Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry

The Korean Society for Applied Biological Chemistry (한국응용생명화학회)
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Characteristics of Cosmetic with Whitening Compounds from Phellodendron amurense

Phellodendron amurense의 미백물질을 이용한 화장품 특성

  • Cho, Young-Je (School of Food Science & Biotechnology, Food & Bio-Industry Research Institute, Kyungpook National University)
  • 조영제 (경북대학교 식품공학부, 식품생물산업연구소)
  • Received : 2011.01.28
  • Accepted : 2011.05.13
  • Published : 2011.06.30
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Abstract

The tyrosinase inhibitory activity of extracts from Phellodendron amurense was examined. Tyrosinase inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extracts was determined as 25% and the inhibitory activity of 60% ethanol extracts against melanin biosynthesis in melanoma cell (B16F10) was 31.2%. The purified inhibitory compounds against tyrosinase by Sephadex LH-20, MCI-gel CHP-20 column chromatography from P. amurense was confirmed as obacunone by $^1H$-NMR, $^{13}C$-NMR and Fast atom bombardment (FAB)-Mass spectrum. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities of purified obacunone was respectively as 35.1%. The safety of essence with tyrosinase inhibitory compounds from P. amurense was also assayed by various safety profiles. First, pH and viscosity change of essence for 60 days were not detected. The essence also showed the stability against temperature and light for 60 days. All these findings suggest that extracts from P. amurense has a great potential as a cosmeceutical ingredient, which has a potent whitening effect.

황백 추출물의 tyrosinase 억제효과를 검토한 결과 60% 에탄올추출물에서 25% 정도의 억제효과를 나타내었으며, melanoma세포(B16F10)에서의 멜라닌 생합성을 측정한 결과 31.2%의 저해활성을 나타내어 멜라닌생성억제효과가 있음을 알 수 있었다. 황백추출물에서 tyrosinase저해 활성물질을 정제하고자 Sephadex LH-20과 MCI-gel CHP-20 open column을 이용하여 용출한 결과 순수하게 정제된 활성물질을 얻을 수 있었으며, 정제물질을 구조 동정한 결과 미백물질은 obacunone으로 동정되었다. 정제된 obacunone은 35.1%의 저해활성을 나타내어 미백 활성이 비교적 우수함을 확인할 수 있었으며, 황백추출물로부터 분리한 미백물질을 이용한 미백 화장품을 제조하여 관능평가를 한 결과 우수한 평가를 받았다. 미백화장품의 안정성 검사를 위해 pH, 점도 및 복소탄성률의 변화를 측정하였으나 저장기간 60일 동안 큰 변화를 나타내지 않았다. 또한 온도변화, 인공 및 자연광에 의한 변화, 온도순환에 의한 변화 및 냉 해동순환(Freeze & Thaw cycling)에 따른 변화들 살펴본 결과 저장 60일 동안 모든 조건에서 상의 분리와 변색, 변취 등의 변화 없이 안정성을 나타내었다.

Keywords

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