Dyeability of Fabrics in Lichen Dyebath

지의류로부터 제조한 염액의 직물에 대한 염색성

  • 이혜자 (교원대학교 가정교육학과) ;
  • 유혜자 (서원대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 이전숙 (전북대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 이득영 (전주효문여자중학교)
  • Published : 2000.02.01


Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with Parmelia tinctorium that is a kind of lichen. Dyeing solution was prepared by fermentation in aqueous ammonia solution. The effects of pH and temperature in dyebath on dyeability were investigated. The maximum K/S value of each dyed fabrics was showed in 480nm. Silk fabrics showed better dyeability than cotton. Silk fabrics dyed well in acidic or neutral dyebath at $80^\circ{C}$ and cotton fabrics in neutral dyebath at $50^\circ{C}$. Both of silk and cotton fabrics showed poor dyeability in basic dyebath because of colouring anionic groups in lichen. The Munsell values of dyed silk fabrics were appeared in R(red) range, and them of cotton fabrics in YR(yellow-red) range. Light fastnesses of dyed fabrics were as poor as 2 or 2-3 grades. Also, Laundering fastnesses of dyed silk fabrics were as poor as 2 grade and those of cotton fabrics were 3 or 3-4 grades. But dry-cleaning fastnesses of all dyed fabrics were good.