Statisticall Characteristics of Sea Waves at Mookho

묵호항의 파랑특성

The statatistical characteristics and spectra of sea waves at Mookho were analysed by several statistical methods. As the results, the following conclusions are obtained: 1. Values of surface elevation of sea wave are better fitted to Gram Charlier distribution than Gaussian distribution. This proves that sea waves have not only characters of irregularity but also non-linearity. 2. Distribution of maxima of surface elevation practically follows the distribution of Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins, also spectral width parameter is found to be increased with the increase of root mean square of surface elevation. 3. Sea wave may have spectrum of broad frequency band, however distributions of wave heights and periods follow the Rayleigh distribution which is derived from the assumption of narrow frequency band. 4. Ratios among mean wave heights from observed data show good agreements with theoretical values from Rayleigh distribution. 5. Spectral density and spectral width parameter increase with increase of wind velocity. And wave period at optimum band gas higher value than significant wave period by about 10 percent.