Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안해양공학회지)

Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers (한국해안·해양공학회)
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Applicability of the Korteweg-de Vries Equation for Description of the Statistics of Freak Waves

최극해파통계분석을 위한 Korteweg-de Vries식의 적용성 검토

  • Anna Kokorina (Laboratory of Hydrophysics and Nonlinear Acoustics, Institute of Applied Physics, and Applied Mathematics Department, Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University) ;
  • Efim Pelinovsky (Laboratory of Hydrophysics and Nonlinear Acoustics, Institute of Applied Physics, and Applied Mathematics Department, Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University)
  • Published : 2002.12.01
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Abstract

The requirements to the numerical model of wind-generated waves in shallow water are discussed in the framework of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. The weakness of nonlinearity and dispersion required for the Korteweg-de Vries equation applicability is considered for fully developed sea, non-stationary wind waves and swell, including some experimental data. We note for sufficient evaluation of the freak wave statistics it is necessary to consider more than about 10,000 waves in the wave record, and this leads to the limitation of the numerical domain and number of realizations. The numerical modelling of irregular water waves is made to demonstrate the possibility of effective evaluation of the statistical properties of freak waves with heights equal to 2-2.3 significant wave height.

본 논문에서는 Korteweg de Vries(이하 KdV)방정식의 골격내에서 천해의 풍파의 수치모형요구조건에 대한 토의를 수행하였다. KdV식을 실험자료를 포함하는 발달된 해상상태, 비정상적 풍파와 나블상황에 적용시의 비선형성과 분산성의 취약점을 논하였다. 최극해파통계의 충분한 평가를 위해서는 파고기록이 적어도 10.000개 정도의 해파를 다루어야 하는데 이는 숫적으로 다루기 힘들다. 따라서 유의파의 2-2.3배에 상응하는 최극해파의 통계적 특성을 효과적으로 평가할 수 있는 가능성을 제시하는 불규칙해파의 수치적 모형을 제시하였다.

Keywords

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