-$AK^{TM}$은 화장품 처방에서 기능성 원료로 사용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

Keywords

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