Study on the Tensile Strength of Oxidative Permanent Dyed Hair

산화형 영구 염모제로 처리한 모발의 인장강도 특성에 관한 연구

  • 이귀영 (한서대학교 화학과 미용화학) ;
  • 장병수 (한서대학교 보건학부 피부미용학과)
  • Published : 2008.12.31

Abstract

In this study, we compared the stress and tensile strength of the hair treated with oxidative permanent dye with those of virgin hair. We investigated the fine structure of the hair section after the tensile test using scanning electron microscopy. The tensile strength of the virgin hair was measured as $14.66\;g/cm^2$, tensile energy was $108\;erg/cm^2$, and the maximum stress was 146.64g. Those of the dyed hair were $13.69\;g/cm^2$, $89.62\;erg/cm^2$ and 136.90 g, respectively. The differences in the tensile strength, the tensile energy and the maximum stress were $-0.97\;g/cm^2$, $-18.38\;erg/cm^2$, -9.74 g, respectively, which showed that the dyed hair had less elasticity and strength than the virgin hair. In the scanning electron microscopy investigation of the damaged hair after the tensile test, lift-off of the cuticle outer layer were shown in both virgin hair and dyed hair, which was more severe in the dyed hair than the virgin hair. Adjacent cuticular cells of the cuticle layer were separated by the destruction of intercellular membrane complex. The macrofibrils were exposed and separated from the cortex torn by tensile strength.

본 연구는 산화형 영구 염모제로 처리한 모발의 응력과 인장력을 건강모발과 비교하였으며, 인장시험 결과 절단된 모발의 미세구조를 주사전자현미경을 사용하여 관찰하였다. 염색모발의 인장강도는 $13.69\;g/cm^2$이었고 인장에너지는 $89.62\;erg/cm^2$로 나타났으며, 최고응력은 136.90g로 측정되었고 인장거리는 평균 11.34mm로 나타났다. 이와 같은 결과를 건강모발에 비교하였을 때 인장강도와 인장에너지, 최고응력이 각각 $0.97\;g/cm^2$, $18.38\;erg/cm^2$, 9.74 g 감소하였고 인장거리는 0.95 mm 짧게 나타났다. 결과적으로 염색모발이 건강모발보다 모발의 탄력성과 강도가 감소하는 것을 확인하였다. 건강모발과 염색모발의 인장강도 시험 후 절단되어 손상된 모발의 주사전자현미경 관찰에서 건강모발은 표면의 큐티클세포들이 들떠서 분리되어 있었으며, 염색모발의 큐티클세포들은 건강모발보다 더 심하게 분리되어 있었다. 염색모발에서 큐티클세포의 분리는 세포막사이 복합체의 파괴에 의해서 일어났다. 또한, 인장력에 의해서 찢어진 피질에는 거대 원섬유들이 노출되어 분리된 상태로 존재하였다.

Keywords

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