Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

A Study on Frida Kahlo's Fashion Style in Contemporary Fashion

현대 패션에 나타난 프리다 칼로 패션 스타일에 관한 연구

  • 오은경 (세종대학교 패션디자인학과) ;
  • 곽태기 (세종대학교 패션디자인학과)
  • Received : 2011.03.09
  • Accepted : 2011.07.05
  • Published : 2011.07.31
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

Keywords

References

  1. 최호정 (2007), 2000년 이후 패션 디자인에 나타난 라틴 아메리카 문화, 복식, 57(4), p. 161.
  2. 권미정.박숙현 (2008), 프리다 칼로 회화에 나타난 멕시코 의상 연구, 한국디자인문화학회지, 14(4), p. 3.
  3. 김지희 (2007), 땅을 딛고 마야 아스텍 문명 위에 서다, 서울: 즐거운 상상, p. 20.
  4. Chloe Sayer (2000), Arts and Crafts of Mexico, London: Thames & Hudson, pp. 49-50.
  5. 라사라교육개발원 (2000), 세계 각국의 민속의상, 서울: (주)라사라패션정보, p. 56.
  6. Jane Bingham (2008), Costume around the world, Mexico, NY: Chelsea Clubhouse, p. 12.
  7. "Zapatec Huipil Oaxaca, La Tehuana", Flickr, 자료검색일 2010. 7. 15, http://www.flickr.com/photos/citlali/2529116014/in/set-72157601640801901
  8. Wendy Scalzo (2008), Mexican Popular Art, Atglen, PA: Schiffer Pub., p. 155.
  9. Chloe Sayer (2000), Arts and Crafts of Mexico, London: Thames & Hudson, p. 35.
  10. Wendy Scalzo (2008), Mexican Popular Art, Atglen, PA: Schiffer Pub., p. 141.
  11. Wendy Scalzo (2008), Mexican Popular Art, Atglen, PA: Schiffer Pub., p. 137.
  12. "Tehuana Costume Oaxaca", Flickr, 자료검색일 2010. 7. 15, http://www.flickr.com/photos/citlali/2361538654/in/set-72157601640801901
  13. Jane Bingham (2008), Costume around the world, Mexico, NY: Chelsea Clubhouse, pp. 12-13.
  14. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, p. 36.
  15. "Tehuantepec", Wikipedia, 자료검색일 2010. 7. 15, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehuantepec
  16. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, pp. 54-55.
  17. "La Tehuana", Flickr, 자료검색일 2010. 7. 15, http://www.flickr.com/photos/citlali/sets/72157601640801901
  18. "Skirt from Juchitan", Flickr, 자료검색일 2010. 5. 2, http://www.flickr.com
  19. "Frida Kahlo in US Vogue 1937", Stylehive, 자료검색일 2010. 7. 15, http://www.stylehive.com/
  20. Claudia Bauer (2005), Frida Kahlo, 정연진 역 (2007), 프리다 칼로, 서울: 예경, p. 115.
  21. Salomaon Grimberg (2004), Frida Kahlo, North Dighton: World Publications Group, p. 6.
  22. Raquel Tibol, Christina Burrus (2005), Frida Kahlo, Tate Publishing, p. 46.
  23. Claudia Bauer (2005), Frida Kahlo, 정연진 역 (2007), 프리다 칼로, 서울: 예경, p. 97.
  24. Schirmer/Mosel Munchen (2004), Frida Kahlo: The Painter and Her Work, New York: D.A.P., p. 54.
  25. 라사라교육개발원 (2000), 세계 각국의 민속의상, 서울: (주)라사라패션정보, p. 144.
  26. Jean-Marie Gustave Le Clezio (1993), 신성림 역 (2001), 프리다 칼로 & 디에고 리베라, 서울: 다빈치, p. 67.
  27. Raquel Tibol, Christina Burrus (2005), Frida Kahlo, Tate Publishing, p. 56.
  28. Raquel Tibol, Christina Burrus (2005), Frida Kahlo, Tate Publishing, p. 203.
  29. 오은경.곽태기 (2010), 프리다 칼로 회화 작품에 나타난 패션 컨셉 표현에 관한 연구, 복식, 60(7), p. 111.
  30. Helga Prignitz-Poda (2004), Frida Kahlo: the painter and her work, NY: Schirmer/Mosel Munchen, p. 58.
  31. Raquel Tibol, Christina Burrus (2005), Frida Kahlo, Tate Publishing, p. 12.
  32. Grimberg Salomon (1997), Frida Kahlo, North Dighton, MA: JG Press, p. 35.
  33. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, p. 32.
  34. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, pp. 92-93.
  35. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, p. 59.
  36. McDowell Colin (2000), Jean-Paul Gaultier, New York: Viking Studio, p. 142.
  37. "Tehuantepec", Flickr, 자료검색일 2010. 5. 2, http://www.flickr.com
  38. 라사라교육개발원 (2000), 세계 각국의 민속의상, 서울: (주)라사라패션정보, p. 143.
  39. "Kris Van Assche '08 S/S RTW", Style Collection Online, retrieved 2010, Aout 24, from http://www.krisvanassche.com
  40. Frida style concept, Vogue Germany (2010. 3), p. 20.
  41. 라사라교육개발원 (2000), 세계 각국의 민속의상, 서울: (주)라사라패션정보, p. 59.
  42. "Tao Kurihara", Virtual Sopon, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.virtualjapan.com
  43. "Tao '09 F/W RTW", Style Collection Online, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.style.com
  44. "Douglas Hannant 2010 Resort", Style Collection Online, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.style.com
  45. Frida Kahlo, Harper's Bazzar US (2001. 11), p. 238.
  46. McDowell Colin (2000), Jean-Paul Gaultier, New York: Viking Studio, p. 143.
  47. 라사라교육개발원 (2000), 세계 각국의 민속의상, 서울: (주)라사라패션정보, p. 141.
  48. Frida Kahlo, Harper's Bazzar US (2001. 11), p. 259.
  49. Wolfgang Hageney (1981), Costumes, Belvedere, p. 172.
  50. Linda Baumgarten.John Watson (2000), Costume Close-up, NY: Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, p. 24.
  51. "Givency '11 resort", Style Collection Online, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.style.com
  52. W.타타르키비츠 지음 (1958), 손효주 역 (2006), 미학의 기본 개념사, 서울: 미술문화, p. 229.
  53. "Armando Mafud '06 S/S", Guadalupe Pineda, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.guadalupepineda.com.mx/noticias_sarkozy2.html
  54. "Temperley London '05 F/W RTW", Style Collection Online, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.style.com
  55. 함연자 (2003), 현대 패션에 나타난 클래식 테일러드 수트의 미적 특성, 복식, 53(6), pp. 104-105.
  56. R.I.Davis (1994), Men's Garments 1830-1900, CA: Players Press. Inc., pp. 87-89.
  57. "Jean-Paul Gaultier '98 S/S RTW", Corbis, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.corbis.com
  58. Denis Rosenzweig (2007), Self Portrait in a Velvet Dress, San Francisco, CA: Chronicle Books, p. 62.
  59. "Givency '11 Resort", Style Collection Online, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.style.com
  60. "Kris Van Assche '08 S/S RTW", 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.krisvanassche.com
  61. "Louis Verdad '05 R/W RTW", Frida Kahlo, 자료검색일 2010. 8. 24, http://www.fridakahlo.it